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Steve, with the ignition off I get 12.78 v at the battery and alternator, with the ignition key set to on I get 12.66 v at the battery and alternator. Does that say anything? Again, I have a light grasp on electrical and no grasp on electronic. Chris

Pete, the float level hasn't been changed since since it ran like a top last fall, fuel pressure is at 3.5. But that is worth a try. Steve, as soon as I can get the engine to run more than couple of seconds I'll know if the alternator is doing it's job. Chris

Zed, I hope that's all it is.

Well I have tried alot of things today, none of them improved the situation. Checked the muffler for obstruction, none. Took the carbs idle mixture screws back to base setting 3/4 up from the seat, set the static timing at 10*, no difference, tried the timing at 5* 8* 10* 12* 15* 18*, won't run. I re-wired the HEI an alternate way as per Blue's article GM HEI retrofit, no difference. The plugs were fouled with gas at one point so removed them, blew out the cylinders, burned off the plugs. I think I'm going to order a new HEI module & coil and start there. Zed, I can even keep the engine going at full throttle anymore just starts and dies almost immediately. Travel'n Man, idle jets are 60F8, main jets 120 (1.2mm), air jets have no markings,pump jet.40mm Thanks for the help guys, process of elimination. Chris

]Just thinking out loud here, air, fuel and spark are all you need to make an engine run. Lots of air, K&N filters with no obstructions. Fuel, even if the new fuel pump wasn't working and it is, the float bowls are full, I can see it with the jet cover off so there would be enough fuel for a 1/2 min. or so. Spark, it starts and runs at high rpm, could there be some condition where the spark is less at low rpm or after the key is released? To see the whole story, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/49271-engine-will-only-run-above-4000-rpm-carbs-timing.html#post429569 Thanks, Chris

No I haven't but I'm not sure how I would do it for 2 reasons, I'm sitting on the floor boards with my foot on the pedal but even if I had some one else to do that I'm not sure where I would start measuring with a multimeter in the seconds I have before she dies. These are the problems of an electronic deslexic working by himself. Steve, I might be able to remote start the engine and clothes peg the throttle open enough to keep it going, were exactly would I measure the voltage while it's running?

Please give me some direction,http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/49271-engine-will-only-run-above-4000-rpm-carbs-timing.html Thanks, Chris

Just thinking out loud here, air, fuel and spark are all you need to make an engine run. Lots of air, K&N filters with no obstructions. Fuel, even if the new fuel pump wasn't working and it is, the float bowls are full, I can see it with the jet cover off so there would be enough fuel for a 1/2 min. or so. Spark, it starts and runs at high rpm, could there be some condition where the spark is less at low rpm or after the key is released? Hope I'm not chasing my tail.

olzed, checked again, ran my finger along each spark plug wire 153624. Zed, no I don't have to floor it to start it, no pedal at all also no choke just like the last Z it was in. When I do pull the choke in the engine won't start. It starts beautifully right away with no pedal and no choke. It sounds great at 4000 rpm, no hicups no misses. The SK/OER triples are basically Weber clones with a few added features that make them good for the racing crowd. I also clamped off the brake booster hose with no effect . I'm staring at this sucker wracking my brain as to what is different now from last fall. During the restoration I have made some electrical changes, new 60amp alternator from MSA as well as their custom adapter plug. Also, the side marker conversion, parking light upgrade and headlight relay upgrade but I cant see how this would affect the engine. Even if I somehow screwed up the alternator wiring the engine would continue to run just using the battery wouldn't it? And yes the battery is new as well.

Steve, I don't know where a leak could be, intake manifold gasket is new and bolts are tight, rubber seals from manifold to carbs are new and bolts are tight. There is one vacuum take off on the #5 intake manifold tube going to the brake booster and the hoses are new but I'll clamp off that hose and try to start it.

cyl #1-215lbs 2-200lbs 3-210lbs 4-210lbs 5-215lbs 6-215lbs that's on an ice cold engine

L28 engine with triple SK/OER carbs, running beautifully last fall. Transplanted the engine into 1970 240z using the same ignition setup. Have not altered timing or carb adjustment. I did adjust the valves but only a couple were out. When I start the engine I have to floor it to keep it going, if I let rpms get under 4000 it dies with back firing through the carbs, new RX7 fuel pump working fine. Help please. Thanks, Chris

Please disregard this thread as I have solved the original problem, I'll start a new thread concerning the current problem. Thanks, Chris

Zed, I'm using carbs, triples SK/OERs. I haven't adjusted them since the engine ran last fall. I have purposefully disconnected the Oil pressure switch so that couldn't mix things up. I have the fuel pump running off of the blk/white ignition wire and it is running. It runs at 4000rpm but dies if I go under that with back firing through the carbs, that sounds like a timing problem to me but I can't see how that would be, I haven't even losened the distributor base.

More info, if I mash the gas pedal and keep the revs at 4000 I can keep the engine running but as soon as the revs come down under 4000 rpm the engine dies and there is a kind of back fire through the carbs and a bit of smoke coming out of the air filters but no flame. I didn't touch the timing from when it was running last but I did block off the vacuum advance on the distributor.

Okay, solved one problem, I removed the grounded black wire from the neg side of the coil and it starts right up but only runs for 1-2 seconds then shuts down. Re-starts easily but shuts down again in 1-2 seconds, it's got to be electrical, the fuel pumps works just fine. Chris

Trying to start L28 engine that I've just put into a 70/240z -rotor and cap are new -spark plugs and wires used but in good condition -newish Pertronix 3.0 ohm coil -GM HEI ignition module red and green wire from magnetic p/u from distributor, red going to W and green going to G on the HEI yellow wire coming from B (HEI) going to positive on coil and red wire coimg from C (HEI) going to negative on coil Existing black wire going to negitive on coil, existing black/white wire going to positive on coil. Existing blk/white and grn/white resistor wires jumpered together Spark plug wires are correctly numbered 153624 in a counter clockwise direction from the mark on the cap. Thanks, Chris

Thanks Jim,

Hardway, what diff are you using? I just did the same install with TechnoVersions RT mount and an R200 diff and I had to cut 3 layers of that bump stop off. Chris

I guess that depends on the strut bar. If it is one solid piece that is triangulated and bolted to the frame then that will stiffen our frames but welded would be better. Anything other than that is eye candy. BUT unless your car is a true race car that does nothing other than race... then it's all eye candy anyway. I love eye candy.

Still waiting for the oil pressure switch to arrive in the mail but have started routing wires. The existing ignition wire, the original one, that that triggers the starter solinoid does it just get disconnected from the solinoid as the soliniod is now going to be triggered by the OPS which is being powered by a different ignition wire? Hope that makes sense, Chris

I would just like someone to confirm that Toe in is the only adjustment I can make on an early stock 240Z. Just putting the whole car back together. Thanks, Chris

The hood and fender test fit is the real measure of major frame repairs and it looks like you nailed it, nicely done. Chris

Got the passenger door on, glass in Had enough left of the Murder Mat to do the inside of the doors and so the interior door panels never have to be replaced again because of rain I lined it with plastic the way modern cars do. The black paper on the inside of the glass was to protect the tinting layer during installation. I really wanted to put the panel on and finish it off but I think I should wait until the carpets and seats are in so nothing scratches the new panels. Somewhere on this forum I read about the little trick of wrapping the inner and outer door handle linkages in vinyl or rubber tubing to quiet them down while driving and when closing the door. When I actually slammed the door after all the fitting was done it was a nice thud, solid sound. Chas, even though we just had 3 days of ice pellets and snow, spring is here in a big way and that is really pushing me to get the car road worthy. I tried for a third time to get the hatch glass in with no luck, I don't know what I'm doing wrong, now I'm just going to leave it to the old guy at the local auto glass place. He'll have it in ten min. flat