grannyknot

It looks like you are using short quick movements with the paint gun, you want to use long,slow, even strokes that are parallel to the surface, no arching. Start your spray before you make a run and snap up your hand at the end of the run.

This tool is perfect for your job and I find I use mine all the time for various things, RYOBI | RYOBI Belt/disc Sander | Home Depot Canada

It happens here too but they are called "bush buggies". Makes sense now. Might also be good at the drag strip.

Whoa! Maybe I'm not understanding the principle here but aren't these welds going to cause damaging stress the rear end as soon as you turn a corner ?

Haven't got to it yet,too busy rebuilding tranny.

Someone had already removed the hand throttle lever from my 70Z when I got it but I've always wondered what the purpose was? It reminds me of the PTO on a tractor.

That is a big smile for the day, there are few things more pleasing I think then bringing an old engine back to life. Good for you guys.

Also, there are 2 possible problems you might run into, I certainly did. I found a couple of weeks after installing the cable linkage that either the cable stretched or a combination of other parts settled and the throttle plates weren't opening fully anymore. After adjusting all was fine again and there was no more problems with that. On the other end of that problem is the possibility of not having your gas pedal stop posistioned correctly and using the power of your foot and desire for speed to force the throttle plates too far. It's easy to add a spacer on top of the gas pedal stop if you have to. Chris

I'm referring to the bolts that hold the hinge assembly to the body, I found that's where I got the best adjustment.

Dave, I wish I had taken better pics when I had the cable throttle up and working on my SU's but you might be able to see how I did it from the 3rd pic. The H shaped holder mounts to the intake manifold between the heat shield and the bottom of the air box. One of the advantages to cable throttle control besides the smooth action is it allows you the get rid of all that crap on the balance tube. I have triples on the engine now and haven't got around to installing the cable linkage yet.

SWEET engine bay! I think I just found my new desk top wallpaper. I'm going to put my relays in the same spot, I guess there is only a few places things like that will fit. Thanks

Looks great, the price of re-silvering mirrors has gone through the roof the last 20 years, I guess it's because of all the nasty chemicals involved, so you got a good price. Did you use the hot water and dish soap method to get the glass out and back in?

Thanks, some good suggestions. dawg7, that's exactly where I want to put mine, do you ever have any problem with it getting wet? fastwoman, any reason you would go with a Maxifuse over a regular or minifuse? Chris

I want to add a fuse block to the engine bay to help remove some of the high current flowing to the stock fuse block and ignition switch. So far I've installed Dave Irwin's headlight upgrade harness and parking light harness. The new engine bay fuse block I would power the electric rad fan, fan controller, fuel pump and starter relay. I'm thinking about using this block, 100/30A LED Micro Blade Fuse Block | Princess Auto Can I assume that it can handle 100amps total and no more then 30amps on anyone circuit? Thanks, Chris

Porkbun, my own experience with Holley 4 bbl carb is one of nothing but fustration and anger, but some people swear by them. Check out Airzona Z car, manifold.html he has been selling this manifold for years and has lots of experience with 4bbl on L series engines.

Mike, do have both the valve cover breather and the block breather going into the snot can?

You won't have to drill and tap, Nissan has made it simple by adding a spacer that goes between the front cover and the degreed tab. so this is what I'd send you if you need it.

Had to hunt a bit to find it, back on page 14, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/48360-240z-rebuild-restoration-right-down-shell.html

Wingsuit, Wow, makes me want to take off my spook and spoiler and paint them black.

Mark, is this of any use to you? If so, it's yours for shipping cost.

Jeff, I'm talking brand new, I paid $80 I think. Only you guys in the States get them for $30-40

I guess we have it easy up here in Ontario, once you have your car, any car safety inspected, that's it, you never have to have it inspected again until it changes owners. Any car 1987 and older does not need an emissions test so you can modify to your hearts content. Ryan, here is a pic of my Z before, this is the passenger side foot well, and after, it's all doable,

Reverend, I'm using the cheapo RX-7 inline pump for a year now with no problems feeding my triples, I have used the Holley pump you linked to, can't remember if it was the blue or the red one but it was very loud. The RX-7 pump is rated at 4 psi continuous, I found it to be more like 3.5psi so I just opened up the regulator wide with no restrictions and everything is working well.

Now that I think about it I remember reading about the E31 head and how well it breathes in stock form and that you would only notice the smaller valves at high rpms and wot. For a street car you are probably never going to notice. Maybe they didn't want to risk your original E31 head as they are getting harder to find in good condition. Ready in 3 months, wow. And if your are driving her back maybe we can get some the guys out from our local club, Ontario Z Car Club to give you a send off.

Thanks Jim, whole job took 4min. Blue, that's great idea, I have DatsunSpirits plug wires coming, the ones that wrap around the front of the valve cover so I was thinking and grinding off those 3 little bases for the plug wire seperaters on the top of the cover. If I did the same as you with the breather nozzle that would be one smooooooth looking cover!