grannyknot

Or modify the cross-member.

I know people go on about SS brake lines being better but really they're not, they are better at handling abrasion from gravel and road debris but it has been many years since they "firmed" up the brake pedal. That may have been true back in the 60's but if you cut into a used flexible brake hose these days you will find a very hard nylon hose that does not expand, in fact it is the same hard nylon hose that is used in the SS lines. I know a few pro mechanics and I've heard them mention that they replace a lot more SS brake hoses than they do rubber ones, mostly because there are so many on the market now and are made with varying degrees of quality.

I know on one side or the other I had to use a hammer and give the axle a sharp rap to get the circlip up onto the splines.

Yeah, they all have the original rubber grommets, I never removed them.

Yeah, this the first Z that I have seen with those grommets, I guess they've usually perished by the time the car gets to me.

The new headlights arrived so that let me finish of the rest of the front, also some new badges. I did find the home for those 2 rubber grommets I mentioned back in post #239, there for the front wiring harness.

Dave takes his first drive,

That's in good shape, I hope the auction gods smile on you.

Just in awe of the detail that you are putting into this build, by far the best restoration I've ever seen. If it were mine, I would be afraid to take it out on the road.

Love it, very nice build and built by a guy who knows 240Z's. Updated but still largely original looking, the only thing I would change is the 17" wheels. Who knows with 240z market being so low at the moment but he should get $60,000. I'm not seeing any body modifications to deal with the extra power and having built a 240z with the same kind of hp I can tell you when that car hooks up it will twist, the torque steer will be a real handful, but then, that can be a lot of fun too.

That's much better than the original stop, using the adjustable slave push rod and the M/C linkage, your stop allows you play with the pedal height.

I'll do it for $150, there's bargain for you. 😉 That's not $10 worth of materials, they have no shame.

Sometimes the outer lip on the backing plate gets bent in and will rub on the drum as it rotates, it can sound very loud but you should be able to hear that when the car is up on jacks and you are spinning the wheel. Do you have a rear sway bar that might be rubbing on one of the halfshafts as they turn? Does the sound correspond with the speed the car is going, is it constant or intermittent? Maybe get underneath and check for anything rubbing on the driveshaft or halfshafts, could you post a couple of pics of the rear brakes with the drums off?

A friend came over and setup the carbs and tuned them, what a beautiful sound. I took it out for a drive around the property then realized there were no headlights so the tires were throwing gravel on the sugar scoops so had to bring it back in. The engine bay is done.

Well executed for sure, nice workmanship but for me this car falls into the category of a bodyman who thinks he is a designer and isn't. Most of the body modifications have to do with the wide rear tires, but unless they are not telling us something about the engine, an L28 with a lumpy cam and triples isn't going to produce enough hp to warrant the wide tires in the first place. So, it's a look, looks like a Japanese muscle car but doesn't have much muscle and it has lost the sleekness of the original form in the process. It's his car, his money and he seems to be happy with it so who am I to comment, but when I modify a car I have to justify it to myself, it needs to add something, just not seeing it here.

What? That's like free. Maybe you should start a group buy.

I've been trying to track down the source of some electrical problems with the signals and fan blower for the last few days and sorted the last one out today, everything is working now. Have also been trying to get the engine running smoothly, on start up the engine races up to 2000 rpm then stalls with spitting out of the front of the carbs. There is a guy in our local club who, like many of the members here, is an SU guru. He's stopping by my place on Friday morning to do the initial setup and balancing and hopefully that part of the resto will be taken care of. I have reinstalled the old rusty exhaust system because the MSA system that was ordered back in June is not showing up anytime soon, I'm thinking of scooting the car up some back roads to a custom muffler shop 20 mins away and have them build one. Nice and warm today so opened the garage door to see what the paint looks like in the sun.

yes sir.

I'm measuring 1.8" or 46mm

Does anyone know of a more detailed wiring diagram for the blower fan and switch? I found this one but it's too basic, there are 6 wires coming from the switch and I need to trace them down. The car previously had A/C and I think the wiring harness has been modified. ColorWiring240Z-1971-USA-Early.pdf

Success, I did the ohm readings and you can see from my chart compared to Steve's chart that the left #4 terminal and the right #6 terminal where not getting power from #5. I took the switch apart again and bent the #4 and #6 contacts down a fraction of a millimetre and I also put a thin spacer under the spring so the contact toggle would make firm contact when switched to left or right. It is working perfectly now. Thanks @SteveJ

Okay, I know what I'm doing tomorrow, go through the entire path from the switch to bulb and back. Thanks guys.

The behaviour is the same with the electronic flasher and the thermal, it wasn't yesterday, the electronic flasher would flash a few times then stop but now it is acting the same as the thermal flasher. The electronic flasher is a 2 blade. I like the ohm readings listed on your link, I'll do those readings tomorrow, check the bulb sockets again and the connections at the firewall. Thanks Steve

Here's a vid of it doing its thing,

April of 1971, the only thing that isn't stock is the headlight upgrade harness from MSA. 2 wire flasher unit. Part number for flasher? I dismantled the switch today, cleaned everything, there is only one ball bearing in that switch and nothing looked bent or out of shape.