MikeW

As I'm sure the registration numbers would be more difficult to obtain here in the states perhaps we can extrapolate a bit. How many 240Z models were originally sold in the UK? I'm sure some of the 152 listed above were later imported but it would still be interesting to have a rough percentage of how many are still on the road. On the other hand, cars are probably more "disposable" here. The other end of the spectrum is Cuba, where they still drive many American cars from the '50s.

Out of curiosity, does anyone have any idea of how many 240's are still left? I realize there's no way to answer this but even a wild guess might be nice. 1 out of 10? 20? I know quite a few members here can account for some that are not still around ... :cheeky:

I suspect it's just a buyer versus seller sort of thing. Everyone around here probably thinks your car is awesome and wishes they could buy it for $20K. When your house gets appraised for tax purposes you're angry when it goes up a bit. At the same time, if you decide to sell your house, you're indignant at the low offers you get because surely it's worth a lot more. I think we all agree that the $75K is a bit extreme. You're right about the $30-$35K the Nissan restorations went for. Prices are all about what someone thinks something is worth. A few years ago an 1804 silver dollar sold for $4.14 million. It's just a hunk of silver but there were only 15 of them made. Interesting enough, 8 of them were minted in 1834 and the other 7 were minted in 1857. Just like the Nissan factory cars they're reproductions. Whoever paid $4.14 million paid it just so they could say they have something that not many other people have. That and to keep it long enough for someone else to want it even more. Your car is the same sort of thing. Someone, at some point, will really want it.

Scott Bruning in his tune-up video mentions just slapping some grease at the end of the worn shft as a way of reducing the air leak.

See this old thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5210&highlight=bolt+size

Perhaps you missed this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6793

So what would be a good circuit on an early Z to interrupt? We don't have fuel injection or electronic ignition and with the hood open it's quite easy to figure out where everything is ...

I didn't say it wasn't important. I said it wasn't critical. The fact that many people use different things (and mixtures of things) means that what you use doesn't have to be exactly what Nissan says to use. The original poster was trying to figure out what oil to use as it related to a car that hadn't run in 13 years. I'd try to get it running before tweaking the oil.

Well. it's not going to take a lot of your time, just your money. It looks like ZTherapy will charge you $950 for a pair of rebuilt round tops. MSA charges $600 plus a $300 core charge for the same. Your other option would be to find a used pair and rebuild them yourself (trading time for money). Perhaps someone around here has some.

I'm guessing you're thinking about ZTherapy (which used to be in Idaho but was sold to someone in Oregon) This particular page should be of interest to you: http://www.ztherapy.com/technical_stuff/spotterguides/zcar/240spotter.htm

The oil in the carbs is probably the least of your problems (since we're talking about flat tops) but Nissan recommended 20 weight oil. Some people use ATF and others use something else. It's not really critical as the oil is just used to dampen the movement of the piston up and down. A lighter oil allows the piston to move faster which increases throttle response.

Wow, I sure hope not ...

It appears to me that your seats used to have the webbing but I'm sure that someone with more experience will have the definative answer.

http://www.worldmessenger.20m.com/brits.html

MSA sells both the Synchrotester and the Color Tune: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TZS&Category_Code=TE

http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,82432,00.html

Well, there were those two drunk driving charges in his Porsche in Aspen.

While I haven't used them it appears as though they replace the entire floor: "The floors in length start at the front seam where it meets the firewall and continues back past the rear seam and up the angled bend behind the seat." http://www.datsunzparts.com/FLOORS1B.JPG

I think he was a fairly good pilot; perhaps a little too enthusiastic. He made a stupid mistake. I suspect some of us have done similar things with our cars. You're so excited about taking it for a test drive after getting it running good that you forgot to remove all of the tools from under the hood, etc. http://www.airsafe.com/events/celebs/denver.htm

Don't believe everything you're told: http://www.snopes.com/music/artists/denver.htm

On the jack itself is a little diagram that shows how to place it. There's a vertical ridge that runs along the edge of the car and it has some semi-circular notches that indicate the proper jack position.

Perhaps, but remember that in the 60's and 70's "Made in Japan" was equivalent to today's "Made in China", "Made in Taiwan", etc.

I can't tell from the pictures; what the brand name? Unless it's a Hitachi I would have to guess that it's aftermarket.

That doesn't sound any different than POR-15. To get a surface that is "free of oil and dirt" you'll need something like the POR-15 "marine clean". If the surface is clean fresh metal (not already rusted) you'll need something like "Metal Ready" to give the surface more to grip. Unless this product can also be used on clean, smooth metal it seems to be the same. How much cheaper is it?

I'm not sure where you live but the following only applies to US models. The fact that you have a Land Rover makes me guess that you might be an Australian member. In the US the 260Z model was only available in 1974 and had two distinct versions at that. In other locations I believe the 260Z was produced longer. The bumpers are obvious differences. They generally got bigger as the years went by. The other differences involve front turn signals and rear turn signals. The 240Z is easily distinguished by the white backup lights that are in the lower inside corners of the tail lights. Both the 260Z and 280Z have rectangular backup lights that are separate and closer to the license plate. The 240Z and early 260Z shares the same curved front turn signals that are beneath the front bumper on each front corner. The later 260Z and 280Z models have front turn signals above the bumper in the grill area. The 240Z has a "Datsun" badge at the bottom of each front fender whereas the 260Z has a 260Z badge and the 280Z has a 280Z badge in that location. 1970 240Z models have the further distinction of rectangular vents in the rear hatch beneath the window and a 240Z badge on the quarter panel near where it meets the roof. Later cars moved the vents to that location and partially covered them up with a round 'Z' badge. You might want to just browse the gallery here to see pictures; I'm not sure how well my descriptions have come across.