grannyknot

The exhaust manifold is a stock unit that I have bored out a bit, the flange thickness is the same as intake manifold, with new 1/4" thick washers on a new gasket, tight as drum. Great idea, had hopes for this one, ran a drain snake up the exhaust hoping I would brake up the demon squriels nest then I unbolted the down pipes at the exhaust manifold, it sounded good but changed nothing. Thanks, do you have a set of points? That might be worth a try. My last test of the pump was 1.5L per min. at 3.5 psi. I'll try the regulator at 1 and 6 psi in a fill test to rule that out. I have a mechcanical pump from the original engine, certainly worth a try. Plug cables are good. I wish, that would be so easy fix. I gotta say, this engine runs like a champ from 3000 - 4000 rpm, if only I could get it a little lower.

I had the vac advance plugged with triples and with the SU's I've had it with a hose to vacuum and plugged, it made no difference. It's plugged at the moment and will stay that way, one less variable. When the triples were on all the butterflies were in sinc.The SU's butterflies appeared also to be in sinc before I installed them. Just cranking the timing mark on the pulley is about at 10* with the timing light. Zed, your right it is all over the place, but people make a suggestion, I go and try it and report back, any one of them might be the fix. Demon Squirrels...THAT'S IT! fresh fuel going to both carbs, and yes that is a new hose and it's feeding the vacuum tester. I don't know what fuel pump he was using but the 1.5L per min. pump that I have now is enough for an idle. What has changed? He had a header on I have a bored out cast iron exhaust manifold, he was using a generic HEI module and a Bosch coil, I'm using a matched HEI module and coil from Pertronix. He had the triple carbs which I tried extensively, but spark plugs were always wet and fuel spilling out the front, since installing the SU's no wet plugs and only a bit of gas coming out the front when it back fires through the carbs on shut down. A little success today, I managed to get a very rough and low idle out of it twice, each time only lasted about 10 seconds and the timing light showed pulley mark at about 12* In between those 2 attempts were lots start and die immediately and the usual start and surge up and down like in the second vid. I changed nothing between these attempts as I was trying to get a reading with the timing light. Chris

Can I take a set of SU's off of a well running L24 and put the on an L28 with 10:1 compression and expect to get the engine running, even roughly? Thanks Chris

Wade, have a look at these vids I posted in #77 or there abouts, Vaccuum Reading L28 #1 - YouTube Vaccuum Reading L28 #2 - YouTube Ever since you posted about the vacuum gauge I've had one on at every attempt. When I can get the engine to run at 4000 rpm with the help of the gas pedal the needle bounces like scenerio 3 in the vacuum website http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

Thru the regulator set at 3.5 I'm getting 1.5 Litres per min(I tested it with a jug and stop watch). Fuel flowed at a nice steady stream. All bolts are tight. If I take this to a shop to fix they are going to rape me and I'm not sure they are going to figure out either. I've checked every system a dozen times. How does an engine pull enough fuel out of a carb to race it up to 4-5000rpm without touching the pedal?

Madkaw, can't think where those vacuum leaks would be, every bolt is tight. Manifold to block, carb/spacer/manifold, and balance tube/manifold, I even plugged the coolant heating tube that goes through the intake manifold. Here are some pics of the engine bay, good idea, maybe I'm looking at the problem without knowing it. Fuel regulator set at 3.5 psi, I tested the fuel pump it is putting out 1.5 Litres per min.

So, I removed the damper/pulley today and put it on top of the pulley from the 2.4L, identical, same angle difference between the key way and the timing notch, so no slippage. Rigged up this dial gauge/spark plug holder to verify TDC With #1 piston at true TDC this is where the pulley sits, The oil pump shaft is where it should be and the distributor is in perfect position. I'm ruling possible timing issues out from here on, I've explored them extensively and it all seems to be in order. Carburation, seems highly unlikely that two completely different types of working carbs could exhibit the same fault (however I still can't explain the high revs) but I'm going to put the carbs aside for the moment and concentrate on electrical, maybe I should try a set of points? Is there any chance an open block breather could cause this? I know on FI engines it could play havoc. Grasping at straws.

The raised mark on the side of the number 1 post on the distributor cap coresponses with the red marker I put on the distributor housing. "is the #1 plug wire lined up with the rotor" yes and no, the last pic shows the rotor centre just past the red maker, so to my understanding, the spark has fired just before the piston reaches TDC , the flame front expands and as the piston reaches TDC the combustion pressure reaches the maximum and pushes the piston down. Oh, I removed the wires several times and I continue to trace my finger along every spark plug wire before every new attempt to get it going. I made those videos so that hopefully someone will say "just do ... and your problem will be solved and also to prove that I'm not trolling. If by retard you mean turn the distributor CCW then it just won't start at all, at full CW (clockwise) the engine races. IF I HAVE THIS BACKWARDS SOMEOME PLEASE TELL ME. At the making of those vids the distributor is just a degree or so CW of the centre mark.

I thought it was time to go back to basics, with the #1 piston at top dead centre this is what I'm seeing, Is this 10 degrees off or bang on? Cam lobes look right The punched timimg marks on this new (15,000km old) sprocket are 5 o'clock=1, 2 o'clock=2 and 11 o'clock=3, isn't the #1 mark suppose to be at 2 o'clock at TDC? Could this mean that the timing chain is already advanced ? Red marker on distributor housing is where the raised mark on the cap sits when clamped down. with the rotor on, rotor moves in a counter clockwise. Again, all these pics where taken without rotating the engine in the position I believe to be TDC, After trying to start it again with no luck I pulled the triples off and re-placed them with a set of SU's from the original engine that worked perfectly before I pulled the old engine. Interesting results. Using no choke or gas pedal the engine started right up and reved up to 4-5000rpm back down to what I thought was stalled then came back to life and back up to 4000rpm then back down and did this a couple of more times before it really stalled. I have a couple of videos of the vacuum gauge as it does this dance. Here are the links, First video it doesn't want to start, the revs you hear are the engine on the 2nd video I'm not even touching the pedal! http://youtu.be/toFAstydu-Y http://youtu.be/rB79ZnEV8Ec

Not sure what coil p/o was using, I have emailed him but no repsonse so far. The first HEI module that came with engine was made by Standard Motor Products. Since then I have purchased a Pertronix flamethower coil and Pertronix flamethrower HEI module. I assumed they're designed for one another but who knows. Hate to say it but no change at all, everything the same except now I'm temped to take a sledge hammer to this POS and teach it lesson. Wade, I've only seen either in spray cans, can you describe how to do it, should I empty the fuel bowls? Thanks, Chris

No ballast resistor here. Pertronix flame thrower, 3.0 ohms. Madkaw, remember the scale I used for those readings, the scales I used brought the decimal point as far left as possible so as to give as much detail as possible.

Okay so 'm cleaning the carbs, got them done this after noon, all jets out, carb cleaner, methel hydrate and compressed air. There was some varnish that came off easily, and one of the float levels was set way too high. All the floats are black plastic and in good condition and all seemed to float at the same height in water. I set them all exactly the same so the fuel level will be 1mm less than the base setting, I can always raise it later externally if I have too. I'll re-install tomorrow afternoon and let you guys know what happens. Thank you, Chris

Bart, every time I have removed the plugs, the old ones or the new ones I just put in they were black and sooty. As well, there is some fuel dripping out of the carbs after every secession. I agree Zed, but the RX7 fuel pump is suppose to be a low pressure pump (which is why it's so quiet) but I have a regulator on the fuel line set at 3.5 psi. Float level might be out and I don't have the SK/OER float tool to measure it properly BUT all floats are at the exact same height so... hard to imagine all of them being wrong. Steve, I don't know man, multiple gremlins. I guess since no one mentioned the ohm readings that they are okay? Thanks, Chris

Just tried the spark plug tester on every plug with about and 1/4 of an inch between the fixed point and the screw in point, it looked like a decent spark with a bit of blue as it starts then yellow to white as it reaches the other side. Just did it again, and I'm not seeing the white and yellow so much but more blue with some violet and orange. I haven't tried screwing the point farther out than 1/4", and I would say that all of the sparks are pretty consistent looking compared to one another.

SteveJ, I just noticed this post, sorry. So, with the ignition key on I'm getting 12.20v between the pos side of the coil and true ground. With the multimeter set on the 200 scale of ohms I get 3.4 measuring between the neg and pos terminals of the coil and the reading is the same with ignition key on or off. With the multimeter set on the 20k scale of ohms I get 9.50 measuring between the neg terminal and the centre post of the coil and the reading is the same with ignition key on or off. I used those scales because they gave the best results. I just p/u this spark plug tester today from NAPA and it has no instructions of any kind. It looks pretty straight forward but I'll hunt through youtube first to see some how to vids before I use it,

Not sure how to test the coil that's why I just bought a new one instead. Can't I assume a new coil is doing what it's suppose to do?

I'm not really sure if I did screw up the old HEI module now as the new spark plugs seemed to do part of the trick, ... multiple system gremlins. At some point I'll go back and try the old module and coil. I removed and cleaned the spark plugs four or five times during this last week and most of them were wet with fuel and all were very black. I used compressed air to clear the cylinders and carb cleaner a wire brush and compressed air to clean the spark plugs. Madkaw/Steve, the alternator was reading 14.30v or something close to that while the rpms were between 1000 and 4000rpm. So pretty sure the alternator is working.

Well, I have spent all the time since my last post fighting with the engine just trying to get it started. If you are interested these threads document it, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/49270-did-i-wire-wrong-no-spark.html and this one, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/49271-engine-will-only-run-above-4000-rpm-carbs-timing.html I have got a few things done, got the Integra seat mounts built and installed, they are so much more comfortable to my back then the original seats. Chris

Well, I couldn't get it going with the 240's dizzy and Pertronix pick up, then the new coil and HEI arrived so re-installed the 280 dizzy and new stuff, checked every variable I could think of. It just wouldn't start, in desperation I drove up to the local auto parts store and p/u new spark plugs and it started! But wouldn't idle, 1000-1500rpm is as low as it will go before dying. When the engine dies with a couple chugs there is usually smoke puffing out the carbs as well as fuel (on one occasion I got a good plume of fire instead of smoke). I have checked the float levels, they are good. I've tried the start up multiple times now and have found the best timing adjustment to be slightly advanced from the centre line mark on the dist. Then I started with the carbs and quickly found out that the idle mixture screw turned down until they bottom on the seats makes no difference so I'm pretty sure it's the carbs I'm fighting now or more to the point, the jets. Bottomed idle mixture screws should cut off those pistons fuel supply. Very strange, since really the only thing to change is now there is a hogged out cast iron exhaust manifold on it and last fall it had a header. I can see that that might cause a difference at high rpm but not idle. So, my plan at this point is put the car back together enough to make it road worthy, have it flatbeded down to the Z specialist at Whitehead Performance, let them re-jet and get it running and then drive it home. I could order a bunch of jets smaller and larger than what is installed and have a go at it myself but these guys deal with triple carbs everyday, they'll have it purring in 15min. flat. What do you guys think? Thanks, Chris

Bart, the L28 that I transplanted into my 240z was purchased last fall. I got to drive in the Z that is was installed in, it ran like a top. I watched as it was pulled and drove it home that day. Yes it screwed up when I tried to start it, pretty sure I screwed it up with the true ground wire I put to the Negitive side of the coil. The tach? I don't know, I did see the tach working while the engine was running a few seconds at a time.

With ignition key on voltage at the + side of coil is 12.70v It just occurred to me that I have the original 2.4L engine sitting in the corner of the shop with a perfectly working distributor and Pertronix ignition module. Is there any reason why I can't just swap these distributors? I probably have another 3-4 days before the replacement HEI arrives in the mail. Chris

I got the alternator shipped to me from Motorsport Auto, and it looks brand new.

That's a great idea Jim, out of the way but handy.

Boy, it's nice you guys are so patient with me! Wiring harness side, ignition key off, white w/blk strip wire 0.00v Wiring harness side, ignition key off, yellow wire 12.70v Wiring harness side, ignition key on, white w/blk strip wire 12.00 Wiring harness side, ignition key on, yellow wire 12.60v

All, just tested voltage at the T connector alternator side, upper terminal of the T the yellow wire 0.00 v with ignition key on or off. Lower terminal of the T connector, alternator side the white w/black strip wire reads 0.01 v with ignition key on or off. This doesn't look good, the alternator is brand new Bosch unit from MSA. The power wire to the alternator still reads 12.66 v.