grannyknot

And the rubber flex lines are new and not bulging out when you press the brake?

This guy makes some good looking stuff, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z260z280z-Left-Right-Outer-Bonnet-Hinge-Panels/293046290106

You're lucky that the over spray of primmer is pretty light and should clean off easily, you don't have to remove the the plate but it makes the job cleaner considering you still have to paint that area. A 1/8" drill will remove the rivets and most hardware stores carry assorted aluminum rivets and rivet guns. If the primmer is rattle can stuff then squirt some WD40 on a a cotton rag and gently rub the primmer, go slowly with not much pressure, the lettering is paint and pretty tough but still you want to be cautious. If the primmer is epoxy the wd40 won't be as effective but still works but you might have to use some compound polish or tooth paste on a soft cloth or Q-tip, they are both abrasives so be very gentle! After the plate is clean wash it with some hand soap, dry and apply a coat of car wax. After having lost a vin plate before now I keep the door, engine and dash tags in an envelope nailed to the shop wall in a prominent spot. This cleaning method is my own personal experience of trial and error and has worked well on 7-8 tags so far.

You don't have to remove frame and I guess you could start from either but latch end is easier.

Quality time.

The upper stainless steel trim with the squeegee can be removed by inserting a small screw driver in the end of the trim and levering off the top of the pinch weld, once you have it started lay something like a popsicle stick on the flat lip just below the trim to protect it and carefully pry up. The inner fuzzy is attached to the door card with heavy staples, while difficult to pry up the folded ends of the staples it can be done then fuzzy is pried off.

Is the gap issue at about the 7:oo position on the temp/oil gauge? Doesn't look that bad to me.

Yes but damned if I can remember who the guy is, I bought one and its very well done except it's white so you have to sand and spray it. I'll see if I can find an email for him.

The Honda blower yes, but never heard of the Kia blower, Thanks. A new excuse to hit the wreckers.

We all hate aggressive drivers but sometimes on the Hwys I drive you have to be just to get where you are going, the 401 Hwy north of Toronto I have heard is the heaviest traveled highway in NA, millions of cars a day, some areas are 18 lanes, 9 in each direction with the far right hand lanes always turning into an exit lane. So if you want to travel in the slowpoke lane you have to continually be merging left into faster moving traffic. So you have 2 choices, signal or not signal, if you signal that you want to change lanes you might find someone who will take pitty on you and let you in but if it is rush hour then signalling will result in most of the others cars packing up tight bumper to bumper to prevent you from getting in front them. In order to get to a faster lane or move to the right to get to your exit you have to time your signal and turning of the steering wheel to occur at the same time without giving the other guy a chance to accelerate to cut you off. It's kind of like a game of British Bulldog at 75 mph but I have to do it twice a day.

I haven't bought that kit but have spent thousands of $ with Zcar source and they are a good company, never had any problems with the quality of the parts or the shipping. I think that is a great price considering what it contains.

This will do the trick,

Dialectic grease as I understand it seals the contacts from further oxidation once the contacts are clean, it is not conductive itself. You can use this stuff, a conductive graphite paste that increases surface area but it is only good on single circuit contacts like you are describing. This paste is also excellent on freshly cleaned grounding contacts, battery terminals and such. Sounds to me like you have something else going on in the starter solenoid, there are 2 large copper contacts in there that need cleaning every 40 yrs or so.?

Or straight mineral oil just like the old time baseball hitters used on there bats, lets you still feel the wood.

Torque steer?

@zKars, do you have any blank calipers in your collection?

That is in good shape, just a matter of time before the 280Zs start heading up the scale.

That would be a labour of love, too much terminal cancer for me.

Sure you are, at least I have done many times and Mike has never spanked me yet. http://www.datsunzparts.com/rockpanels.html

Sean, so will this Hako muffler use the same kind of baffling as the JDM muffler in post #145 above, similar sound?

Your gap looks like about a 1/4" so adding 1/4" horizontal slot to the bolt holes would buy you enough room but then you also have to start thinking about the thickness of the door seal and if there is still enough room for it.

You don't get much better than that, sweet.

My vote is on the distributor but it could have just stuck to something and fell off when cleaned.

Welcome to the forum, we're all looking forward to your build. Zed Head said it all, the only thing I could add is whatever you do in the resto or modifications do it well, the best you can. The value of the cars are climbing but badly done repairs are easily spotted.

https://screenshots.firefox.com/oJnQuUfl3VytE0U0/www.thezstore.com