grannyknot

Whoa, looks like a Mexican Pinata, lots of tank restoration businesses cut the tank in half to do the necessary work, I've done 2-3 tanks now with the POR15 kit and in every case there was more than enough left over to coat the entire outside of the tank as well. You may not want that look but it's an option if you like, with the POR15 kit you must follow the instructions to the letter, the steel has to be scrupulously clean, warm and dry.

As you say it looks like part of an aftermarket A/C system, pretty sure that is not a Nissan part.

I haven't found any solvents that help on those original gaskets, I have an old Stanley paint scraper like in the pic, not much can resist it.

Looks like it was done on a milling machine! 👍 As long as the head gasket didn't go through a heat cycle by starting the engine you should be fine to re-use the HG.

Those burrs on the Woodruff key are are what I was talking about, a few strokes on some fine sand paper on a flat surface should clean those up nicely.

The gaskets on mine were practically glued on as well, just make sure they are smooth and flat before installation. I used some sticky backed 400 grit paper on a granite flat and worked both sides until smooth, as I remember one had a slight warp that was causing a small vacuum leak.

Hey congrats, I remember that auction, looks a good solid car, looking forward seeing what you're going to do with her. Welcome to the forum.

Oh there's no fear of that, I love the look of the GTV's, absolutely beautiful car and I almost bought one before my first 240z but I was allowed to take the car for a test drive and they really don't handle very well, the suspension and steering design are from the 50's. The Z is much more fun car to drive and was more affordable, not so much any more. I had my stint with British cars too, they certainly have their charm but they also have a lot of drawbacks. I almost bought a 510 when I was 16 but my folks wouldn't let me so I'm looking forward to getting this one on the road.

A small milestone, first coat of PPG epoxy primer is on, hoping to have the final paint on before the humidity starts in June otherwise I'll have to wait until mid August.

Just progressively finer sand paper, I think I finished with 400 grit then 0000 fine steel wool, the power was good even without the trumpets so anything extra was a bonus but the intake sound was glorious. I have no proof at all but I'm pretty sure the width of the trumpet affects the sound coming out.

. Similar problem but the opposite, when I was using SK triples the front edge of the chokes had to be tapered down so it flowed into and matched the bottom of the trumpet, the Ramair foam filter wasn't ideal but worked well enough.

Make sure there are no burrs on the damper that might be grabbing the woodruff key as it slides on, lightly go over the edges with a fine file.

You're lucky, I don't think I have ever seen a distributor bolt/screw where the Philips socket wasn't destroyed.

Here's a nice little distributor wrench I found on kijiji, would be great for the onboard tool kit. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/ottawa/datsun-distributor-adjustment-tool-new-old-stock-12-point/1496172792

From the compressor/air pump through the A/C condenser and then down to the 80gal tank which drains at the bottom, the air leaves the tank on the side near the top then through 2 water filters and finally a disposable screw on water filter on the bottom of the gun. The A/C condenser was purchased new for $40 and the old furnace blower fan I got for free from residential HVAC contractor.

This is a quick and inexpensive way to cool the air coming from the pump and drop the water out to be drain at the bottom of the tank. The A/C condenser is from some mid 90's Honda.

Just a word of caution about the amount of weight you reinstall on the car before it comes off the rotisserie, the bumper mounts can easily handle the weight of a stripped shell but would hate to see what happens if you reach the limit.

Those bumps could be caused by a few things, as mentioned above too much water in the air stream, it could be trash that dropped on to the surface or out gassing. What is under the Urethane primer? Did the primer get enough time to cure before the basecoat was applied? Your second pic shows that you haven't broken through the clear to the colour coat yet so it appears the problem is isolated to the clearcoat layers, but hard to tell from just 2 small pics. As long as you have enough clear on 3-4 coats you could also sand your way to the bottom of the bumps and still save the panel.

1 The alternator needs to be in place with a tight belt so the water pump is working and if the alt. is dead then you would be just running off the battery so get yourself a new alternator and have one less thing to think about. 2 The pic on post #7 above shows you the fusible link that goes to the starter, check it for continuity, if it is blown then it's a no start. 3 Yes there should be but the red light but it isn't important at the moment, it could be burnt out and the car will still start. 4 There shouldn't be but anything is possible with car that has been modified. 5 The dash gets its power through the fuse box, have a look at the electrical diagram in the FSM Shawn, getting an old car running again is an exciting project and you are obviously committed but when you ask a question and someone answers it you need to report back on what happened when you followed the advice you were given. We need that information to know what's going so we know what to advise next, if you don't give us that feedback people here will get tired and stop helping you. It's a two way street.

No you don't have to but if you have no information on how the engine was taken care of then it's always a safe bet to start clean, years of tap water and antifreeze can add up to a lot of crud. Removing the plugs are easy, just whack one side of it with a punch or old screw driver so the plug pivots and grab the side sticking out with a pair of vise grips.

You have a real mishmash of two systems going on there, it looks like at one time there was a fuel injected engine in that car being run by a MS but from your pics it looks like the MS has been disconnected and the stock ignition coil has been reconnected. You can probably assume that the car was running on the original harness before the car was parked/ abandoned but if the stock wiring harness is in the same condition as the rest of the engine bay you should probably put your effort into cleaning all the connectors and terminals first and making sure you have continuity. Does the engine turn over by hand, make sure it is not seized. Before you even turn the key you will also have to go through the fuel system top to bottom and clean out any rust and muck that has accumulated. That's a big project, as SteveJ suggests, download the FSM and get your multimeter out.

I have a hazy recollection of some party in the late 70's where someone had rolled a joint using that rolling paper from Big Bambu, I know I had a hit off of it at some point. 😜

If the engine is still running or even if it is not I've used full strength CLR and leave it over night then flush it out with a garden hose, if the freeze plugs have already been knocked out then as Patcon says a power washer does a good job.

Here's a modification I did to a socket to get at that main nut in the 4 and 5 spd transmissions, can't remember what the size of that nut.

Here is a 73 on Kijiji, asking $32,500 CND so $26,000 USD, https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/city-of-toronto/1973-datsun-240z-rust-free-california-car-for-sale/1554715385