grannyknot

Besides it gives you the opportunity to turn those caps around.

I think you really need to find the clearance on the thrust bearing and measure properly so that it is repeatable, so you're getting consistent reading on both sides using the long screwdriver to pry.

Ideally it would be very near where you live so you could look it over and so I could come for a visit. Honestly I have enough projects going to keep me occupied until next winter but there is a car size void in my storage area that will fill up with junk if I don't get another Z in there. Basically I'm looking for 70-78 Z without too much rust but that needs a complete resto, how about you send Lily up to me and I'll have her back to you before spring driving season.

@inline6, you must have some previous experience doing body work, if not then you're a natural. So did you cut out the strip of floor pan from inside the cab that is just above the rail to get access to the rails?

@dmuzial, are you Auto70 on BaT? If so it sounded like you and the seller were pretty close on price, nice to see it end up with someone on this site. I'm in the fresh rubber bushing camp as well, the difference between the old rubber and new is quite surprising and firmer than you might think. You can never post too many pics on this forum, following other members build threads is always pleasure. I just completed a 77/280z project myself and I'm looking for another one, great cars. You might might find a few 77 specific things of interest here,

...and then charge them money for it and tell them it's all fixed! Unbelievable.

I am but there is not a lot being advertised right now except $4k rust buckets or $26k finished cars, neither of which are much fun. Maybe in the spring.

And there she goes, off to the desert.

They are complete hacks, find a another mechanic. Better yet learn to diy.

So I guess you're going to use poly bushings in the mustache bar?

That is hilarious, now turn him into a zombie with one foot pedaling and the other one missing or dragging on the ground. The possibilities are endless, how much weight can the motor handle?

$7,300 isn't going to get you a running car that you can drive but $4,300 is about as cheap as you will ever see for a Z these days. I say buy it and think of it as a long term project, as money comes available do some work on it. It doesn't look too bad from the pics but he has not shown any of the problem possible problem areas. The carbs are round top SU's so are pretty easy to work on. At a minimum if you find that it is beyond your skills you can sell it and get your money back or even make some money on it.

For sure, PM your mailing address and full name and I'll get it off to you this weekend.

If your pan has never been off before you could have some nice thick paste like goo at the bottom that is a buggar to get out, best method I have found is 4-5 oz of gasoline and keep stirring until it is all moving.

Eastwoods is just phosphoric acid and it works well for light or thin rust but not for the heavy rust you have under the battery tray. Without removing the tray you will never stop that rust that is active between the layers. You could get access from inside the P/S wheel well and drill out the spot welds from there without affecting the look of the spot welds facing in to the engine bay then pull the tray up enough to get the sand blast nozzle in there.

Sure, if done improperly or too much is taken off, it's the kind of job you want the oldest guy in the shop to do and know that he does it often.

Same as @SoCalJim, heat the rubber with a hair dryer or hot water and remove from the reservoir then heat again and remove the pump and install new pump.

No I didn't modify it in any way, the only real flaw is the broken top for one of the screws.

Very exciting!!! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-datsun-2000-roadster-27/ $65,000

You can separate the black plastic housing and remove the chromed vent, then I use a child's toothbrush and a strong cleaner to get as much of the dirt off as possible. If the chrome is still in good condition I use 0000 steel wool to do the rest of the cleaning, if the the chrome is spotty and worn off in places then I use chrome polish and a small screw driver wrapped in cotton to apply and buff or Qtips.

To really get the rust under the battery tray you have to drill out the spot welds on that large support that curves down to the rail, there is rust under it and it will spread right back after you paint it. You don't have to use sand, there is copper slag that is quite aggressive, also walnut shells.

@Pomorza, I tried to adapt a 280 cover to fit a 240 and it looks terrible so I have bought the proper cover. I don't think I had to modify the lower cover at all but I'll check. You are welcome to the 280 lower cover which I think is in very good condition, you pay the postage and I'll ship it to you.

Yes and no more rusty rockers either!

Hmmmmm, I wonder where you found the inspiration for that idea?

I hadn't noticed that but I guess when you are auctioning a clean, desirable car there is really no need for a reserve, you know it is going to sell for a good price.