grannyknot

Looks correct to me.

Those are rust stains from the rinse water draining off, I've never found any braze that looked like it came from the factory.

Found them, not sure these are going to help much, seems like only some of the lead melted off. 1st pic is melted lead that had pooled,

That rust hole in your pic of the D/S roof is just above where the roof panel and the C pillar were joined, it was soldered together with lead. Some have said over the years that it was done that way to allow some flex in that join, others have said that it was just the technology of the day, they both sound plausible to me. It is a complicated joint and difficult to open up to remove the rust. I had one of my Z's dipped because of the same kind of rust and all the leaded joints came back empty. The place I used baked the car in and oven at 600-800F to burn off all the coatings before it went into the acid tank. I'm still looking for the photos of that car when it came back, I'll keep hunting for them. Dipping has some definite advantages but the place I used didn't neutralize the metal very well and I was fighting flash rusting for weeks before I could get get primer on it.

dspillman, you post anyway you want, it's a real treat to to see photos from such an early car, bring'em on.

The brace for the rear seat mounts.

Amen, I'm sure it felt like a really good solution to a problem area back in the day but what it really did, at least in the Z's I've worked on is hold water right at the edge of the lip. @Broman, the seam at the top that you're referring to, the black goo did its job well.

Undercoat that is applied by Schutz usually has a more gloppy texture, I'm guessing that was done with rattle can undercoat. The coat on this car has the same consistent texture as yours does but has a bit more of a shine.

Those white felt rolocs would be perfect with some cerium oxide on them.

I think this is quickest, least expensive remedy, the repair really only has to keep the trans fluid in.

Good luck with the auction, looks like great fun drive.

Dropped the carpets in today, meh, they're ok, the back carpet is about an 1" too short so had to paint that visible area in front of the cubbys with flat black paint so it won't be as noticeable. I loaded a few heavy tools into the back to compensate for no quarter windows, hatch glass, or muffler so I could get the rear control arms torqued.

A friction fit sleeve inside the tube? And solder😄

That about covers it but it will take a couple days and lots of skinned knuckles before you find the right combination of tools, patience and luck.

Sure, it's just a length of thin aircraft cable looped around the pull lever that pops the hood open.

April 23rd? I think that is code for Aug. 23rd

Dave stopped by yesterday and dropped off the new carpets and mats, these were purchased direct from the manufacture. More detail than I thought there would be, I haven't tried them out in the car yet, want to let them relax for a few days first. The under pad is nice and thick. The mats are quite nice.

Have you checked the fuel hard line for obstructions, blown it out? FI clamps are fine to use.

If at all possible, try and set the backlash and preload with all 3 of the old seals removed and the new ones not installed yet, I found that new the seal held onto the front flange and causing more drag and throwing off the preload measurement. On the side axles the new seals around the flanges made measuring the backlash inconsistent and produced varying results.

I use a 3lb mallet placed inside the door at the back and cardboard shims between the door and the rocker.

I think it is for putting the string into the fold of the windshield weather strip, feed the string through the tube, place the tube in the fold, hold the end of the string and pull the capillary tube through so the string stays in the fold. @zKars has some photos of one he made.

I know about that one, no fun at all, now I install a secondary release on every Z that comes through the shop. It hangs next to the exhaust pipe.

You could but ... So you would have to remove not only the modern engine but the transmission as well and you may have to find a differential with a ratio that will work with the old transmission. Installing a clutch pedal and master cylinder or an automatic shifter and its linkage. You may have a bugger of a time trying to defeat programs for the ignition, most of the modern dash instruments would be dark and you would need to wire up some old school gauges for the tach, speedo, temp, fuel level and such. In fact, forget about using the modern start ignition altogether and install and old one with a key or just a push button. 240z rack&pinion steering is not going to be fun to use, if you stay with the modern hydraulic steering pump then you need to hobble together a mount to support it on the L engine. Electric steering would be the easiest route to go. You may have to scrap the entire ABS system. Depending on which L series engine you use, you may have to work a choke cable through the firewall. There's LOTS of other problems you would have to sort out along the way. There are lots projects similar to this that get started and never finished, or if finished have so many compromises that the end result is iffy. It's much much easier to put a modern engine in an old car. But yes, it could be done.

Thank you gentlemen, that did the trick, working perfectly now.

I'm working on a 72 240z atm, it has a standard Pertronix ignition and the engine is running well, no problems there. Before I tear the dash out I'm wondering if any of these wires will restore the tach, on the coil are the red and black from the Pertronix and one of the black w/white stripe wire going to the positive side. Three wires left over, 1 black w/white stripe, 1 green w/white stripe and 1 black wire that I thought would be a ground but isn't. I was going to try connecting the loose wires one at a time to see if I could get it working but I've fried Pertronix units before so thought I would ask first. Thanks