grannyknot

Looking for some help identifying these wheels. P/O told me these wheels are from the 70's, but I have found a few half truths in what he told me. I can't find much on them in this forums archives or general google search. Dyna Lite is the name of the company that produced them, they are well made and quite light. I will be tearing them down for a rebuild fairly soon so thought I would ask. I have been through the big thread with wheel pics and they are not listed. 15" x 7" I think, could be 15" x 6" Also they are a 2 part wheel. Thanks, Chris

kacrow76, I have a driver side door glass from a 1970 240z that you can have for the shipping costs, I live north of Toronto Ontario. The window has the usual diagonal scratches for a window this old. If you are doing a good restore then this isn't the window for you but if it's just going to be a driver then it would be fine. Chris

Capt'n, hope you don't mind but I just finished this modification of MSA's fat shiny knob, at $21.00 I thought it was worth a try. I wish I had a wood lathe so made use of my drill press instead. It's not original looking but feels much better in my hand then the way it was.

Thanks guys, it's not what the seller told me but it's not a bad thing either. The car will be a weekend fun car so driveability is probably more important than grunt. I have a feeling that these SK triple race carbs are going to be wasted on this car, but I'll give them a go first. I may keep them just for that induction sound. Chris

I bought a used (15,000 Km) performance L28 a while back and just got the cam specification card. I was told it was a "hot" cam, can you guys confirm that? It is not a Crane cam but a Nissan one that was reground to Crane specs by a good shop. Thanks

Well that is strange, never seen a question yet that stumped this forum. I just assumed that one was for the 4 spd and the other for the 5 spd . The weird thing is that the bigger rusty trans mount not only has that flat spring but is built to handle at least 4 times the weight of the smaller shiny mount. The smaller mount weights maybe 1/2 a pound if that, the larger one probably 4 lbs. I guess I'll use the lighter one since it seems to be working for you guys. Thanks, Chris

I picked up a performance L28 recently and these SK tripples came with it, wondering if anyone can tell me about them, there is not much about them in the archives. I removed the cover for the jets and there are four jets just like webers, the two at the back on the emulsion tubes are 120, the two at the front are 60F8. The other two carbs are the same. Thanks,

I pulled the transmission and engine out almost 2 months ago now and I can't remember which mount was on the car holding the 5 spd tranny. The second mount was in a box of extra parts that came with car. Which one is right? Thanks,

I purchased one of those fat shiny knobs but it just doesn't feel good in my hand and when I saw this thread I got an idea. Found an old metric bolt that fit it, cut off the head mounted it in the drill press. Using a coarse file and 4 different grades of sand paper brought it down to this, not really original looking but much more comfortable and I can see and feel the wood grain now.

I still go to cars shows because they are a lot of fun, but I don't enter into the contest anymore. Too frustrating and ultimately self-defeating. I have my own windshield card I made up, it doesn't have my name on it just a few facts about the car for anyone that might be interested. I get to check out all the hard work other guys have done and chat, have a hotdog and leave when I've seen everything. It works for me. Chris

Oiluj, I have found similar results with late openings when testing OEM and aftermarket T stats in various makes but I almost always end up going with OEM because of the quality of the product. I have also tested my "laboratory thermometer" to make sure it is accurate, and it is. I always want more accuracy in the cooling system but since I have never suffered a summer over heat I have come to accept that 5-10 degrees doesn't seem to make that much difference on a street driven car. Chris

Just found out that I will have to repair the insides of the rockers as well as the floor pans. I will have the car shell on a a rotisserie when I do the work, which job should I do first? I'm concerned mostly about removing too much metal at once. Thanks, Chris

I got the afternoon off so headed out to look for thin foam and vinyl to restore the flaps in the heater box. I went to a auto upholstery shop and got a cold look until I mentioned the 1970 240z that I am working on, the guy changed his tune mid sentence and headed upstairs to grab some material, came back down gave me exactly what I was looking for no charge. Actually he did have a price, he asked me to come by after the car was finished to show him the final restoration, " No problem sir, I'll be happy to ".

Bonzi, I probably got the idea from one of your postings.

Got it, patience, I'll try it tomorrow.

How do you get them off without bending the hell out of them? Thanks, Chris

I haven't done it yet but I intend to screw the clip to the headlight cover then JB weld three rare earth magnets to the clips, that way as long as the sugar scoops are steel I can still remove the cover to clean but be confident that they won't fly off at high speed . Chris

Zs-ondabrain, for what it's worth, my 03/70 240Z T/S switch and combination switch are identical to your 08/70. Chris

I have done V8 transplants in 70s Triumphs and they were a blast, screaming fun! But they were never keepers, the 240z I'm working on at the moment is different somehow, maybe it's just an age thing. I'm going to put a built L28 into it but will keep the numbers matching L24 for the future owners. The highway is a battle field these days and you have to have a little something in reserve to teach those kids in their Kia's a lesson. Basically, it's your car, you can do anything you like to it. But personally I try to either; not change the car to the point where it can't be brought back to stock easily, or, go all the way and transform it into something that stands by itself. Chris

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1973-Datsun-Z-Series-Coupe-W0QQAdIdZ414509767 I think that bumper has been glued onto the back.

ES, my set up isn't as elaborate as the guy in SteveJ's link but it does work well with time. You can follow his instructions or many similar ones on youtube and such. I do not put my working piece (the part that is rusty and needs cleaning also called the cathode I think, NEG terminal) in the centre with the POS anode sacrificial steel all around it like the link, I put POS on one side of the bucket and NEG on the other side and start it up. Most of the cleaning action takes place on the side facing the POS anode but some rust comes off on the back side as well. I pull the work piece every hour or so and scrub it down with a wire brush, give it a half turn and return it to the bucket. I use washing soda but have used baking soda in a pinch and it worked well, but washing soda has the added benefit softening up any paint that might be on the work piece. After having cleaned many many pieces this way over the years I can say that electrolysis isn't the cheapest way to clean rust off something, but it doesn't remove any exsisting good metal. If I were restoring an old valuable artifact I would use electrolysis exclusively, for car parts, now I remove as much rust as possible with wire wheel or 3M rust wheels or any other mechanical means before I go to electrolysis to get the hard places to reach. First pic is the whole set up, second is a close up and third is a reminder to disconnect the battery so it doesn't boil over. That last point is a big thanks to SteveJ. Chris

I just took the hood off my early 240z for restoration and found a P/O had enlarged the mounting holes. As olzed says in post #4 the torsion rods pushing up in the front is probably why the modification was made. Perhaps you could elongate the mounting holes of the hood as well as the receiving holes for the sugar scoops.

Steve, tried your trick, it works. Got it going with a battery in between the charger and electrolysis tank then disconnected the Pos terminal and it kept on cooking. Thank you.

Scarberia! Why would want to go there? Bleak. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it.

My old battery charger that I use for cleaning rust off small parts finally died on me so I went out and bought a brand new one but it won't produce a charge to start the electrolysis process. There seems to be some "smart" circuit or detector in these new battery chargers that does not sense a battery and so won't release the charge. Some safety issue I guess, does anyone know of a way to defeat this detector or any other way around this problem? Thanks, Chris