grannyknot

I haven't seen that one before, in the last photo, who's that old man driving it, looks like my Dad.

What Dave WM said, just looks like the cam is 1/4" too far back, as long as the cam is all lubed up you should be able to tap the back of the cam with a rubber mallet. Or you could install the cam gear and pull the cam forward with the cam bolt, just be sure the locating pin also lines up.

These guys make a very nice leather set, https://interior-innovations.com/product/datsun-240z260z-genuine-leather-w-diamond-stitching-tunnel-strut-tower-covers/ I have it in my car, very nice fit, smells great.

On the A pillars there are a number of layers inside, some lay flat against one another, some attach in a corner and go diagonally across the pillar. It can be one of the worst places on these cars to repair, if you suspect there is a lot of rust in there you'll have to cutout the flat section facing into the door, media blast everything in there and weld back new metal inside the pillar working your way out to the final layer. By the time you are done you will be really good at it

Much more fun!

The 280 just sold for $22,000 on BaT and now it is going to Dubai, http://www.tominiclassics.com/ I made my parts and materials cost back and a little bit for my labour, I'm happy boy. Shopping list, another Z, bigger compressor, more lights in the shop, a new Tig welder?, maybe a spot welder too, ...

Looks like fun, what's your best time in the 1/4?

A sardine can key in the wall socket, my hand was black but I lived they tell me.

I'm a bit out of my depth but those switches are designed for AC, but yes they will probably work, can't see why they wouldn't. Is this cut off switch to turn off power to the fuel pump for anti-theft reasons like a hidden switch?

It can be done by yourself but much easier with a second person, you do one side at a time, loosen all four bolts holding the hinge to the body, have someone push down on the closed hood in the front corner and tighten the three bolts that you can get to and get the fourth later, then the other side the same. Also, you need to remove the grill.

Duffy, I love these fuel lines, very clean and professional. Am I right to assume that you are making them up as needed? What kind of tools do you need to make them? Really enjoying this build, to my eye every modification is spot on.

While there are so many good minds talking about this subject I would like to ask a question about a timing fact/myth I've heard many times. Starting with a new chain, by deliberately advancing the cam gear to #2 or #3 you can gain more low down torque. True or false? Bruce, this is one of those great lines that should be permanently fixed to bottom of each post regardless of whether you are right or wrong

Sometimes the tie rods are right in the way too.

I'm pretty sure that strip is melt welded to the vinyl so no removing it without harming both the strip and the vinyl. You could carefully mask it off with automotive masking tape or spray over top. What product are you using to change the colour? A lot of members here have had good results with SEM flexible vinyl paint, good quality stuff.

That's funny, that is my photo back from when I had a look at making shock mounts.

If you have tried to remove it and it just spins then yes you have to remove the strut, hopefully it is the nut that is stripped and not the shock absorber threads. Wait a minute, it might not be stripped, there is a possibility the shock strut is spinning with the nut in which case you need to find a way to hold the shock strut and prevent it from spinning so the nut can be screwed down.

The vents came painted black and I wrongly assumed that was the stock colour, see what I mean about lack of patience to do the research.

You probably will have a hard finding the original hardware but you can make it or adapt from something that is already made, $100 is a good deal.

Great question, I'm not sure the amount of money spent on the car makes any difference, in the case of your 280zx it can never be a new car if it is a restoration with a VIN from 1979. That is if you are going for stock original and trying to be true to the original version. Now if you are radically modifying as Wheee is suggesting then all bets are off. Seriously modified cars may be based on an old car but they are not trying to recreate or restore to original and in that case the ODO's mileage only reflects the mileage on the ODO.

Here is a little inspiration, https://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm

Well she is up on BaT, here's hoping they don't eat me alive. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-31/

http://www.jpfiberglass.net/datsun-240z-260z-280z.html

That looks pretty decent, interesting colour, has been mechanically kept up.

No, they're just called Zeds.

I have never seen a photo of that stamp on the jack point on the front x member before.