grannyknot

Christian, check your flamethower coil, if it is a 1.5 ohm you will need a ballast resistor if you have points. If the coil is 3ohms then the PO should have joined the G/W wire and B/W wire that are on either side of the ballast resistor together. BUT if the coil is 3 ohms with no resistor you are going to burn through points quickly. You might want to search the archives for the dozens of threads on the Petronix ignition module, dead simple and most people are pleased with the reliabillity.

Good work, that little corner piece under the the heel of the driver gas foot is a real bugger isn't? It doesn't have to be pretty, just strong. What gauge of metal did you you use for the rails?

Just for anyone interested here is the original aluminum drum on the left and new cast iron on the right, Aluminum drums are 4lbs a pc. cast Iron are 12lbs. Not happy about that but the old ones were 4mm over the max dia. so it's no wonder I could never get them to lock up.

Well, I got the speakers started trying to come up with a box that fit into the back corners of the Z,but no matter what I came up with it always seemed that most of the sound was going to hit the back of the shock towers so have built a box to sit dead centre but snug up against the latch. Everything I read about ported vs unported was just frankly confusing so I ported the box and I'll rig up a solid plug for the port and see which one sounds better.

Just as I was getting out of the Triumph TR6 scene a few years back Moss Motors started selling a supercharger for the British straight six engine, here it is, http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=112422 Might be worth a look, induction is on the other side of the engine unfortunately.

JR, now you have to post some pics! Don't loose contact with that FEDX guy, he can answer questions that you have and may save you a lot of time.

No one is going to be able to advise you on what the car is worth without a lot more info. So, try and sell us the car, post some good pics of all the rust areas, underneath, engine bay along with the list of what you have done to the car to improve it. Think of this as a dry run. Hell, you might even find a buyer through this thread.

I have heard and read in the archives that there is a few years where the 260z and or the 280z had a Volt/Fuel gauge that can replace the early Amp/Fuel gauge. None of the threads I found listed which years the Volt/Fuel gauge came in or really described the change over. I know I have to connect and isolate the charge wires going to the Amp meter but wondering if anyone has done this change over and could add some detail? Thanks, Chris

If you have 16" or larger wheels then this might be your best option, Yet another rear drum to disk conversion option! - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ Nigel a Z enthusiast that has put the time in and come up with and off the shelf combination of hardware that might be perfect, but only for you guys that run larger wheels.

Using just sand paper to remove that rust is going to be a hard slog, an easier way would be to use an angle grinder like this 4-1/2" Electric Angle Grinder and some or all of these,Bristle Disk 4 1/2 in, 50 grit Green, or a good old wire wheel. Post some pics of your progress, we love pics.

Rust is really the only issue, anything else is easily fixed. I seriously considered dropping the S38 engine from an M6 into my Z during the resto, I did all the measurements and it fits perfectly with the stick shift sitting about 2" farther back than stock. As siteunseen mentioned, Nissan is cheap by comparison. Oh, and by the way Welcome fold.

Little better on price,Aem Uego Wideband O2 Air Fuel Ratio Gauge Controller Kit w Digital LED 30 4100 | eBay

Aint it the truth :] I correct it all under my breath but never mention it anymore. Different generation. The reluctant grammar Nazi.

HaZmatt, I would use weldable primer around anywhere that needs patching /repairing and epoxy primer on everything else. Weldable primer can actually be welded through, that is the only reason to spray it, once the repairs are done apply epoxy primer. I would apply paint on top of any primer before undercoating, even if it is only rattle can paint. I have had to completely redo the bottom of a TR6 because I sprayed undercoating over bare primer. It may not happen to you but I'm just saying. If water gets past the undercoating then the primer won't protect anything. The job of primer is to give "tooth" for paint which does the job of sealing. Rustoleum works fine on the interior but it does take a l o n g time to cure. Make things as easy as possible for the paint shop, it will cost you less and you will get a better job in the end. Jason, I would agree that generally a lap joint is a bad idea but as these cars are going to be treated very well from now on after a resto I can't see anything wrong as long as both pcs are well sealed before and after welding them together.

Kurby, that is a really smart idea that hatch you built to the spare tire area. I haven't carried a spare tire for years and I'm just about to mount my amp in the spare tire well for the new sound system and that hatch idea is perfect to access the tool kit but also supply fresh cooler air for the amp. Leave it open while driving, close it up for shows. Good work. Chris

Mine is a low dollar version, $10 for 14ga aluminum sheet, $20 for a A/C fan from a 1996 Ford Taurus (available after market for a very reasonable price if you want new) and a $110 for the Dakota controller that Mike mentioned. The Dakota unit cost more than I wanted to spend but as mentioned, you just can't beat it for adjustability. Mike, beautiful engine bay!

Chas, you actually scrolled that far down in the pics? The steering rack was the only thing on that car the owner didn't screw up. For everyone else this is what we are talking about,http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/51092-kinda-doubt-guy-will-even-get-his-starting-bid.html Here is my version of the clamp, not as elegant as the original but it should do the job, just have to dig up a U-bolt now.

Datsun Z Series Convertible | eBay

Just found this pic on ebay,

Perfect! This will be the definitive U bolt clamp thread. I would be willing to bet that the rubber block was just touching the cross member when it was installed. Thank you, Chris

Well I'm a B.C. boy myself Mark, Vancouver born and bred. I have also flown in and out of Castlegar dozens of times. You are going to love your Whitehead engine! I have an L28 by them and it rocks. Are you using the original E31 head with larger valves? Your final bill for everything is going to make you wince but it will all be done very well, turn key . Motorsport! Tension Rod T/C Kit, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts this kit with a stock rubber backing bushing is a great way to go for the T/C rod, good road feel without too much harshness. Any pics you post will be very much appreciated. Chris ,another chris

Mike, any chance you can take some measurements and some pics while you have it off? I need to make one for my car Thanks, Chris

I have an early z and there was no trace of this U bolt clamp bumper on mine. What was the point of it? It looks like the bumper would rest against the bottom of the oil pan but why, wouldn't the pinion gear keep the rack from rotating?

Blue, I'm going to suggest something really low tech, go to the office supply store where they sell all kinds of different colours of construction paper, remove the headlight cover, cut the construction paper to fit the curve and re-install the cover. It will give you a good idea of the finished product. Also, you could try the adhesive vinyl that is used on the side of trucks for advertising, test fit with the paper on the back then stick down if you like it. If you ever decide to change it it just peels up.

I haven't seen it but black might look very interesting, kind of like a sub opening it's torpedo hatchs. How about photoshop?