grannyknot

Thanks gents, got it all to fit.

It won't hurt, depending on the car sometimes a bit of that area is visible. Besides, if you don't paint, it will show and you'll be kicking yourself.

Don't forget the all important flour sieve.

I should have taken photos, can anyone tell me if this routing is correct? Thanks

Welcome to the forum, I'm interested why you used Pine-sol, was it just what you had on hand or is it good for other things? The fact that the MC was seized means after you get it cleaned up it probably won't work for you anyway, they use to sell a rebuild kit but the new MC are still pretty inexpensive so it's still easier and safer to grab a new one. Same goes for the wheel cylinders, the clutch MC and slave cylinder.

Love the green one with the stripe, BBS wheels?

You lucky dog, someone else does all the hard, messy and boring work and you get to do the fun stuff! I think there are a few members sort of near you but there is also hundreds of thousands of pics in the archives of every part of these cars. Make sure you let your Dad take it for a spin shes done.

Exactly what I was trying to say but you said it with more eloquence

I posted the pic of my #305 code roof to illustrate how easily this colour can change it's appearance depending on the available light level when the pic was taken, from my experience the colour of the OP's exterior and ash tray cup could easily match. Now that the OP has posted a pic of the trans tunnel we can all see that they do match. To me it shows no such thing, what I see is virtually no miles but 43 years sitting. @brunodoggy, I don't know what you paid but you got a great deal regardless, take lots of pics.

Here is a shot of brand new #305 paint, if I didn't tell you that it is the exact same colour as the OP's car, what colour would you say it is? Here is a shot of a 280z under carriage with 106,000 miles,

Ahh, not white just dust, makes sense.

Once you sort out 12 good valves are you going to get the valve seats re cut?

Your photo in #11 shows a white air snorkel, I'm pretty sure they were made out of black plastic and left plain, curiouser and curiouser.

I say clean it up and drive it, you'll love it. There is a whole procedure to go through before even turn the engine over much less start it, even though the car has no miles there is a good chance you'll find rust in the gas tank so that means cleaning the entire fuel system. That is an amazing find, keep your camera clicking.

Have you been able to test the brakes yet, how are they working?

Dry gaskets only except on coolant passages, sometimes the mating surfaces are pitted.

And Facebook scoops up everything and tucks it all away.

After my oversight I left the engine alone for a while and started doing other stuff, today I started the engine, brought the timing down to 10 degrees advance by adjusting the distibutor. Idle is now 750 rpm with the idle screw turned out 2.5 turns ( I'm sure I read somewhere that it should be turned out 6 full turns) Does that sound about right for where the idle should be? The 1st pic is where the distributor is sitting now at 10 degrees, 2nd is warm oil pressure, pretty sure that is just those low reading sending units but I think I might install a modern sensor and gauge to find out. The temp gauge never gets higher than this.

Perfect, is that a heated windshield we're seeing? I have lost track of how many cars you have.

Your auction company is charging a 20% buyers premium so that really means you will be paying for that with lower bid offers. The car is in wonderful condition and the prices are still climbing. Good luck.

Are you saying the seal is stopping the hub from fully seating? If you can find something around your shop the same size of the steel outer ring of the seal you can use that to tap the seal in farther, even the old seal will work.

So who is volunteering to take their backpack camera and be the roving reporter for the rest of us poor saps who can't make it?

So I think you are talking to me, please excuse the lousy cutting surface, I wasn't going for looks just trying to get it made as fast as possible. Outside of male and female 77mm OD, male half 51mm by 8mm tall, female half 54mm ID, 9mm deep. The round blank is 20 ga and should have an OD of 95mm. Make sure you grease both sides, I just put the center threaded rod to keep the blank centered. You use a press or a 4lb mallet to hammer it into shape. The cup is just there to keep the bottom of the rubber bushing from squishing out. The hole in the T/C mount has to be about 3mm wider than the metal sleeve that ZH is talking about here, the T/C rod has to toggle in the mount when the suspension goes to extremes up or down. Hope this helps,

I hear you.