grannyknot

Amar, here is my thread on my rebuild, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/48360-240z-rebuild-restoration-right-down-shell.html I used Charlie's floor pans and rails PLUS Baddog's rails over top. As I'm sure you have read many times, zedfindings stuff is 1st class but so are the Baddog rails and they are made to slip right over top of the original or Charlie's rails. The car is very stiff now with no twisting of the frame. If you ever plan on upping the HP it's worth considering. Looks like you have some big patches that need doing, do yourself a favour and get your car up on a rotisserie. Welding on your back is akin to torture. Chris

I think Jim has nailed it because the same thing happens to me occasionally. When it does happen I have to put the key all the way in then pull it back out maybe a 1/16th" then turn the wheel, the 1/16th" is because the ignition key is so worn. Chris

VVT? variable valve timing, the s38 engine I have does not have it, that came on later engines.

John, there is not a car enthusiast that is cheaper or more stingy than a Z owner. Anyone who parts out a Z will find that out very quickly. I have also owned 3 BMW's and although the machine parts are always excellent the electrical parts are not. I would take Chinese, Japanese or any other countries electricals over German any day . Don't you think 'perceived quality' is a big part of Porsche's draw? Porsche certainly isn't way up on the customer satisfaction/reliability charts. Chris

Blue, THANK YOU, I would love to see your bookmarked/favorites list, I'll bet it is a thing to behold. SteveJ, I found that thread a couple of days ago, pretty great. After going through most of threads posted I see a pattern of ECU problems, or maybe not problems but challenges, some of them big. What if I could avoid it all by installing triple carbs? It would eliminate most of the electronics, which I have to admit aren't my favorite to play with. I know I would loose some power but the Z is about a 1000 lbs lighter than an M6 so I would still be far ahead. I would need a stand alone ignition system, the Electromotive crank P/U and separate coils might do the job well. Still just thinking out loud. Thanks, Chris

Blue, you wouldn't have those websites bookmarked would you? Zed, what a great thread! Just read through it and he has done most of the work for me. Patcon, believe me, parting the M6 out is the last thing I would want to do after spending 4yrs of spare time and more $ then I care to add up on it. But, the Z is the car I go to these days. On paper the M6 is superior in almost every way to the Z, except in all the ways that can't be measured. The Z has my heart now. So, I have this great car that doesn't get driven. There is no market for them at the moment unless you pretty much give them away and it's going to cost more time and money to keep it up to wait for a time in the future when tastes change. Besides, I could help all those other M6 and 635 owners by offering up parts they may need for their cars. It is just a car after all, so that's my reasoning and this is all still in the "thinking about it" phase. SteveJ, FB and me don't mix so I'll google him and send him a pm through the forums, thanks for the referral. Chris

I have a 1987 M6 that I have dumped thousand$ into but there is no market for them at the moment so instead of selling it for 30 cents on the dollar I was thinking about keeping the freshly restored S38 (inline six 24 valve, dohc) engine an 5spd and part the rest the car out. I've done the measurements and it will fit nicely into a Z. What do you guys think? Would I be creating too much of an odd ball? Thanks, Chris

Hey Mark, I was by Whiteheads this afternoon and your car arrived yesterday I think they said. That is a fine paint job! It needs a proper buff but even as it is, stunning. Quite smooth, very well blended and a great colour. Is that the same colour as before cause there is a bit of turquiose now that I don't remember from before? You are going to be happy. Chris

I have the Kia Sportage seals on my doors and my hatch, I find they work perfectly. The shape of the Kia seal isn't a perfect match but very close and I have no water or exhaust leaks. And you can't beat the price, $15 at the wreckers. Chris

It's amazing how good a simple cut and polish will make a car look. Looks like you got a good deal.

Well done Gus, I have to admit that I really like the seamless look (headlight scoop to fender) You just don't see it done well very often, yours is the exception. It does make the front of the car look longer. Chris

I'm thinking a Spitfire

Rick, it looks great! Your cable holder is much better than the one I hobbled together. Congrats. Chris

Tom, good on you! I did similar rebuild a couple yrs back on a 3/70 240Z. Really looking forward to more pics. I don't think my rust was as bad as yours, keep going. Chris

hr369, I used 3M aerosol adhesive and so far no problems and the wrinkles smoothed out. Now one of the reasons the headliner is staying put I'm sure is that it doesn't get the full heat from the sun anymore, that home made version of Lizard Skin I made up and applied to the interior of the car as well as the roof has made a big difference . Chris

jalexquijano, any used springs you are considering are probably going to have 40 yrs of wear on them and will sit lower than the stock measurement. Why don't you put a .75" or 1" spacer between the top of your rear spring and the strut tower? It doesn't sound from your past posts that you will be doing any racing and this additional height will make the car look level. Hope this helps, Chris PS, you must be one of a very few guys in Panama with a Z ?

^ At least the internet is good for something. Great news and about time. Looks like they have done a very nice job! Not seeing any ripples in those pics, once it's buffed out you are going to be driving a big blue mirror! Still hope we can all get together to see you off whether it be this fall or the spring. Chris

Phil, if you look at the back of the bulb socket you'll see 6-7 serated teeth that have been folded in, crimped to hold that phenolic disk that contacts the bulbs terminal, it looks like if you carefully bend those teeth back then the bulb contact, spring and green wire should come out. Chris

Anyone in Idaho have a camera? We would all love to see some pics. If only I was retired, had a trailer and a pocket full of cash. Chris

Wow, it has been a while since I updated my build, hope I can remember everything. I have mounted triple SK carbs, some big air horns and loving the extra power and beautiful induction sound. I have also added a Clifford equal length header, a 123Ignition digital distributor that is a great product that I have only begun to play with and powder coated the valve cover and strut brace. Last winter I installed 4ga power and ground cables and a pony panel to handle the 140amp alternator, sound system, electric rad fan (that I have now deleted) and a HD wiring harness for the head lights. So went from this, to this, and before the ramair filters went on, Please disregard the attached pic of the package going to Bart. It's the ZTherapy carbs I sold him and I mis-labeled the pic and can't figure out how to delete it. Chris

Here's my performance pedal, Only cost $4 Some of the kids in Japan do this to their tricked out rides and I have had one young guy notice at a car show so it was worth it. Chris

Kevin, some of those aluminum rads will be well built and some will probably be crap.The original 2 row brass/copper rad was well built and you have it in your hands. If you are not adding huge HP to the engine then the original should be fine. I have done two 240z rads now and 4L of vinegar is what you want. Flush out as much crud as you can with a garden hose then lay the rad flat on the ground and fill it with the vinegar. After 24-48 hours empty and flush with lots of clean water. Spray it black and install. Chris

Here is another that is local to me, Garage find with title! 1972! I also bought a late /71 a couple of months back that turned into a parts car. How many more can still be out there? Chris

Mark, the painters are the Prima Donna's of the car world, what they say goes. Set your sites for next spring. Having done some bodywork I know the hired guys want to get away with as little work as possible, the foreman wants it perfect but within budget and the owner wants it acceptable to the customer BUT within budget. I know that sounds cynical but in your case the foreman/manager is still in charge, and that's a good thing. e mail Mike and have him lean on these guys a bit, after all you are paying for it not only with money but with time. Chris

Ben, as long as you use good quality materials there is no reason to believe they won't last many years. I rebuilt my heater box 2 years ago and it is working well but then I only use it in the early spring and late fall. I used thin foam backed vinyl from an Auto Upholstery shop for the faces of the baffle doors. Chris