grannyknot

Ben, hope you didn't pay too much for it. I know you're down now but it will get better. I have never re-built a Z engine yet but have done lots of other sixes and v8's. When you build your own you take on all the jobs, stress and ripoffs that the engine builder normally takes on. You are still saving lots of money as long as you truly know what you are getting into ! Think of yourself as a private contractor, you are jobbing out the stuff that you can't do, valve guides, honing, boring, shaving. BUT you must know what needs to be done, no one else is seeing the engine through to the end product but you. Starting the engine up for the first time is an exciting experience but you have to have done your homework. Good luck, I'm looking forward to this build! Chris

For floor pans you can't beat Zeddfindings linked in SteveJ's post #4. Thicker than stock with all details of the original pressing and stiffer. Chris

Zedyone, I guess this L28 build thread is almost finished. Before you wrap up this thread could you please post a quick vid of what the car looks like now, maybe the engine and then you roaring off with the full sound from behind? I haven't been with you from the start but I have read every post and followed the last few months. Thanks, Chris

But doesn't the R/T - Technoversions mount also transmit a lot more vibration and noise to the driver than the stock mount? I ask because I'm also thinking about the Techno mount but have been counseled against it because I'm building a highway car/show car that I will take to the track maybe once a year. A quiet car is a good thing for most of my driving.

Not the hanging type for the wheels dealers would stick on before the sale but the narrow metal baffle that sits between the inside front fender and the body. Mudgaurd is the best term I can come up with. Mine are pretty bad shape and I have been trying to find a source but so far no luck, not even ebay has any. Thanks, Chris

Sounds great! How long before it's broken in?

I thought I would also add a link to this guy, http://easternbeaver.com/index.html he does mostly motorcycles but alot of the terminals and connectors are the same for Japanese bikes as cars. I have ordered from him many times when restoring bikes and he is a first class guy.

Just to wrap up this thread, I just received my package from Vintageconnections and their 3 terminal plug is an exact match to the original headlight connectors.

Zedyone, I'm sure you have your hands full but there are 100's of us that are just dying to hear this engine roar. Hope all is going well, if not the trouble shooters are waiting. Chris

double post

Wow, thanks for all the replies guys. The car will be a street car while I own it with some very occasional track days. First off, acid dipping. I have heard a few stories over the years about how it's not a good idea, causes rusting and bubbling of paint but I have never seen any back up of those claims. Olzed, if you have personal experience with this I would really appreciate any info or links I could follow up on, or anyone else. Second, Zed Head, John C., 26th, stitch/skip/seam welding. I have to admit I kinda knew the answer to this question but not in regards to Z cars. Just wanted to see owners actual experience. Track cars do it as a matter of course and I'm not tracking really but I thought since it will be down to bare metal what could it hurt? But I can see good sense in what you guys are saying about exposing all that bare metal on a car that I want to last as long as possible. John, I see your point about not needing seam welding on a street car. Third, 26th, your probably right about the inner panels causing most of the creaking noise, I had planned on lining all the contact lips on the inner panels with tape on teflon. That way they can still rub and shift without the creaking. Well, it might work. Thanks, Chris

I use a product called Armour Etch, it's a glass etching cream that you can get at most hobby shops. This stuff will take the shankiest aluminum and brighten it in less than a minute. An old tooth brush works well as an applicator and scrubber.

I'm thinking of having the body dipped, the whole shell is submerged in a bath of boiling caustic acid. I'm told that nothing escapes it.

When I get the Z stripped down to bare metal would there be any advantage to welding all the seams while they are exposed? I thought it might make the car a little stiffer, maybe squeak and rattle less or would I just be wasting time? Thanks, Chris

Dan, just found this thread and read the whole thing, beautiful work! I'm just about to start this process on my 240z so it's great to see where the rust has settled in your car compared to mine. Your floors are almost pristine compared to mine. But then I have less rust above the floors. I'm planning on starting my own strip/clean/repair and resto thread when I really get going on mine, hope you will have a look at it and comment. Did you use the Eastwood spot weld drill or just drill through both layers? Chris

I can't remember what the teeth are called on the crimper, (the contact points that crush the flanges around the wire on the terminal), but they are designed for the older style terminal. That's good for us dealing with older wiring but I have also used the smallest of the "teeth" on the these crimpers for some modern wiring terminals with good results. Leon, they are a bargin at $40. I have used a buddies professional crimpers and apart from the colour they are identical in quality and heft. Chris

Alright Leon I'll bite, what's pascal's law?

Moonpup, thanks. I ordered what looks like the right connectors but will find out when they arrive, Hitachi 1960-80. Fingers crossed, I realized after I followed your link that I already had them on my favorites list. These guys have one of the best and by far the least expensive crimpers on the market.

Jim, I just picked up a set of those same WESCO roadster retractor belts ready to install after all the work is done on the car ( I might have gotten the idea from one of your previous posts) they very well made. Chris

Just started tearing the front of the car down for resto and found that the P/O has cut off the white plastic electrical connectors for both signals and headlights and soldered them together making it impossible to remove them without cutting. I would like to re-install connectors. Does anyone know if these connectors are still available, or where I could get them? Thanks, Chris

Jim, but if you still have the original badly adjustable/fixed length shoulder harness you wouldn't be able to reach that far to raise the antenna. I notice that you have a switch mounted in the dash plug just below the hazard switch, is that Dealer fog lights? Mine is blank, I might put the the antenna there with a pulse toggle switch.

5th, now you have me all worried again. I know your right, no one ever regretted stripping down to bare metal. Had a through look again today at the combined work load of paint prep and removal of multiple layers of undercoat, oil/sand, tar, OEM sound deadening and bad floor pan rust repairs by P/Os. I'm trying to convince myself that $3,000 is a good price to have the entire shell of the car chemically dipped in caustic acid. It removes all paint, oil, rubber, aluminum,rust...everything. You get back steel only. Sending the car out for complete sandblasting would cost just as much and wouldn't get any of the rust that might be hiding in the rockers, sub floors or A and B pillars. You see, I'm trying to convince myself. But then $3,000 would buy an awful lot of speed and handling. Still have a couple of months to decide. Thanks, Chris

sorry, double post

Well the condition of the paint is in very good condition overall, I just can't stand the colour it is now. There is some bondo on the rockers and around the wheel well but not much as a magnet still adheres. I will still dig through it though just to have a look at what is on the other side. Thanks E

That makes sense seeing that there was an aftermarket am/fm CD player installed. Well, I'll have to come up with something. Thanks, Chris