grannyknot

She's gone now, moved to Chicago, sorry, didn't take any pics of that.

Unfortunately, yes. The inside rubber wiper strip actually rides up on the window bracket when the window is rolled all the way up. You have to clean out the recess on the top of the inside door so the lip of the rubber wiper can seat in there but if you don't run a bead of cement in the recess the window bracket can lift the wiper completely out. Not great design but it was their lowest price car at the time.

Ooooo, very nice.

If you have no other options then a rivet is better than nothing but if you want a permanent fix then it really should be welded, mind you, the new panel bonds are tremendously strong and as long as the both sides to be bonded are properly prepared then you could probably get away with what you're planning to do. If the metal of the original floor pan has any rust then you'll need to sand that down to clean fresh metal and be sure that epoxy seam never sees any water, seal it a couple of times. I haven't used the 3M bond before but comparable products that I have used recommend 80 grit sanding of both surfaces. Your car is coming along well, do you think you will have it on the road next spring?

I bought 7 pieces from them this past winter for the 510, very good quality and because the parts are coming from Colombia the shipping cost was the same for me in Canada as it is for the US, cheap.

They seem to be selling their dashes through other vendors now but I haven't been able to reach them to place an order. Thanks

Clever, just have to be careful with not over pressurizing the container. The new fold-able cartons are my new favorite, makes it so much easier.

Modify the head with a grinder of file.

haha, and thus the thread on a new gun acquisition 😋

I ended up getting a Devilbiss FLG5, very versatile and has a low cfm requirement, I had to buy the 1.8 set up in addition to the 1.4 that came with the gun. I think I paid $340.00 https://sprayfinishingstore.com/spray_gun/devilbiss-flg5-gravity-feed-spray-gun/ Edit, I just checked the price and they have come way down from what they were, https://www.ebay.com/itm/203638824293?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338830130&customid=devilbissflg5&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

Good question, hmmmm, I think they were white or actually a faded yellowy cream colour.

SEM automotive interior paint works very well. These are a couple of pics of a 77 280z I did a couple of yrs ago.

Interesting idea, I would tack weld the entire piece in place in addition to the seam sealer, aluminum or even SS rivets will corrode at some point. The oval breather holes I would leave open, they are very close to the body in that area. Maybe some oil treatment or cavity wax after the final paint job.

It also kinda looks like the rubber mount collapsed and the weight of the engine bent the mounting bracket as it settled down.

Thanks, I appreciate it. It's been a fun process.

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk Their inventory is so extensive that I think it might be worth the extra shipping.

There is also this one from diyautotune, https://www.diyautotune.com/product/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-4-0l-iac-valve/ I used this on a previous Z and it worked well, it also uses your Gm unit.

I could I guess but what would be the point, he's probably not in business anymore.

Same car with new paint.

So here we go again, Version 3.0 Actually this next version won't be much different from the last except it will have a good paint job this time. When the car was was painted last time I was so excited to get it back that I over looked a lot of flaws but with in a year it became obvious that the painter had cut many corners to save money. So I'm stripping the car down right now and this winter I'll take it back down to bare steel and build it back up again. The over paid painter assured me he epoxy primmered the whole car when the shell was bare metal the first time but I really doubt that with all the tiny rust bubbles popping up, I'll be sure to show all the gory details.

Here's a nice custom, " professionally installed" https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/oshawa-durham-region/1973-datsun-z-series/m2551289?undefined

You can epoxy it, just don't get it too close the spot weld cut outs, then do a small weld and cool quickly with compressed air, jump to the other side and repeat. Go slowly with time in betwwen welds and you shouldn't build up too much heat.

Not sure yet, the M cars came with bunch of the options as standard, I'm just glad the original owner didn't order the navigation display. If the ODO is over 90,000 mi. then they need changing, some guys have taken them up to 120,000 and been okay but others have spun a bearing at 80,000.

The money from selling the 510 was burning a hole in my pocket so I thought why not buy something that was not only lots of fun to drive but might actually appreciate in value. I haven't registered in my name yet but I took it for a little drive and I know I will never find the limits of this car, it does everything right. I will be doing some serious cleaning tomorrow.

"Ran great when parked over 35 years ago." https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/london/1971-datsun-240z-number-matching/1589333102