grannyknot

I did find them, I didn't store them properly and they are rusted solid but @zKars probably has a few. He's my go to guy for anything 240z.

Absolutely, but I would add that the power and ground wires need to be at least 12ga

That's great info, so are you saying that there is enough there space in the headlight bowl so you don't have to cut a hole in the back?

It's like that old George Carlin joke, "Studies have found that saliva causes cancer, but only if swallowed in small amounts over a long period of time."

Just picked up a new flasher for the signals on the 280z and here is another one of these warnings, they seem to be everywhere. So how do I get cancer and reproductive harm from this little flasher? I think I would have to grind it up to a fine powder and snort it.

If you are going to replace the T/C bracket with another from a donor then of course you need to remove it from the rail but if you are cutting out the rust and welding in new plate then it would be best to leave the bracket on the car, much less chance of screwing things up.

If you need 6 point restraint and a roll bar you also need a proper seat, something with bolsters to keep you in place. The stocks are a one person bench.

So is everything else, fine work. I predict jayhawk will be coming home from Branson with some awards.

Finally got the 240z out for a car show this morning and and found a rodents nest behind the seat in the middle of the car towel. I can't think of any other entrance to the car except the fresh air vents on either side of the radiator and they are covered with 12mm sq. chicken wire, that's smaller than a sugar cube. Where could the little buggar be getting in?

Mine weren't as bad as yours so I just removed the old bushing cups and made new ones. If you want to save that mount you're going to have to cut out that rusty hole and weld in some new plate then re drill the hole, I think it is about 8-9 gauge on that tension rod mount.

That is the lead weld that holds the roof to the rear quarter panels or sails. They used lead so the joint could flex a bit and still stay smooth. Most Z's don't have a problem with the joint cracking but sometimes, if the car has been thrashed on the track and the body has been over stressed you will see cracks forming at that seam, also, sometimes water gets to the lead, it oxidises/expands and a crack forms. The D/S looks okay it just needed a bit more smoothing before it was painted, the P/S looks like the water has gotten to it. The only way to fix it is take that area down to bare metal and dig out all the punky lead, hopefully the water hasn't gotten to the steel yet.

Gottcha, you could make something that would do the same job out of a couple pieces of heater hose cut down the length so they can slip over the cable tubing and then a hose clamp on either side to keep it in place, not pretty but would work while you hunt for the real thing.

I'm not sure if they are available any more but muffler shops still use that kind of material for isolating pipes from the frame, you could get a 6" strip and modify it to work, a hack saw and drill are the only kinds of tools that work on that stuff.

That is really strange, quite often when you empty the diff there will be be far less than a litre because over the years it splashes out of the plastic breather cap on the top of the cover but not being able to get that full litre in is pretty weird I think. The only way you are going to solve it is to unbolt the cover and have a look, The paper gaskets are cheap and still available but something like Permatex gasket maker work just as well. Hard to believe casting irregularities could take up half a litre of space. That's because you have that gorgeous finned cover with all the extra oil capacity.

@gwri8, thanks, yes I see it now in my pre tear down pics, it mounts on the fiberboard kick panel. At the factory I guess, it doesn't look like a home made paint job, can't rub it off.

YES, thank you, it protects the silver painted rubber hose, one down one to go.

Welcome to the forum and a big thanks for any tech drawings you share with the rest of the members. That kind of resource is priceless.

It needs replacing, unless the car has been restored at some time it will be worn.

The engine is running now and the box of parts to reinstall is getting close to empty but I have a couple parts I can't find a home for. The heat shield, somewhere in the engine bay but can't figure where and the black flangy thing I think goes in the driver's or passenger's foot well. Any ideas? Also finished up installing all the glass today.

I use the lube from Precision, this is the third car I have used it on and still have more than half left, another benefit of the monofiliment is with a bit of pressure you can just roll it into the chanel , just popped in the rear glass the this afternoon and will do the windshield tomorrow.

I beg your pardon, I'm not that old.

The 5 mile an hour bumper shock might not help much but the bumpers are strong and tied in well to the subframe so yeah, they offer some protection.

That looks like a well done 260 with lots of desirable upgrades.

yeah, funny now.

Try using string trimmer line, thin, strong and very slippery, no torn rubber.