grannyknot

Ok now you're showing off very very nice, looking really sharp.

Those look like the first version of the g-Force offset bushings, the later version has a Delrin bushing that keeps the aluminum from getting chewed up.

I would go straight to having a competent welder MIG a nut on to what is left of that stud, failed attempts with vice grips can chew up what is left of the stud pretty quickly.

I don't think it's like that anymore, at least I haven't seen that behavior in a while. I don't read all of the the threads but I think those guys may have moved on. Even Tony's a little calmer these days. And yes, Derek's new head is going to be amazing.

I haven't put it on an alignment rack yet I just did the toe in with jack stands and string and measured out from the rim of the wheel. There is so little that is adjustable I didn't think I would need it, but I'll take it to a real shop now and get some numbers.

Wow, I paid the same amount to Silvermine for my 15/16" and had to use the old yellowed reservoirs.

So how is this for a rookie move? No wonder the car is a little squirrely at high speed! Can't find anyone else to take the blame But driving with lower control arms reversed feels pretty normal up until about 60 mph then it just gets worst from there all the way up. I thought the problem was that I needed more downforce but it didn't help much when I added some, then I started looking at alignment again and was getting ready to install the g-force off set bushing kit when I noticed my rookie mistake. So I reversed the LCA's and installed the rear spoiler and now I can drive fast again and not smell the exhaust.

It's pretty gross to think about it but that sticky stuff is basically years of dead skin and oil

Tony D has rubbed many the wrong way.

Dam, I could have sent it along in the same boxSenility is creeping up.

Selling? Pretty sure I gave it to you, but you can send money if you like

Try 0000 fine steel wool, the cunifer tube will come up like a mirror.

Well you know I have a bad habit of putting For Sale signs on projects once they are finished because after all, they are done, nothing else to fiddle with. I'm not done with it yet but I know sooner or later some other project will grab my eye. Actually there is a young guy in the next town over who has started restoration on a 72 240z, so far I go over every Sunday and give him a hand with the fun stuff and he spends the next week dismantling and scraping and getting dirty, it's working out very well, kinda like being a Grandparent. Zfest was down on attendance today as rain was forecast but there was a total of 112 Z cars and about 22-24 of those were S30's

Looks like you found a good one, interesting mount between the the front of the diff and the cross member, is that custom or maybe from a later model? It appears to be solid.

Okay, here is what I'm taking to Zfest, spent the past couple of days compound buffing wet sanding scratches out of it and installing the bumpers. There is still a few things to do but there will only be a few guys there at the show that will notice.

Beautiful work

fast road course! Those hay bales wrap around the light standards are a bit of a joke.

The nuts behind the rear valance are welded to the sub frame, the front mounting points are also the bumper mounts which are very close to the sub frame also the early cars are quite light, about 550lbs fully stripped.

The 3 Z's I have torn down 1970-72 all had the tapered mustache bar stud like in this pic but I have been helping a guy a few miles from me with his 72 Z and the M/B stud on his is stepped, 2-3 steps, I'll take a pic next time I'm there.

Looks very restorable and nice blue vinyl too.

My name was 87M6chris back then, granny is the neutral, multi forum name

The hacksaw methods only drawback is it is very hard to keep the blade level and easy to cut into the control arm metal. After you get the cut fairly deep you take a small sharp chisel and start peeling the sleeve in toward the center, then when the sleeve is knocked out clean up any nicks or cuts with a round file and press in the new bushing in. Just remember that the two control arms have to be mirror images of each other and not identical, I'm sure I'm not the only guy who had to go buy a third bushing after screwing it up

I don't know for sure what his reasons were, maybe he doesn't like high beams that are brighter than stock. But it is a great site with lots of good info.

If anyone is ordering H4 bulbs from Daniel Stern don't make the mistake of trying to order a brighter bulb from him, I tried to order a couple of 80/55 and I was cut off like that, "No more soup for you!" Even though I had ordered lots of stuff from him before he never replied to me again. You've been warned

Are you going to burn out the rubber and hacksaw the outer sleeve or press the old bushing out?