grannyknot

After every hurricane, flood.or wildfire they build every thing back to the same standards as before and wonder why it gets destroyed again the next time. Insanity.

A 71 with non matching engine that needs fairly extensive rust repair, floor pans, rear deck lid very, probable doglegs, battery tray. If you don't mind buying a project and he is willing to knock a few thousand off then it could be a good deal. If you do the work yourself you could get away with putting another $12-15,000 to bring it up to be a very nice reliable driver. The non matching engine is really going to bite you when you try and sell it. Just my opinion, I love buying Z's like this one, the amount repair is do-able, this car would also be a good candidate for an engine swap.

An A/C drain perhaps or a modification by a PO? Doesn't look familiar.

You could also go with something like these, great while you are on the road and you can pull them off for car shows.

Whoa. I hope you're not blaming yourself for that, recreating those body lines is very challenging for sure but he had a lot of other stuff going on in his life that lead to his suicide.

Could be either but it looks from your photo that they may have been cut off by a po. After you have spliced in your cutoff with proper connectors have a look at the rest of the wires in that section, eliminating as many of those crimp connectors as possible is always good policy.

Sorry brother, didn't mean to criticize your work, what do I know? I just pictured a small pulley right behind the throttle shaft linkage that would turn the cable 90 degrees and run it along the bottom lip of the valve cover and another pulley on the fire wall to take it to the bell crank. I think @wheee! did something similar recently, it looked really clean.

Inside the right hand old storage bin there is a rubber boot in the hole in the floor pan, you can just see it through the drainage hole for the storage bin on the bulkhead, that is where Nissan had the the fuel pump leads heading out to the pump. Looks like someone has been doing some creative wiring in that area. Get under the car and have a look at the leads coming from the pump.

Fantastic, what a beautiful setup, looks well laid out. Will you be using filters on the stacks? How soon before to spring for those beautiful basket of snakes headers he's selling now? You know the only thing that grabs my eye is the throttle cable arching over the valve cover, they have handled it well on the firewall but it wouldn't take much to come up with a more discreet way of routing that cable near the TB's. It might just be me, stuff like that just begs for a little tweak. Looking forward to hearing when you're done.

^ That's good advice, get it on the road and enjoy it a bit then start tearing into different systems one at a time.

It's gone now.

Although you will quite often see Z cars where that line disappears over the rear wheel arch from rust repairs done on the wheel arch lip. I got my car back from the painters a couple years back and the bodyline had been mudded over at the rear arches, had to ask the same question.

Probably something like mine, works okay now but you really shouldn't have to repair it before you install it, I wish now I had kept my type 1 fiberglass air dam.

Every time I take apart an L engine there are always a couple of head bolts that are caked in thick old sludgy oil so I assumed that it was protruding into oil gallery.

Don't force it! Some of those of the head bolt holes enter the oil gallery if I remember right, or maybe it is the coolant passage. In any case it is normal.

Then there's the Brazilian Euro, despite the crude cable mount it worked well.

Looks great, that's a lot of progress and it looks familiar, keep at it.

I think the age age range was actually 13-19 yrs.

Yes, but his customers and many other bidders want to spend too much, they want the best, they want the price to hurt a bit, they are not really looking for a "deal". It's all about preceived quality and all of us succumb to it at some point it's just these guys have deeper pockets than you and me. It's like a self sustaining bubble that bursts occasionally, sort of like the housing market. But hey, it's their money and god bless'em.

Well my 1977 280z goes live on BaT in about 2 weeks, so far they are really easy to work with.

That head bolt must be removed, otherwise you are just wasting your time.

I guess I'm the one with a different console.

Good for another 45 yrs

Lid on the console? My early 77/280z does not have that, maybe you have an aftermarket arm rest? I believe the console and interior panels are made of ABS. ABS glue and JB Weld work well on them, if the crack is long then a bandage of fiberglass cloth embedded into the JB Weld gives it some strength.

I don't know Cliff, that's going to make you sound... respectable. Do you think you can pull it off?