grannyknot

These are the air horns I have ordered AIR HORN <br><font color="red">52845.010</font> I have the carbs running fairly well at the moment but was wondering when I bolt on the new air horns will I have to adjust the balance, idle or change any jets? Thanks, Chris

This is exactly the set up I have now and there is no thumps or noises like there use to be with stock strap, Couldn't be happier.

you just place it in the hole, put your finger over the breather hole on top and pull it out and read it.

So I just received my new SK float level sight tube, costly but very nicely made, apparently it can be used on Webers and Solex carbs as well. All of my fuel levels were 2-4mm too low.

I don't think it's going to take you anywhere near 5 months to get this car done at your present rate. Love the pics Chris

Just a warning to anyone reading this thread! Methal Hydrate although one of the milder cleaners does react with certain material! I'm not a chemist, just a backyard mechanic with some experience and I have found that med-long term contact between MH and rubber, SOME gasoline rated rubber (neoprene) and aluminum is not good. I'm not concerned with legalities, I just don't want anyone reading this thread to go and soak their carb in MH and think they can pull it out and use it. Short contact with MH, no more then a minute, (I keep mine in a common utility spray bottle) is fine as it evaporates very quickly. If your carb is old and dirty it needs a rebuild. Blue, what part seperated?

Blue, I didn't open those covers, #78 because I didn't have new paper gaskets but the big screw may be nothing more than a plug covering an access hole used for machining purposes, it is not listed on the exploded diagram and that may be the reason. "The quality and precision of the metal work is much better than the DCOE's I have worked on." I agree and without a doubt the founders of SK were racers using Webers on their cars and got tired of tearing them open to change anything. Finally they said "We can do better than this, we can improve on this design" and they did. I've heard Weber sued (as they had every right to) and part of the settlement was that SK could openly advertise in Japan but no where else. They could ship anywhere in the world but "dealers" couldn't carry any stock so as to inconvenience the buyer. I have done some hunting and have found very little info on the company and most of what I know is heresay from old mechanics. Chris

Zedyone, how long are they?

I have triple carbs on now with K&N filters that are 69mm deep, wondering if it is worth it from a performance stand point to install 25mm or maybe 50mm air horns? Using 50mm horns only allows 19mm of space between the end of the air filter and the horn but the angular distance would be more. Has anyone tried horns inside of the air filters? Chris

73str86, I have an SK fuel level sight tube tool in the mail on its way to me right now, I'll post pics when I get it. I purchased it from, Z Car Customs- JDM - HOME: Brian is a really good guy to work with. It's more than a bit pricey at $75 plus shipping from Japan for an eye dropper with gradations but to get the float level PERFECT you need it. I set my float levels by using a vernier caliper and the tech manual and engine runs well except it doesn't like to start which is indicative of the wrong float level, ...so I bought the tool. I'm sure once I get my float levels set that I will be mailing this tool around the continent to others if you are interested. Chris

Blue, I can't help you on the accelerator pump, mine where working well so I didn't dig in there. I have found plain old methyl hydrate is the best stuff for dissolving all that gum, works like magic. Then I pull out these puppies, Everytime I go to the dentist I ask if he has any dental tools they are throwing away and he always has a few for me. They my not be new enough to use on teeth but they perfect cleaning carbs and they are free.

Blue, where do you find this stuff? I've googled these carbs a dozen times and never come across those quotes. I happened to meet the master mechanic (he's about our age) at Woodbine Nissan a couple of weeks back at a show n shine and what he had to say about Weber, Mikuni and SK was pretty much the same as the 2 quotes you listed.

Blue, the only thing the factory would have used is a thin rubber O ring, that might be a hard tap to find. Congrats on your buy, with all your carb knowledge I'll be interested to hear what you have to say about the rebuild and the performance. Chris

Hey Mike, I'm not saying you did anything wrong, I would just like to repeat something my 70 yr old metalwork high school teacher back in 1973 told us. "When you tap or drill a hole you are the milling machine, but you are not as accurate so go slow with lots of lube, just like a woman." At 13 we laughed but didn't really know what he was talking about. Proper proceduer was, turn the tap in 1/8th turn then back off 1/4 turn to allow the cuttings to fall and keep advancing and retreating slowly until you are all the way through, slow and precise. It occured to me that taps and dies are still sold but no one ever mentions how to use them. Chris

Steve, the stock L24 single points distributor with a Pertronixs ignition module that I'm using was set at 10* static for the dyno, but I was just catching up on posts and found this, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html have a look at post #19, Walter Moore's research might mean I have the wrong static timing. I'll have to check the stamped code on the side of my dizzy. It is a good dyno result and the best part is it was done on a Dyno Dynamics roller, they are known as the "heartbreaker" because they always display lower or as the guy who bought the dyno says, "real" numbers. Sooner the better for me as our weather is starting to cool a bit. Just waiting for this SK float level sight tool from japan, just want to make sure everything is properly setup before I take it for tuning and then the dyno. Jim, the engine came with the mild cam and I wouldn't want to change it out until I have the carbs running perfectly and then only if I find the cam to be the limiting factor. But I have to say I love that flat torque curve, everything it has to offer is available at low rpm right up to red line. This is a weekend street/highway car. Chris

I forgot to mention that I'm not using a header, I took a stock cast iron exhaust manifold and hogged it out to match the larger exhaust ports and smoothed the interior a bit, I would love to polish the interior of the manifold just not sure how I would do that.

F54 block, N42 head, port and polish, port matched, Crane mild cam grind on a Nissan blank cam, Flat top pistons, not sure which ones, Cylinder bored 0.020" over, 10:1 compression, 10 lb aluminum flywheel Steve, didn't want to go over 6000 rpm cause there was some ping happening which has disappeared with the triples.

yes it is

A moderately built L28 with well tuned ZTherapy SU's, Had this done last week on a Dyno Dynamics machine, torque appears to be 190-192 ftlbs I'm pretty happy with those numbers, but now I have installed a set of SK/OER triples and once I have those tweaked to best performance I'm heading back to the same dyno to answer for myself which carbs are better for me. I don't want to reignite that debate again but I thought some might be interested in the results so I'l post them as soon as I get them. I am really loving the triples, great sound and the car feels stronger but I could just be fooling myself. Chris

Pick up one on ebay, measure the angle before cutting, cut to fit, find some metal tubing to fit as a sleeve over top of both ends, drill and insert roll pins or even screws. Sand, fill and paint. : ) Here is a bit of inspiration,

You can see where I cut and welded the two ends together, This is only temporary until I can get the Lokar cable back on.

Koalia, just looking at your cold start levers, I think you'll need to reverse those so they open in the other direction, your technical manual explains how to do that. It's not hard. From your pics your intake manifold appears to be the standard depth, if the length of the runners from flat to flat are about 13.5 cm. then that is standard not short. No big deal just know that by the time you get air filters on it gets a bit tight for room. Your last pic shows that you have rod ends already, if you use those rod ends then the rod and levers you buy will have to be the same diameter. The OER site your buying from doesn't have a lot of description on their linkage parts and they don't seem to sell the intercouple linkage that is missing from your carbs, see it here, WEBER DCOE INTERCOUPLE LINKAGE<br><font color="red">PM3718 You might want to look at a linkage kit like this, UNIVERSAL LINKAGE KIT<br><font color="red">PM3701-L</font> I would order one more rod end then they have in the kit but the rest of it seems to be there. So here are my measurements, main rod, 8mm dia, 50cm. length, rod levers approx 5.2cm centre to centre, turnbuckle, 9.5 cm centre to centre, so something like, JPS adjustable rod<br><font color="red">75500.100</font> intercoupe linkage, 4.1 cm C/C Are you also going to overhaul the carbs while you have them out on your bench? You won't find a better time than now. I just installed my SK/OER triples and sofar every thing is running smoothly, I just previewed this and I don't know where the RED came from, I must have hit some key I shouldn't have. Chris

Koalia, I'm happy to give you some measurements from my set up but you have to know that what I have and what you need may be two different things. Linkages by their nature are adjustable and it will probably be fine, but it also may not, do your research. Does your Lynx manifold have rod ends and a rod yet or is it bare? Can you post some pics, 5-6 with detail of the manifold and what is on it? Chris

I talked to Steve/Madkaw the other day and asked if I could add to his thread, "feel free" was the answer. I bought my Vitaloni mirrors mostly because of this thread and I hated all the other mirrors I looked at. I got them on ebay for $100 plus $21 shipping, honestly I wasn't expecting too much because the of the reasonable price. I'll post the name of the seller if anyone wants it, good guy. I am very impressed with the quality and design of these mirrors so I thought I would add some close ups and how to info. Base detail, Save yourself the heartache and repairs and just start with a small drill and build up to the final 5/16th drill. You may even be able to use your existing holes, there is lots of wiggle room on the base plate. Also make sure you use the plastic insert plugs, they help reduce the vibration. Vibration is no more than the inside rear view mirror and there is no whistling.

Mike, this might be overkill but I use this stuff all the time and love it, Ox-Gard Anti Oxidant Compound - OX-100B Consumer Reviews | Epinions.com Unlike dielectic grease, this stuff is conductive effectively giving you more surface area contact and a cooler connection. And of course it helps prevent oxidation forming again. Good for any single wire crimping, spade or bullet terminals, grounding points etc. NOT good for multi pin connectors!