grannyknot

You should do alright, all of your mods are desirable and very well done. glwts

@Electrolabs, Alex, is that you? Just trying to save you from making all the mistakes that I have made.

Mark, I have never seen anyone do powder coat in sections with applied heat the way you do but seems like you have it down to a science, it's very impressive, you could powder coat the entire car with your technique. The "paint" would be tough as nails.

Did you use EvapoRust or some kind of acid? In any case you need a new one, I'll have a look through my stuff, I might have one.

I use to worry about when I first put it up and I'd be out there after every snow fall clearing it but one winter I was layed up with an injury and there was over a foot of hard heavy snow on that tent and it was just fine. The fabric is 20 mils thick and is stretched with 10-12 built in cargo straps and ratchets so the skin is a stressed member over the frame. It wasn't cheap but it's 10 yrs old now and going strong.

But the short driving season means more time to work on them, I don't work out there in the winter, that's strictly storage.

It's going to be a while before I can really get going on this one but I can work on all the stuff in the boxes in between other stuff. She arrived this morning just after a big dump of snow, my plow guy was late so had to shovel a path to the storage tent. the last pic is showing how low some PO cut the springs, the fender lip is digging into the tire and the car is stripped of all weight.

Without bushings in them they are exactly same, easier to produce one part than two, same goes for the rear control arms.

I'm sure you know but a lot of us have found it's best not to cut out all the rust at once, it makes the body flexy and sag if you're not careful. Better to repair the P/S floor first then onto the D/S floor pan then the dog legs and so on. That is certainly true for the 240z's and maybe not so much for the ZX's because they are a little stronger but just thought I would mention it, as dutchcarguy says, you don't want to weld in permanent errors.

Well clean as least, quick not so much, a few projects and obligations have to finished first but I'm not bitching, too much to be thankful for.

It does look solid, engine bay is silver, Nature abhors a vacuum and that car sized void in my storage area has been sucking pretty hard, look what it hoovered up, a 1973 510, body done and painted this last summer, all glass, all chrome, most of the interior and comes with a SR20DET and matching 5spd trans. The guy I bought it off put 7 yrs into it but realized he would never finish it, I know I certainly will. Boxes and boxes of stuff to go through, can't wait

Found this list on 510realm today, didn't take note of who posted it and can't find them now. Good info,

Thanks guys, I found a fastener list for 510's on the 510realm so I'll put that in the proper forum.

Are you referring to either of these links? I'm not seeing any info on fasteners. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/905795/Datsun-240z-S30-Series.html?page=40#manual http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

I have a buddy who is restoring a 72/240, he bought the car as a shell and the rest of it was in boxes, he thinks 30-40% of the fasteners are gone and he is trying to figure out what is missing. I can help him some but he wants to have enough of each type of fastener on hand, does anyone know of some kind a list that would state how many of each size is needed to complete the car? Thanks, Chris

No I haven't but Nissan made their own fenders, must be a re pop. What is the fit like?

I remember reading so where that the olive green on the horns, seat runners and heater fan motor was a kind of zinc plating, do you know if that is true?

That's interesting, play sand is beach sand and is rounded from the wave action, sharp sand is used for cement and when sifted is used for blasting. Looks like you found the technique to make it work.

I think that was Patcon, so how are you blasting those thin panels and what are you using, glass beads?

So one or more of the valves were sticking before the engine warmed up completely, if they were sticking closed that could indicate a failed or lazy lifter, too tight valve guide or misaligned guide, or a burr. If sticking open that points to too tight vale guide or misaligned guide or a burr. That slap you heard could have been the piston hitting the valve and closing it. If the mechanic over reamed the guides the valves could be binding because of too much slop or misalignment, if he knurled the guides they could just be too tight because he didn't ream enough and as the engine warms up they expand and allow easier movement, it's called morning sickness. Now it's drinking oil, anyway I look at it you still have to pull the head, examine and measure those guides.

After soaking the whole thing in hot water I tried to get some dish washing liquid between the rubber and motor, see if you can get a small thin screw driver or awl between them all the way around. The ones I've worked on had a layer of corroded aluminum that sticks to the rubber.

Maybe they are referring to this version, this is what I understand to be the newest repop of the original like @jfa.series1 has on his car only this one has the rectangular window/face plate on the P/S. It also does not cover the highest hole for the badging.

Nice little treasure trove.

I've sold a Zcar through ebay and BaT and have advertised on Hemmings, with Hemmings I got lots of interest but no sale after a month then I put the car on BaT and it was sold by the end of the week at my asking price. I got a good price on ebay but difficulty with the buyer and ebay was of no help there, once the auction is done and the fees paid ebay doesn't care about you. BaT on the other hand will help you every step of the way and follow up to make sure all goes smoothly after the auction, however BaT will want a low reserve which can be unnerving. If your car is a rust free and fairly low in the VIN numbers then you should get the best market value on BaT, the lack of the 4spd trans although inconvenient shouldn't affect your price too much. As mentioned above, gather as much documentation as you can as you can. Please post some photos, lots of experienced guys here.

@theguppies, I know the glove box door is made of plastic but do you think there is anyway to recover it so it matches the dash?