grannyknot

It shows.

You say she's not going to be entering any beauty pageants so white is a good colour for that, it is very forgiving.

That flat side anchors the bolt against flange so you only need one wrench to tighten it, it's very tight in that spot to begin with. You could modify a standard bolt to do the job but you really want one with the same length of shaft so you have maximum strength were it's needed.

It's a spoiler I bought used from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-510-parts.html With the valance off the car the spoiler doesn't seem to fit very well but the valance does get bent into a more curved shape when mounted so I'm hoping it fits together properly when mounted. I thought perhaps it was for another car but it does look the same as pics I have found on Google and the vendor says it is correct for a 510, besides, I don't think I have ever fit a spoiler that actually just bolted up easily.

I got the whole car seam sealed and yesterday put 2 coats of high build primer on everything, so far all the panels are looking pretty smooth but I'll find out this morning when I get the guide coat on it. One good thing about the Covid situation is I'm getting a lot of work on the car done.

Looks good, is that the primer that is on it now ? Are you going with the original colour?

It does look great, I have a headliner from Goliners for the 510 coupe hanging on my wall trying to get the wrinkles out, I haven't actually measured it yet so maybe I should.

I understand the dilemma guys so I set about to solve the problem

You have 12 days left, replace those modern hose clamps with originals and earn an extra $20,000 😀 GLWS, that's an interesting steering wheel cover, you don't often see you one that is so well fitted.

You would be much better off replacing those entire pans, there really isn't much left. A complete set of pans and rails are reasonably priced at around $300 I think.

What are the alternatives to skim/shim? Budget be damned.

Canada's version of that car wasn't called the Silvia, I think maybe the sx180 but for sure not very pleasing to look at.

All silver and body colour matching front air dam and rear spoiler will give the car a more refined even sedate look, front air dam and rear spoiler being black or charcoal will give it a sportier and more casual look (just my opinion). Two tone wheels to me always look "better", but nothing at all bad about a solid silver wheel. What a wonderful stage to be at, planning the final look of the car. I mixed it up a bit on my 72 with body colour on the front air dam and black rear spoiler, black mirrors, bronze wheels.

@zKars, this where you step in, drawing from your vast collection and layout a steering rack from each series with definitive measurements, what say you? 😄

A 225/60 tire, 7% larger than the 225/50, 23 mm gain on the radius and 4mph difference on the speedo, so not a huge change. Thanks guys.

Thank you Gents, good info.

I have a friend who has a 77/280z and wants to renew his suspension, at the moment he has original springs, original worn out shocks and 225/50/16 tires. Now he is not an aggressive driver, his spirited driving is still pretty tame and he's looking for comfort for Hwy/in town driving. At the moment I'm recommending to keep the original springs, install new KYB shocks with proper urethane foam bump stops and replace the tires with 225/60/16 touring tires, the larger tire will give him more comfort and the larger size tire will help fill the wheel well so the car doesn't look like it is riding so high. So what do you guys think, the new tire size is a given, everything else is up in the air. Thanks edit, also all bushings will be replaced with fresh rubber.

Pound away, the cast hub is pretty soft metal so try your best only to hit the brake disc, a couple of good wacks on either side of the disc should get it started.

Thanks Captn, so the turn ratio would be the same?

I should know this but don't, is there a significant difference between the 240 and 280 steering racks? Or more to the point can a 240 steering rack be swapped into a 280 ? Thanks

Has anyone tried this product or have an opinion on it? Wouldn't the urethane foam bump stops do the same job for a lot less money? https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/no-more-bottom-out-kit-soft-ride-version-strut-mount-spring-seat-kit-for-datsun-240z-260z-280?variant=30347098259565

CO covered it, the gains in flow to result in more HP are so small as to be unnoticeable, what you are talking about is the sort tweaking that is done a race engine to squeeze the last bit of potential out of it and you would only benefit from those possible gains at WOT and how much time do you really spend up there? If I were you I would reassemble with some molding clay or a bit of Plasticine at the 3 and 9 position, just tighten the head bolts down a little snug and cycle the engine by hand a few times to see if you have covered your clearances. If at anytime while rotating the engine by hand you feel the engine stop or resist, back it off and remove the head to figure out where the interference is coming from. The thickness of Plasticine at the bottom of the valve dent will give you a good idea of how close you are. I understand perfectly the desire to make the engine as perfect as possible while you are in there, it's fun just be aware of the law of diminishing returns.

I finished up the resto on the wheels last week and have left for them 5 days to make sure the clear coat was nice and hard and took them in yesterday to have the rubber mounted, I love square shoulder look on the tires, very aggressive. Thanks to @zKars again for putting me on to them.

As heyisrama says, most of your run in is already done so a few months of paint work isn't going to make any difference to your engine. I'm in your court when it come to engine break in, lots of short bursts of acceleration followed by engine breaking. The rings and cylinder walls are the only things that are breaking in so put them work. Nice to have friends with a paint booth😁

What do I know.😇