grannyknot

I'm not a concourse guy and I can spot lots of things that aren't right. But nice and clean, well done.

Mark, I installed 2 new front fenders 2 yrs ago, Nissan hasn't made them in years so they hired another company to press them out. The new ones don't fit as well as the old ones, at least not on my car. The trailing edge of the fender that lines up with the door bows out more than the door does. I worked on it for hours to minimize it but it is still noticeable. At some point I will have to take it to a professional body man and see if he can fix it.

http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?

Good old Kameari, they are shameless. $460 for a steel head gasket, $1500 for a aluminum oil pan that sold for $500 in NA

Mark, that Z looks like it has lots of potential and it sounds like you are going about it the right way. It's a fun process, you probably won't have to deal with the kind of rust issues I did but there might be somethings in this build thread from my resto that may be of use to you. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45430-240z-rebuild-restoration-right-down-to-the-shell/?hl=%2Bright+%2Bdown+%2Bshell Looking forward to watching your progress. Chris

This is what I put together last winter, the mini fuse block was added to accommodate the added load of rad fan, fan controller, fuel pump, high and low beam. It is all working well but now I'm thinking maybe I should have a second look at this set up after reading Capt. Obvious' comment about the fusible link. The big cables for pos and neg are 4ga, the rest are 12ga. Chris

Wow that is interesting! Kennymonster is saying both Scheider and Isky told him that new rockers are not necessary if everything is smooth.

Yeah I saw those, from Czechoslavakia, hmmmm. I'll probably just order them from piercemanifolds.com I just thought there would probably be a number of guys here that have extras that they might want to get rid of.

Wondering if anyone has a set of emulsion tubes and jets they would like to sell? I'm looking for , -6x F11 e-tubes with holders -6x main jets any size -6x air corrector jets any size I plan on drilling out the jets, soldering them and then drilling them up in size until I get tuned properly. Thanks, Chris

I'm just about to start restoring my dash with the methods from this thread but I'm wondering because my cracks are so shallow, can I go straight to filling them with body glaze or should I still fill them with foam or bumper filler? Thanks, Chris

I've had my Sportage seals on both doors and hatch for a couple of yrs now and am very happy with them.

I just don't see it guys, the equal length of the hood and trunk makes it look like the Corvair.

There is a brass restrictor block in the rear brake line just in front of the spliter, both of the ones I have opened up were full of years of crap. I would start there.

The Ferrari Dino 246, never thought it was a looker.

Did the same thing, works perfectly.

Pretty awesome, nice write up.

Thanks Blue, I didn't think the e-tubes were SK because in my SK Tech Manual produced by TWM Inductions show a Weber e-tube in the exploded diagram. So I guess my e-tubes pre-date that diagram. As far as I can tell my e-tubes work just fine, I was just confused why they look so different to the Weber e-tubes, also Keith Franck of Sidedraft Central said he wasn't familiar with them and suggested that maybe they were Mikuni e-tubes.

It sure isn't from Weber or SK/OER The threads are machined into the body of the tube. Thanks, Chris

Does anyone know of a quiet 4 psi fuel pump? I have the RX7 pump installed at the moment and although they claim that it's 4psi it is more like 2 which in my case lets the bowls empty by the end of the quarter mile strip. Thanks, Chris

I'm pretty sure a late 70 build date will mean your fuel pump will still be the mechanical kind mounted near the front of the engine and if cranking the engine doesn't bring fuel up from the tank then the diaphragm in the pump could be ripped. You could also have a blockage in the tank or fuel line. If you do have an electric fuel pump in the rear you will have to get under the car and test it.

Jan, I had exactly the same sound and could not track it down, I rebuilt the transmission and that still didn't solve it. Finally I tracked the sound to the stick shift knob insert vibrating against the shift lever, the hollow space inside the knob amplified the sound and the shift pattern cap acted as a drum skin. I solved it by wrapping the threads with plumbers teflon tape and stuffing the hollow space inside the knob with dense foam. Chris

I bought one of those APSX units but haven't installed it yet, it looks like good quality to me. I'll post more when I get it installed. Chris

No problem. I'm sure we all know about vintageconnections but I also use this guy, http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html he deals mostly in vintage motorcycle electricals but some of them are identical to our stuff. He also carries some unusual stuff that has come in handy for me. Chris

I have a brand new set of terminal rubber covers that I never installed, send me your address through a pm and I'll get them in the mail to you free of charge and Merry Christmaz. Chris

Thanks Philip, that will get me started