grannyknot

A couple of other parts finished, I had the front marker lamps in a citric acid bath for 2.5 days but the metal part of the bulb is rust welded to the housing which means the spring underneath the contact pad is probably disintegrated too.

It's the entire underside of the car for me.

Saving it would be great but parting it out allows lots of other guys to finish their projects, buying parts off of other 240's helped me complete many cars.

This is a very original car, hardly any mods and so far haven't noticed any missing pieces that get lost along the way. Started with some of the fun stuff, the front grill is in perfect condition, just needs to be dismantled, cleaned, sanded and re-coated. The steering wheel is coming out well, need to let the varnish cure a bit more, very humid here right now.

The new owner just sent me this pic from the race track, look at the G's it's pulling.

Doesn't look familiar. Hope he's not expecting much, that car needs a lot of work.

I just found this thread, outstanding fabrication work!

It sounds like you have already removed the head, a compression test before tear down would have answered a few of your questions. I have deglazed cylinder walls on L24-28 engines before and installed new stock rings on original pistons with good results but those blocks were only slightly down on compression and had consistent numbers across all cylinders. If your cylinder walls are truly polished with no signs of crosshatching then you are probably looking at a rebore. At this point you will have to do some careful measuring with a bore gauge to determine where your cylinders are compared to the specs, you also might consider picking up a good used L28 and installing that.

A few more,

Hey guys, back again with a new project! I'll let Dave fill you in on all the cars history but over the next nine months will tear her down and address all the issues that haven't been tackled already. From what I understand, over the last couple of decades Dave has been working slowly restoring individual parts and doing some body work. He has done some very nice work as you will see, for right now I'm going to take stock of what still has to be done and make a plan for this winter when I'll bring it into the shop for rust surgery. At first glance it has rust in all the usual areas but overall is a good candidate to become a very nice driver. After we backed it down off of the flat bed and into its spot, I opened the door and was greeted by that lovely musty old car smell, dried mould, stale gas with a hint of mouse pee, Glorious! I hadn't realized how much I missed that scent. Just a few pics to start with and many more to follow.

Have you chipped off all the original tar mat that was installed on the assembly line? Those tar mats were laid down on to of bare metal and very often when they are chipped up and removed you can find rust that has started underneath. That rust needs to be addressed first before sealing the metal up with primer/paint, then you could go ahead the a Dynamat type product and jute on top of that. Dynamat will take away some of the originality of the car but as you say will make the car quieter and reflect some heat from the engine bay and exhaust.

🤢

And there she goes to a new home, I'll still get to see it few times each summer which is good but I don't mind telling you I shed a little tear as she left.

I'm pretty sure it is on that thread. One of a kind.

I don't know if this is considered cloth tape, it's more fuzzy than that, anyway I've been using it a lot to wrap harnesses.

I'm installing the LED sequential tails from Easy Performance for the new owner. The kit is very well made and the lights are very brights but there is one major flaw in their design, the microprocessor that allows 7 different modes of sequencing can't tell the difference between you putting the signal on or you hitting the brakes. So you slam on the brakes and the guy tailgating you doesn't see brake lights, he sees the taillights going through an entire sequence, red and amber moving lights first before the brake lights come on, about 1.5-2 second delay before the solid, unblinking brake lights start. Confusing, dangerous and I'm sure probably illegal. The only way to have normal brake lights is to have no sequential signals at all, the very thing you bought the kit for in the first place.

And here is the newest of those wax/oil sprays and one of the best I have used, none of the product comes out of the front of the tip of the clear plastic wand, only out of the sides so as you pull it out of the frame or channel all of the wax goes where you want it. Unlike the Eastwood frame spray you can easily do an entire car with one can, Eastwood takes 5-6 cans. Gotta love SEM products.

That new base plate was made by @zKars

Other than on a race engine it's probably just a feel good thing but nothing wrong with that. That is what these cars are all about.

I checked all the things listed above and they are working again, not sure which one it was but it's all good.

Every time I put a 240z back together I run into the same problem, push the horn button and you get a click with a bit sound from the horn then nothing. I can't remember what the fix is, anyone recognize the symptom? Thanks

Thanks Chas but in this case I'm just restoring my own modifications, real restorers might take offense

Well I'm just waiting on the new LED headlights and the recovered dash to arrive before I can finish everything up. Engine is in, gas tank installed, all the brakes done and bled and I reconfigured the exhaust system so there is more ground clearance. @Careless gave me hand getting the glass in the other day, thanks again Raf.

The hood was the last piece to be done today, tomorrow I start dropping the engine back in.

I started wet blocking with 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500, finished that up yesterday and started cut and buff this morning, one more day and I'll have the paint done😊😊😊