grannyknot

I agree, I like to see the fuel too that's why I got one, but the problem is not the glass it's the cheap pot metal on either end, it has no strength. This is a much safer bet,

Thanks for posting that, I like the real rust myself, that green Z just reminds me of the antiquing craze back in the 70's.

Cliff, remind me to tell you some day how I almost burned my car to the ground because of one of those stupid glass filters. Throw it in the garbage where it belongs.

Guys pay thousands to get that look on their pick ups and here the expensive part of the rat rodding has already been done for you.

It will start to oxidize, you could just wipe some GIBBS oil on it and it would be good for months.

So how would this car be put up for sale multiple times in locations so far apart?

Love the crinkle finish on the VC, what tools did you use to grind and polish the MC, did you clear coat it?

I can commiserate with you, I have dealt with him twice and will not buy from him again. The vin plate I bought looks okay but the holes don't line up with the original holes in the door jam.

I'm not seeing a lot of rust, have you seen the car in person?

I have found my share of wood screws too but they are usually holding patches on to the floor pans. I was just going through your rear end suspension pics above, that is some sharp looking hardware, when you put the pedal down you're going hook up.

Perfect, thanks Philip. I'm glad I didn't throw away that short hose with the reducer. So here is the after pic.

Thanks! Starting to route hoses and checked my pre-tear down pics, is this carbon canister hooked up properly? Seems to me the hose coming from the tank should go to the nipple marked "from tank" and the purge hose should go to the intake manifold. Also, the 2nd pic is of the P/S kick panel, it is in good enough to use as a template to make a new one but is there in fact a D/S kick panel? My photos don't show one and I just can't remember any more.

Looks like the first thing he did was strip the orange paint off the wheels?

Lots of fun stuff today, slave cylinder, starter, alternator, fuel filter, radiator/fan, AFM, throttle body, injectors and fuel rail. Shinny stuff.

Quite a few of your parts made the cut, most of it was in better shape than my stuff.

Funny, I don't remember ever seeing that kind of money. I sure wish I hadn't sold the 1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70 now, if I had put a bit more detail into making it more stock who knows what it would go for these days. So I got the engine/tranny in today but before I did I thought I would weigh them, the engine by itself stripped down except for the mounts, no fluids was 304 lbs. With the flywheel, clutch pak, and transmission, 435 lbs, the chain and tackle were 8 lbs. The last pic is as far as I got by the end of the day, I can see light at the end of the tunnel.

Well just to make it more difficult, I bought two new front fenders from Nissan back in 2012 and both were black and both were re pops. Well done re pops but still not pressed out with the Nissan molds. I wish I had taken more detailed pics but parts were still plentiful back then and not expensive.

SOLD, pm sent

Here's a couple of pics for everyone who helped hammer this topic out and bring order to the universe.

Rubber overall, I do like urethane holding the steering rack and urethane rag joint on the steering shaft, it is a bit more vibration but it gives you a crisp turn in.

Damn right, there were times I when I covered head to toe in sanding dust wondering how I thought this would be fun - again. I scrubbed out the shop, covered everything in plastic, soaked the floors in water and it worked out okay, not too many floaters to file off. I wish they were new, I couldn't find any so I used the original ones that are in pretty good shape.

Thanks, I'm lucky enough to get get 4 months off each winter so for that block of time it's 8-10 hrs a day 5-6 days a week, I think I have about 2700 hrs into the car so far and I would guess about half of that is sanding and polishing. The paint is not perfect, there are flaws but I' m hoping they are just more noticeable to me. Aw shucks

All years of rear control arms are inter changeable it's just the 280 and maybe 260 rear control arms are beefier. While you are having a look through archives you could search differences between urethane bushings and original rubber, many members here have installed urethane kits only to turn around and remove them and replace them with rubber.

It could be Nissan code 115 or code 307, it could be anything of course but it sure looks like 307 to my eye.

And what is the braking like compared to what you did have?