grannyknot

Well my distributor was off the marks, the adapter plate was in the wrong place. So that screwed up all my other readings, with that fixed, the engine idling at 1050rpm(about the lowest I can get this engine to idle without it stumbling) the static timing set at 5* I take the revs up slowly and at 3200rpm there is no more movement of the timing mark and the timing light is reading 30* that sounds right doesn't? Here's a pic of the centrifugal weights, one spring is much lighter then the other, not sure if this is the way it came stock or if someone has been modifying.

I would take this any day,Autos

mildsquare, ask Brian at Z Car Customs- JDM - HOME: how much it would cost from Japan, I think you might be surprised how cheap it can be, the price for parts are reasonable. Your looking for part #64

Brockus95, Welcome! Get the car up on jack stands and get underneath with a pry bar and start checking for movement between components, it could just be the 33 year old rubber bushings need replacing. Chris

Uh boy... this is reminding me of the nightmares I went through on this thread,http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/49271-engine-will-only-run-above-4000-rpm-carbs-timing.html The long and short of that thread was once I threw away the HEI and switched to the old 240z distributor(D612-53) with Pertronix ignition, I got the engine running pretty well. But there is obviously still some timing/ignition issues that haven't been solved. I have a good quality timing light now with an advance dial on it so I'll try to do a graph of the timing mark as I take the revs up. Zed, the spark plugs are NGK BPR7ES, the threaded portion is 23mm long the same as the BPR6ES. The compression numbers that I took in June are #1 cyl 215lbs #2 195lbs #3 210lbs #4 220lbs #5 215lbs #6 200lbs I know these numbers seem high but they consistent with a compression test I did 2 months earlier in April.

F54 block, N42 head, port and polish, port matched, Crane mild cam grind on a Nissan blank cam, Flat top pistons, not sure which ones, Cylinder bored 0.020" over, 10:1 compression, The timing curve reference I'm using is this great chart put together by Walter Moore, scroll down to post #19 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html Ping happens under hard acceleration in 3rd 4th and 5th from about 3500 rpm and up. I thought the triples had solved the problem and they did help but after I got use to the louder induction sound I realized most of the pre detonation was still there

L28 engine, 10 to 1 compression, using a D612-53 distributor from an early L24 engine, static timing 5* Pertronix ignition, mild Crane cam. Can not advance the timing past 10* without ping, vacuum advance disconnected because of triple carbs. I have tried 94 octane gas with colder plugs but still getting some ping. I thought my next move was to pull the head and install a thicker head gasket to bring down the compression a bit but my local mechanic suggested that a cam with a longer duration might be worth a try before pulling the head. Is this a real option? This is the cam I'm running right now,

Koalia, VERY pretty! Did you take pics while you disassembled and cleaned? Are you going to add air filter screens or "suck dirty" ? I saw 2 Z cars at shows this summer that had no air filtering of any kind and it wasn't just for the show, they drove that way all the time. Couldn't do it myself. mildsquare, great info, I've had a hard time finding history on this company and it's nice to see this stuff ending up in one place. Blue, did you take those pics while you were in Japan?

You will find quite a few build threads on Open S30 Z Discussions.

Motorsport! Kameari High Capacity Oil Pan, 70-83 Z/ZX* - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Is this the same aluminum oil pan that Arizona Z car used to sell? I have one on my engine and looks the same as these pics. Chris

I installed the Wesco roadster seatbelt kit in the spring and put 2600mi on them this summer and my only complaint would be they are kinda touchy about locking up as you pull them out to strap yourself in. Not a big deal, you just learn to pull it out slowly, on the other hand that is a good thing. Very comfortable. Chris

Can we sticky this one sentence a the top of the Suspension ? It is so easy to loose this kind of info.

Oh, and it's from a 1996 Ford Taurus.

Steve, I plan on using 12ga wire. Chas More Information for DORMAN 620105 It's a 13.5" A/C fan, don't know the cfm but it is quite powerful.

First off ericg, Welcome! You will come to love this site. You have a series I, hatch has been replaced. P/O may have replaced the hatch because of the rear vents on early cars were troublesome or maybe because of a rear end crash. The colour, well... those colour charts weren't written in stone and if your car was built late in 1971 that would explain it. Post some pics when you can, we all love pics! Chris

Electronic Fan Controller 70 Amp This is the electric fan controller I just picked up, it has a 70amp relay and they are recommending a 70amp fuse for the main power wire, now from what I understand the 70 amp relay is to handle the momentary power surge it take to get the fan going and up to speed but a 70amp fuse doesn't sound like it is going to protect much. Aren't wires going to melt before a 70amp fuse blows? Thanks, Chris

Stunning! How many guide coats/filler did it take to get the body that smooth?

Here is the link to Curtis's thread on this car if anyone wants to keep on it. my new 240z Chris

It's called a Snot can, Allstar Performance - racing and high performance car parts, accessories and specialty tools. it catches oil and lets smoke and water vapour escape, but I'm not sure if our blocks breathe in or out. I tie-wrapped a couple of layers of bug screen over mine and it seems to be fine.

Hodgimus, that looks like a good unit but listen to these guys when they say the connections are more important. Power connections as well as grounds.

Hardway, did you sell it to Curtis? Chris

I believe this is a NOS purchased from Nissan about 10-12 yrs ago by the p/o of my 1970 The long side is approx 1.5" and about 60* angle

Bart, that statement says it an existing situation, get her up on blocks and check every inch of the fuel line right back to the tank, pay close attention to all of the fuel and fuel/air hoses that are inside the cab behind the rear passenger side interior covering. You might have the original plastic surge tank, might be time to renew those 32 year old hoses. Chris

I wish I had know that last week when I purchased a set of R4S pads online from the Porterfield website, the cost to my door in southern Ontario, $138. Half of that is UPS. I'm hoping they are worth it. Chris

These are the air horns I have ordered AIR HORN <br><font color="red">52845.010</font> I have the carbs running fairly well at the moment but was wondering when I bolt on the new air horns will I have to adjust the balance, idle or change any jets? Thanks, Chris