grannyknot

I think you would be much better off using the new mounts, the age hardened 50 year old rubber compound isn't going to be doing much dampening of vibration and will tear away from the mounting plates if it hasn't already.

I've been working on another project the last 2 months but that is done now and back on to Dave's 240 Finally got the head back from the machinist so assembled the engine today, the larger L28 valves will let it breathe easier. I'll wrap it up now and store it under the bench now until the spring. Next up get the body into the shop.

Horns are working great now, thanks. MVI_2398.MP4

Steve, I've done the continuity test, 1.6 ohms between the positive tab and the far side of the contact. The only thing I haven't done is install the thin paper gaskets. MVI_2384.MP4

Will be looking forward to your report when you get the pads bedded in, I've heard that kit gives remarkable braking.

Finished replacing the front marker lamps and front signals with LED bulbs, that circuit is now the same temp. as the rest of them, at least as far as my finger can tell. Thank you gentlemen.

With 3 coats you have lots of thickness to "guild the lily" if you felt like it, given the smoothness of the surface you have, you could start blocking with 1500 grit and work down to 3000, then a final cut/buff. The result would sharpen the edges of the reflection to a true mirror image. If you ever got the showcar/trailer queen bug that would be the next step. Personally I don't think I would want to risk it if the car was mine, it is already many times better than anything Nissan ever put out. Looking forward to the fully assembled photos!

Did they tell you how many coats of clear they laid down?

You must be a happy, you picked the right shop, beautiful.

Steve, I want a copy of every site on your favourites list, it must be a thing to behold. You consistently come up gems that I've never seen before, and once seen I have to have it. Are you getting a commission from Amazon?😁

Beautiful, I love the adjustable flasher unit.

I had one 240 where I had to dremel out the adjustment holes on the hinges so they would sit low enough when being tightened down.

This. If your hinges are kind of worn, pushing down on the front of the hood while tightening is the only way to fix that problem.

I replaced every bulb in the back half of the car with LED today, $180.00 😵, the fuse holder was too hot to touch yesterday, after the new bulbs went in it was slightly warm and consistently warm over a 5 min period, heading in the right direction. Will replace the front bulbs tomorrow, I cleaned out my local NAPA so will have to raid the store in the next town over. Thanks guys.

@SteveJ Thanks, so if I change the the bulbs in the tail lights and marker lamps to LED, that should cool that side of the fuse holder sufficiently ? Anyone have a list of LED replacements bulbs handy, I know I've seen a couple floating around? @Zed Head I didn't know someone was making that upgrade harness, looks like that would solve my problem too.

The 72 I'm working on has the usual melted fuse contact on the Parking/Tail lights circuit but as I went through the car I checked every bulb and contact points, the wires and connectors and didn't find anything concerning. The car is back together but that same fuse holder getting hot. Any ideas where I should start my hunt? Thanks

This forum, https://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9 is a great place to learn.

I don't know what your body work experience is but that 1.5" rust spot will probably be 3-4 x as big once the glass is out and you start digging, if you find perforations in the metal you are going to want to cut that metal out and weld in new metal. If it is just surface rust make sure you get all of it down to bare clean metal. If you can, epoxy prime the area before you start using the filler, bondo, Evercoat,UPOL they are all good products.

I think they might be talking about cleaning up the roughness of the cast iron casting if it interferes with the new unit you are installing.

I think you are right on all counts, I would zinc the whole piece. The cast aluminum triangular body that the spindle spins in has a recess inside, just pack that with hard grease, it will help take up any slack from wear in the spindle.

Picked up a set of used cam tower bearings today, came from an E31 head, all within spec, bolted them in and the cam slid in perfectly, first time with no binding! Very pleased. Also, p/u the spray bar from the donor head, it's in much better shape than the other one, there is definitely more oil coming out of the spray bar although certainly no jets of oil, but then the oil is cold and the cam and rockers aren't moving as I spin up the oil pump and they help to splash the oil around.

and some more,

I know a guy who knows a guy, these triple 45's belong to him. Been sitting on a shelf for 35 yrs, brand new, still in the original packing box, came with 2 intake manifolds, one is a TWM, the other is a shorty made by Mikuni, came with a heavy cloth heat shield, still in a sealed bag, good thing too considering it is probably full of Asbestos. You might see these show up on BaT at sometime in the future.

I've used Wesco seat belts in a couple of 240Z's but damned if I can remember which version it was, the kind I bought had the reel mounted right at the end of the quarter window, Is this it? https://www.wescoperformance.com/haandco3rese.html

Good paint aint cheap but from your pics it certainly looks like they went about right way. Those doors and fenders are looking pretty flat, did they tell you how many coats of clear they gave it?