grannyknot

JLP, so what exactly do you need SSnake Oyl for? You seem to be a very capable. $750 is an awful lot of money for new webbing. Just saying.

I have taken it apart and everything was very clean and in good shape. So I should be able to connect that magnetic pick up to a MSD 6a unit if I find that the HEI is causing the 4000 rpm stumbling? Here is that spread sheet, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread34192.html You have to go to post #19 to see the most current spreadsheet. So it seems I have a 1978 with static timing of 10*, centerfugal advance of 17*, vacuum adv of 18* and total adv of 45*

It came installed on the L28 I purchased, the numbers on the side are, D6F5-02 7904 22100 N4700 I came with a GM HEI ignition control that the p/o said hit the dreaded 4000 rpm stumble. Is this a magnetic pick up? Thanks, Chris

Here it is

"I have a friend who helps me with the pink slip"..... Keep that to yourself! Very few of us want to see this car off the road, but there is always some, keep it close to your chest - like poker.

Thanks guys, I measured it today and the thread is a 10 x 1.0mm in a 5/8" sq patch welded onto the steering rack pipe. I thought I would drill a 10x1.0mm bolt for a small grease zerk but maybe a 9mm will do the job with some JB Weld. So what do later steering racks do for lubrication on the passenger side? I'm thinking that maybe warm weather allowed grease from the drivers side to migrate to the P side without the need for separate lubrication or at least I've found that to be true of the rack & pinion steering rack on a Triumph TR6. Chris

I'm just about to remove the steering rack for restoration and noticed this plastic/rubber bulb on the passenger side of the rack. It appears to be a lubrication reservior and looks stock except I can't find it mentioned anywhere. It's cracked and only hanging on by a bit of material at the back. So before I break it off, is there any chance I'm going to find a new one? Is it even needed? Should I just seal it up and then re-lubricate through that hole every year? Thanks, Chris I can't get the file upload manager to cooperate, Ill try and add the pic later

And in case you didn't get the message, MORE PICS PLEASE! : ) Looks real good. New South Wales, so that is a right hand drive car? Just wondering about the mirror on the right side Chris

5150 will, I took apart my wiring harness from a 1970 Z just a few days ago and the unused fuel pump wire that you found back by the tank terminates up behind the dash in an unused T connector. In that same connector is a black/white stripe wire that goes directly to the ignition switch. To find it follow the fuse box harness back about 16" to a clump of connectors. it will be in that area probably wrapped up with blue tape. Chris

Well I just read everything on suspension that is pinned over on Hybridz plus the links within the threads...I need a beer. I also discovered that in addition having no bump stops in the shocks that the bump stops for the lower control arms have been removed, no wonder I'm feeling the road.

I have a stock white leather interior in my 1987 BMW M6 and I can say it is a lot of work to keep nice! 4 seats plus doors and surrounds. Did you do the door panels as well? Since you have ponyed up the big bucks don't skimp on the leather care. Leatherique prouducts are what I use, excellent stuff. I brought back a WWII flying jacket with this stuff, soft as can be. What colour is the car? Chris

The Tokico springs in the front are labeled 5020F the rear are 5020R. I just checked the Tokico site and these springs aren't offered for a 240Z so I have no idea what their weight is. I checked Tokico's search function for the part number but it just said "no results" . p/o told me they are 180lb but I have found lots of half truths in his discriptions. Anyone recognize the part # 5020 Thanks, Chris

Had a look this morning and there are no bump stops installed, I can't check the bump travel as the engine is out and the car is being striped for restoration. So, I'll get some bump stops in place when I put it all back together and see how that feels before I go any further. Thanks for the advice. Chris

Guys, I might not be using the right terms, I thought coil overs and sectioned struts were the same thing. Sectioned struts is what has been recommended to me. John, I have 1 as the setting, brutal! So as Jon says it might be the bump stops, I'll check and see if they are there or not. How do I check how much bump travel I have, is it as easy as measuring between top of shock and top spring? Chris

My 240Z has been lowered by p/o with Tokico illuminas shocks and 180-190lbs springs, great handling but brutally hard on my old injured back. I would like to keep the lowered stance but get a softer ride. The guy at a local Z specialty shop recommended doing coil overs (to keep the lowered stance) but use softer 140-150lb springs to soften up the ride. Does that sound like a good plan? Thanks, Chris

Nice colour, I've never heard of 3 stage paint, is it a step before colour or after the clear that makes up the 3rd stage?

Captain, nicely done! When do you go into production? I'd buy one just the way it is right now with no map, looks fantastic.

No, they are in perfect shape.

I hate it when the OP doesn't finish a thread when I'm going through the archives, so...the upward turn works! There was 7 layers of paint holding the the drip rail on so I ended up using one of those paint can openers that has a thin pulling lip at the end as a grabber tool to pull the bottom of the rain gutter trim out.

Hi guys, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4186 My 240z is lowered and has 15" wheels, does this bumpsteer spacer from MSA really make a difference in the way the car handles? Just putting together an order from MSA for other resto parts and noticed these. Thanks, Chris

Thanks Wade, makes perfect sense. I'm not a "set and forget" kind of owner so I'll use the tighter setting. Appreciate it, Chris

Nissan's FSM and Haynes recommends Intake .010", Exhaust .012" hot for an L28. My cam is cut to Crane mild street specs and recommends Intake .006", Exhaust .008" hot. That seems like a big difference, is it? Thanks, Chris

Thanks Arne! I love this forum.

I don't know Blue, your 1st offer was a set of SU's now I get cam as well as SU's, how soon before I get cash? I'll give the SK's a fair shake but I have to admit I'm leaning towards Bruce's SU's (Z Therapy). If I do let them go I will call you first. Chris