grannyknot

How thick too thick before you have to strip down to bare metal? My car has three layers at the moment. Thanks, Chris

Can anyone describe or show me where the antena toggle switch mounts on a series one 240z? Mine was hanging from the wires just above the gas pedal when I got the car. Thanks, Chris

Alright, here's a stupid question, how do I enter my 240z info onto that spreadsheet?

Thanks Jim, fortunately, I got that factory original thing out of my system a long time ago, give me the shine.

I'm shaving off all of the pollution control stalks, plugs and the rest of it that covers the balance tube to give it a cleaner look. I would like to relocate the brake booster vaccum hose into the end of the balance tube closest to the firewall (at the moment it's connected to the top of the balance tube) Just wondering if changing the location of that vaccum port could affect the brake booster function in anyway? Thanks. Chris

Can anyone tell me if the door window frames are stainless steel or chrome? The magnet test was inconclusive as some of the lower grades of SS are still magnetic. My window frames are badly scuffed and scratched in places and if they are chrome then I'll just let the chromers deal with it but if SS then I can start some heavy buffing. Thanks, Chris

I was 10 yrs old when the Z came out and it was stunning! Me and the rest of the guys I charged around thought it was the cats arse. For me the exterior style is a Z, Nissan built a great car but it had lots of flaws like every other of that era. They had to make a profit on each unit, so, they cut some corners. Now that I own one I don't have to cut corners, I can put in more comfortable seats in, more reliable wiring, a more powerful engine, better headlights and on and on. As long as I don't screw with the true beauty of the car, the lines, the thing that grabs everyone, then I am only enhancing the practical matters, not the essence. Chris

It is ceramic and there is a diode to the right, 10w is all I could make out too even with a magnifying glass the rest has worn off. P/O assured me the resistor had been removed (I guess not)and it was a modern Pertronix system, the distributor does have the Pertronics pick up and the coil is a 3ohm Flamethrower, and the car does run very well. Electronics aren't my strong suit, so I would have to get an after market ignition system like MSD or Crane to upgrade from the resistor? Thanks, Chris

1970 240z, I have started removing all the tape from the wiring harness and finding all sorts of things under the tape. This thing is wired between the coils Pos. terminal and the one of the two terminals on the side of the alternator, the alternator has been upgraded to the 60 amp.

5thhorsemann hits the nail on the head twice in a row! Dilemma is the word, I thank everyone for their advice but it's all like the archives. I was hoping someone had done a back to back dyno with SU's and tripples that could end the debate but I guess not, maybe I'll do it! I will start with the SU's and go from there, Chris

Mike, what ever you do don't sucked into buying an inline oiler, (they sold me one) keep it dry and clean. A drop of oil down the input to the tool will keep the tool working fine. When you start prepping for paint that's when the lack of inline oiler realy pays off. You'll be very glad you never contaminated your air hose.

I am planning my build of an L28 3.07 stroker with most of the bells and whistles and I will have to decide soon on either SU's or Weber/Mikuni's. This will be a street driven car with some track/autocross. I have read a lot of the archived threads and basically it comes down to the SU camp saying that SU's can handle all the air needs of an L28 and therefore triple weber/mikuni's aren't needed. The Weber/Mikuni guys saying there is lots more HP hidden that the triples bring out. So who is right? I am not in either camp at the moment but I would like to see the numbers, SU's are simple and easily maintained, triples look good and sound AWESOME but I don't want to spend $1500 - 1800 for great induction sound. Can anyone point me to a thread or site that can help me decide? Thanks, Chris

Good to know, thanks

1970 240z, will be dropping in a built 2.8L with Z therapy SU's, wondering if I can just use an electric fuel pump with regulator to 3lbs straight to the carbs with no return line? Thanks, Chris

Thank you gents, found a name a place for everything. Mostly firewall rubber gaskets and rear suspension bits. Thanks, Chris

Just a quick question, is the timing chain the same for L24, L26 and L28? Found a brand new timing chain still in the box from the previous owner and wondering if I can use it on my L28 that I'm building to replace the 2.4l ? Thanks, Chris

The 1970 240z that I bought this spring came with a bag of 30-40 little bags full of rubber parts, bushings, hose clamps and seals, all new. Some have Nissan stamps and part numbers and others just have hand written parts numbers. Is there an online resource where I can punch in these numbers and find out what they are? I will be tearing the car down to the shell this winter so I suppose I will see everything at some point but it would be nice to know where these parts belong before I inadvertently order doubles. Thanks, Chris

Chris, you can just throw in a set of new stock bearings in but that won't really solve your problem, at least not in the long run. Bearing journals on your crank and snap in bearings should be PERFECTLY matched. Listen to what the gents above are telling you, your crank needs to be measured and possibly re-ground before purchasing new bearings. Short term the new bearings may fill the gap of what was worn away but any high spots on the crank will dig their way into the new bearing putting right back where you were.

I'm sure it is obvious to everyone else but I can't find access to the section of "Garages" or any info on how to create a personal garage within the forum. Is it hidden or am I not seeing what is right in front of me? Thanks, Chris

This is a a good one too, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html

Stays shiny just long enough to cash the cheque, thanks for the heads up.

Anyone tried these, are they any good? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/FMM

Johnny, what I don't understand is how after 3000 miles that the rust HASN"T been polished off. Think of the resisting pressure from the valve springs and cam lobes that at high rpms are slamming the rocker down, rust is not very strong. A butter knife scraped sideways over the cam lobes would remove most of that rust. Perhaps there is rust on the valve seats as well, just thinking out loud as I type, I'm probably way off base.

I think this is what I was talking about, L28 Bore & Stroke Combinations presented by Jim Wolf at a Z Club of San Diego Meeting. Thanks to Donn Vickery for making this information available (Provided by Jim Wolf Technology, Inc.) BORE AND STROKE COMBINATIONS FOR L28 ENGINES HEAD # VOL. C.C. INT VALV. EX VALV. EXH. PORT PROD. DATE E31 42.4 42 33 square ex 10/69-7/71 E88 44.7 42 33 square ex 9/71-7/72 N33 47.8 42 33 square ex 8/72-7/73 N33/P50 47.8 42 35 square ex 8/73-8/74 N42 44.6 44 35 square ex 9/74-7/77 N47 44.6 44 35 round ex 8/77-3/78 P81 44.6 44 35 round ex 2/79-6/80 P79 53.6 44 35 round ex 7/80- P90 53.6 44 35 square ex 12/80-7/82Turbo P99 53.6 44 35 square ex 8/82-Turbo Hyd H/GASKET HEIGHT DIA. C.C. PART # L28 STD 1.25 88 7.60 11044-P7911 HKS METAL 1 91 6.50 11044-91MM1 HKS METAL 2 91 13.01 11044-91MM2 PISTON DIA MM. PIN HEIGHT DISH C.C. PART # KA24E STD.cut .5 89 33.5 0.00 12010-40F10 KA24E +1.00 cut .5 90 33.5 0.00 12010-40F73 Z24 STD. cut .5 89 33.5 13.00 12010-83W01 Z24 +1.00 cut .5 90 33.5 13.00 12010-83W03 Z22S STD. 87 35.0 9.33 12010-06W11 Z22S + 1.00 88 35.0 9.33 12010-06W13 PRACTICAL PISTON / ROD / CRANK COMBINATIONS NO. PISTON ROD CRANK PIST/DECK +/- CC VOL+/- SIZE C.C.s #1 KA24E STD.cut .5 L24 LD28 0.13 -0.80 3098 #2 KA24E +1.00 cut .5 L24 LD28 0.13 -0.83 3168 #3 Z24 STD. cut .5 L24 LD28 0.13 -0.80 3098 #4 Z24 +1.00 cut .5 L24 LD28 0.13 -0.83 3168 #5 Z22S STD. L28 LD28 -1.02 6.06 2960 #6 Z22S +1.00 L28 LD28 -1.02 6.20 3028 #7 KA24E STD L24 L28 -1.37 8.50 2949 #8 KA24E +1.00 L24 L28 -1.37 8.71 3015 ROD LENGTH PART # CRANK STROKE PART # BLOCK HEIGHT L24 133.00 12100-N0102 L28 79 12201-P3000SV L28 207.87 L28 130.35 12100-A8703 LD28 83 12201-V0790 COMPRESSION RATIO USING HKS 1.MM HEAD GASKET FOR ABOVE COMBINATIONS HEAD #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 E31 11.73 11.98 9.45 9.65 8.67 8.83 9.56 9.72 E88 11.24 11.48 9.14 9.33 8.41 8.56 9.23 9.39 N33 10.65 10.87 8.76 8.94 8.08 8.23 8.83 8.97 P50 10.65 10.87 8.76 8.94 8.08 8.23 8.83 8.97 N42 11.26 11.50 9.16 9.34 8.42 8.57 9.25 9.40 N47 11.26 11.50 9.16 9.34 8.42 8.57 9.25 9.40 P81 11.26 11.50 9.16 9.34 8.42 8.57 9.25 9.40 P79 9.71 9.91 8.14 8.31 7.53 7.67 8.16 8.30 P90 9.71 9.91 8.14 8.31 7.53 7.67 8.16 8.30 P99 9.71 9.91 8.14 8.31 7.53 7.67 8.16 8.30 I have a a L28 block and a E31 head and a N47 head to choose from, combination #3 and #4 look promising for compression ratio.