grannyknot

That's the reason for low compression numbers, it's like trying to take a full breath through a straw. An engine is essentially an air pump, a restriction anywhere in the air path will reduce the flow. That last compression testing gauge you used is probably just fine. All your spark plugs are removed for the test right?

Just before pulling the engine/trans combo, put a jack under the Diff and lift the rear end of the car, makes pulling the engine easier, a shallower angle. We won't get tired as long as you are posting pics

So I made up a two piece press on the lathe for shaping the T/C rod bushing collars, I thought at first my big vise would do the job but then ended up with the press on the anvil using a sledge as a hammer. The blanks are 16ga sheet metal, same as the originals. If anyone has a need I can punch out a few more, start to finish, about an hour to make 2

Jeff, when you did the compression test were the SU's being held fully open? You won't get proper reading other wise.

Mario, she's a real beauty, looking forward to your next post.

How are you going to handle pre-ignition or ping with a compression ratio that high? Will you be using race gas?

Arizona Z Car is selling the cast aluminum oil pan, $500 I had one once, very well built. http://www.arizonazcar.com/pan.html

@wheee!, need guidance, good deal?

Pacific Standard Time of course for Seattle.

Thank you smart arse

I need to make up a couple of the T/C rod rubber bushing locator-flange thingys, can anyone tell me what the diameter of the central hole is? It is somewhere between 13-20mm. Thanks,

Man, you are making good progress and your shop is so clean! You could try a a razor blade and a heat gun or since you are going down to bare metal a chemical stripper. Once you get that last 1/3rd of the roof done you could switch to a long board to find out where you stand with the highs and lows of the roof panel, side to side, front to back, corner to corner.

Especially with a sunroof, $10,000 to 15,000 is more realistic.

These are the door panels from the 280z I'm working on, they were the stock off white but were looking sad and faded, this is the SEM super white. I'm not sure why they call it that, it's really more of a light cream, it was the closest thing I could find to the original colour.

Or the ones that run an orbital sander over the stainless steel trim, the locks, the door handles

Oh I probably wouldn't drive it much, I just want to take it apart and put it back together, yes I was one of those kids, my Mom would never leave me alone with a multi driver.

The hook is set firmly in your cheek and you're being reeled in, enjoy the ride.

I'm trying to come up with a plan to scrape together $4,500 to grab this cute little guy, a gem. It's only an hour north of me. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-auto-body-parts/barrie/1965-datsun-quarter-ton-truck-super-rare/1397489416?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

I've only done this once so I may not be the best person to ask but here is what I did, the area I was working on had been primed with 2k primer and I decided to improve a welded patch, I sanded the area down to metal again, repaired the patch, cleaned it well and mixed up a small batch of 2k primer. Sprayed the bare metal area with a heavy coat, let it flash off and did a 2nd heavy coat 2-3 ft all around the repair, after it cured it was blocked out until it was smooth. Maybe it was beginners luck but it worked okay for me.

That is a tough one, depends on how long you think it will take you to get to the last area that needs repair, you could mask off all the areas that need repair work and 2k prime the rest of the car. Whoa, just the pics of your score, what a score!

I would buy this one, I imagine the speed bump on the hood is really needed to fit an L24 in there.

The rust on the exhaust manifold is thick stuff, sand blasting is best method and the fresh metal is perfect for header/manifold paint. All the other methods for rust removal work well enough on surface rust but exhaust manifolds are different, most media blasting shops will do it for $20

Go as far as you are comfortable with it. I think I previously said the doglegs were the worst area on these cars to fix, I was wrong, the worst place is the A pillars. There is just no room to work, all you can do is drill the spot welds and try to open it up, or cut it out and replace with an A pillar from a donor. If you take it down to bare metal there is a good chance you can correct a lot of the dent with hammer and dolly, many body shops won't go to that trouble and just mud it up and sand. But sometimes I've removed all filler to find the previous guy did a good job filling and now I have to re-do the same job he did. If there is thick bondo you know there are problems there that will need work, if the filler is thin and there was no bubbling of the paint before hand then you could leave it. Just seal it with a 2k primer.

@dmorales-bello, yes that new Jag is quite pretty mostly because they resisted the trend of adding fake scoops, ducts and wings that is so popular these days. Mind you Jaguars target market is probably older, well off guys that lusted after the E-type when they where kids, where as Nissans Z market is much younger, maybe looking for a bit more flash. @wheee!, We should start a petition! That white Z would make a great modern edition. Maybe loose the rear wing and put in a Porsche type retractable spoiler.

ooooooh, I bet that was fun.