grannyknot

All you can really do now is remove the rubber boot on the P/S, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right so that it is exposing as much of the P/S rack as possible and grease it up well. Turn the wheel all the way back and forth to spread the grease around and before you put the boot back on put some grease inside the boot. It will be decades before it needs greasing again.

You can also use a lighter, the cloth wrap has some percentage of synthetic material in it so seals it self up with the heat.

Dave had some Safari Gold T shirts made up, gotta love this guy.

I've installed the Wesco belts on a couple of cars and I don't believe I used anything from the that kit.

They appear to be well made, almost bought one last year to solve an oiling problem but it turned out not to be the fault of the oil bar. It would be interesting to hear what his racing teams say about it.

And he's a 240z guy who is providing us with products for our cars.

I jacked it from the centre of the front crossmember and from the diff so didn't notice any sag or twisting, I wasn't about to use the regular jacking points. It's a safety inspection so first and foremost the structure has to be sound, you would have to replace the bottom third of the car to pass that test. The exhaust pipe is welded to the diff mount, the diff is mounted to the bare steel of the crossmember, no bushing.

A few welds are strong, most are not and look like they were done with fluxcore, rivets, fiberglass, undercoat, Great Stuff expanding foam in a few cavity's. The thing that stopped me from taking it on as a project is much of the metal north of pans is also rotten and hidden under layers of undercoat. I don't think anyone is making those panels. IMHO it could be fixed but it would cost 2-3x what you would pay for a rust free project car. I'm suggesting he pass it along to owner #14 and hunt for a better car. The owner would like to hear other opinions, what do you guys think?

more,

more,

more pics,

WARNING, the following images may be triggering to some individuals, caution is advised. This car rolled into my shop last week, the owner wants to get ready to pass a safety inspection to get it licensed for the road. It has gone through 13 owners. The pics speak for themselves.

I emailed him, he sent me a number to text him, but haven't heard anything back from him yet, I guess there is a line up of guys to rip off first before he gets down the list to me. 1971 Datsun 240z manual Inbox Christopher 2:10 PM (7 hours ago) Is your 240z still available? I want it! Please contact me. Thanks, Chris https://bend.craigslist.org/cto/d/bend-1971-datsun-240z-manual/7754666674.html craigslist 7754666674 3:50 PM (5 hours ago) to 3f6e57d407bd3eb5a39b2024f7b29d4f Hey Christopher please feel free to text me at 669 243 0228 Thanks!

I just did that, waiting to hear back, will see how long I can string him along😄

The Tanks metermatch seems to be identical to the Technoversions unit, same supplier I think and they do the same job but Technoversions is a few bucks cheaper. https://www.technoversions.com/MeterMatch.html

I didn't even think to check those nuts, glad you found it. I guess the fuel sending unit was dipped in CLR too many times, removed some coating and is corroding up quickly. I think the bottom of the hatch isn't sealing up well because the slam panel and all the supporting metal underneath had to be cut out and replaced, I remember not having much to reference to and the KFV panels were too big and had to be cut up into sections. If there is a gap it is probably right in the centre where it locks.

Brilliant!

Update, update, update. I know the car is on the road, fill us in 😉

Did he apply a ceramic coating? Looks like it.

Congratulations on the retirement, hopefully I'm only a few years behind you. There is a list of things you should do to wake up your baby from its long rest, someone will be along shortly with a link no doubt. Once you start driving it I don't think you will want to sell it, there is no other car that I can think of in the $20-30,000 dollar category that is as much fun to drive than these Z's Good on you for keeping it.

Stress cracks on both of the D/S front seat mounting holes and on the repair strap, I've never seen that before. Maybe the car did some track time or had a really heavy driver.

Don't show Tirerack that pic of the stacked springs, they'll deny your claim.

I think the seller added more photos of the underneath after you read it. It could be a very nice driver for sure but it really needs to go down to the shell and have proper floor pans installed to get rid of those "custom" pans. At 210,000 miles probably a good idea to rebuild the engine and get rid of the Weber down drafts, if the price doesn't climb too much more I might bid on it myself, it's only 700 miles from me.

Whatever particular mods you end up making on your car, can you please take pics of them and post them in this thread? There are lots of different combos when mix and matching and pics would help the next guy reading this thread. Thanks