grannyknot

Somewhere on the web there is a list of all the best possible combinations for blocks, heads, pistons etc from different years of Zs. I know I've seen it and I thought I bookmarked it but now I can't find it. Anyone know of the chart I'm talking about? Thanks, Chris

P/U a whole engine yesterday from a 77-78 280z, the head is a N47 with steel liners. Is there anyway to remove those liners without destroying the head? From my first look it seems that the valve guide is the only thing holding that sleeve in.

That's good to hear, always nice to find a gem among the junk. I'm a faithful hunter of ebay, craigslist and kijiji, every morning I go through the ads looking for new postings and it is always a thrill to find a reasonably priced gem that you need. This weekend I'm going to P/U a L28 rebuilt, 5spd tranny, driveshaft, 3.9 R200 LS diff with halfshafts and hangers for $900 that I'll use to rebuild a /70 240z. 24 Ounces, when do you think you will have your finished?

Carl, I have the same problem as the OP, after going through some of the archives it sounds like a ball joint problem to me but I have read in a number of places that the T/C aluminum/plastic combo caused more problems than it solved and that going back to rubber was the best all around solution. Would be interested in everyone's opinion on this. Especially, those that have a well balance Z and what components you have that make up your suspension. Thanks

here you go, FJowners.com - Yamaha FJ1100 FJ1200 Owners Group, Forum, Worldwide discussion message board

A Yamaha FJ 1100/1200 forum I'm a member of has a paypal DONATE button, virtually everyone on that site has the word CONTRIBUTOR under their user name and the ones that haven't donated get told "3 free questions then you donate" There are no ads on the site. If all members gave $10, well... that's alot of no ads. Chris

Thanks buddy, mine just arrived in the mail today, nicely put together and cheap.

Those black plastic air ducts at the front of the engine bay that bring cool air to the footwells.

Carl, please stop spending my money like that! $6-8k, if I had that kind of scratch for just the engine, I would do a Rebello in a heart beat. But I'm afraid my street racing days are over and I would be lucky if I got that dream engine to the track once a year. I have to admit that your reply is the kind I wanted to hear the most. Over the years I have done most of the dirty work to rebuilt a wide variety of engines for other projects and daily drivers so I'm pretty sure now that I will rebuild the original engine using a machinist only when I can't do it myself, doing it that way I may be able to afford Rebello's kit.

Thanks guys, I have all season to think about this before the teardown season starts. I just took the car out yesterday for my first 200 mile round trip, lots of hwys and twisties. Got to say I was quite surprised by just how responsive and quick was, and this is a bone stock engine with 155K miles. I found elsewhere on this site a post that dynoed a similar engine at 105 hp at the rear wheels so mine is probably somewhere in the ballpark. I may just end up working on the original engine. Oiluj, I like the idea of the Rebello stroker kit. Lots of possibilities.

That's the one, FS5W71B type B 5spd. Thank you Carl

The 240z I just got has a the original 2.4L engine in it. Obviously I would get more power if I dropped a rebuilt L28 but was wondering if I did a full rebuild on the L24, stroked it, port&polish the head, mild cam and the rest of the bells and whistles, how much shy of the L28 would it be in HP and torque? Thanks, Chris

I have a 240z with original 4 spd, the car came with an extra datsun 5spd and alternate drive shaft. I there anyway to tell which 5spd it is? It's not the T5 I know that. Thanks, Chris

To you guys that have used wenol, is it better than good old Autosol?

Mike, thanks, that is good info. I hadn't seen that data plate and yes the engine is original the car, the numbers match.

Well, after a bit of digging I found that the L24 engine isn't original, it's number is 005164 and that seems awfully high for a car that is 1955 th off the line. Also started digging around underneath with an old chisel and realize now I have to replace both floors and rails. I should know better, if it seems to good to be true it is! To the PO's credit, that is some of the best camouflaged rust I've ever seen. Beautifully crafted bultyl and roof tar covering riveted sheet metal, a work of art. Oh well, at least it will get fixed properly this time. No more worries about abusing an original. Seems like Zedd Findings is the place to floor panels. Thanks for all the great advice, once I get the rust sorted out I'll need it. Thanks, Chris

Hi Gents, I was ten yrs old when the 240Z came out and I wanted one so bad. Fast forward, I just bought a 1970 240Z HLS30-01955 not perfect but a Very good driver. No rust, oiled every year, came with a file folder 4" thick with documentation back to the original owner. Lots of upgrades but none that are irreversible. It took me a bit less than a year to find one worth buying and man did I look at a lot of rust buckets in that time. ( I have fixed lots of rust before on other cars but it does get tiresome after a while) So I have been hunting through the archives of this incredible site and finding answers and options. Not really sure what I'm going to do with it. I thought I would strip it down to the shell and reseal and paint it some other colour than the Hugger Orange it has always been. Part of me wants to keep it bone stock original because of the low production number and condition and another part of me wants to drop a V8 or highly modified L28 in it. Just don't know at this point. There are just so many options these days... or maybe clean it up and sell it to some serious ORIGINAL guy and use the money to build a street/track 260z with all the goodies. Would appreciate any advice on possible routes to follow. Don't want to radically alter a good early car unless there is lots of them still around. Thanks, Chris