MikeW

For the benefit of everyone on the west side of the Atlantic ocean, a torch is really just a flashlight. At first I was thinking he wanted you to burn off some undercoating or something like that ...

Well, my car is about ready at the shop (close to $7000 in mechanical work alone) and I need to think about insurance before driving it much. I currently only have liability with Allstate. I've looked at previous discussions of this topic and am guessing I need "agreed upon value" insurance. I called Hagery and talked to a nice young lady. After several minutes of discussion about how the value would be agreed upon it seems that they're of no use to me. They seem to think that you're only going to go to car shows and drive on Sunday afternoons. No trips to work or the grocery store are allowed (well, I think she actually said I could drive to work twice a year). I'm not putting this much money into a car that I can only drive under such restrictions. I've tried calling the ANPAC people as others have suggested but only get a busy signal right now. Their web page only lists "stated value" insurance anyhow. What do the rest of you guys do? If you put $15000 into a car that is only worth half of that when you're done, Ok, I can accept that. Insurance companies probably don't want to give you more than you could have sold it for. I can't accept not being able to drive it when I please (understanding that there's probably a 3-5k miles a year limitation). Any other suggestions?

You're going to want to use plenty of penetrant like "liquid wrench" or WD40. The most likely reason it broke was that the threads are really stuck. There are various extraction tools where you drill a properly-sized hole in the middle of the broken bolt and then insert the tool. The most common form is tapered and threaded in a reverse spiral from normal threads. As you screw it into the drilled hole (counter clockwise) it starts to bite in and will eventually back the broken bolt out. However, if there's not enough penetrant in place you can end up breaking the extraction tool which is hard steel and not easy to drill out.

Ed - perhaps you could simply upload pictures to your gallery instead of attaching them to messages.

Dero: perhaps you could simply upload all of your pictures to your gallery instead of attaching them to messages ...

I certainly appreciated your effort. It makes me want to go and pull off some interior panels. I apologize if my question to Victor got him off track ...

Out of curiousity, what's the VIN on this car? Mine was also manufactured in 9/71 and is HLS30-47431.

I suspect it's whenever an administrator gets around to looking at them. The few that I've uploaded have been approved within a day but since it's obviously not an automatic thing there are probably no guarantees.

After reading the reply from 2ManyZs, I'm not sure you guys are talking about the same part. The MSA catalog currently lists the "Lower Control Arm, Right 70-78" for $49.86. The equivalent part on the left size is listed as not currently available. The "Tension Rod, Left/Right 70-78" is available for $110.15. In either case, the answer to your question is "Yes".

I know it was a joke; I just didn't want our international friends thinking our cheap gas was somehow because we bought the oil for much less than them. The avatar? Couldn't think of anything good but wanted something. I just went through my many vacation pics and found one that I think is cool. It's actually someone surfing under the Golden Gate bridge. You can't really see it that well in the 150x150 image, but here's the original (which you can click on for the full size view): http://server7.aps-soft.com/Williams/SanFran/Detail-IMG_1465-JPG.html

Actually, the main reason that fuel is so much more expensive in other countries is the high taxes placed on the fuel. That's not exactly a bad thing if the aim is to discourage driving. Just imagine how bad London traffic would be if gas was suddenly 1/4 of the current cost.

No picture. "These rims" was in reference to the subject, not a picture. Here's a nice picture of a 16" Panasport as well as a picture of them on a 240Z: http://www.panasport.com/fs16.html

Most of the coin-operated do-it-yourself car washes have an "engine cleaner" mode. I used to wash my 240 a lot that way (15+ years ago, anyhow). I was always careful around the distributor and never had a problem. My engine is actually pretty clean right now. See the pictures I took of it this morning in my gallery. <g>

Since the front ends don't even appear to be available anyhow you're probably going to want to keep what you've got. As I said, I don't have any experience with 280 bumpers but it does look like you might be able to nudge it back into place.

That's actually what's called the bumper "end". The guards are the small vertical blocks in the front and rear (2 each) that help protect the bumper.

I got mine straigntened and rechromed by a local shop but they actually sent them elsewhere to be done. It took about 5 weeks because of a backlog and shipping. The actual work is fairly labor intensive - that's where the cost is. I'm sure you can find something similar in your area. I don't know much about later models and the bumper guards. In fact, I'm planning on just leaving my guards off but getting new rubber strips.

I just got my front and rear 240 bumpers straightened and rechromed for about $600. There's a photo in my gallery ...

You're not going to like it when the catalog arrives: Front Face bar: $575.10 Bumper end, Left - NA Bumper end, Right- NA Mounting bracket, Left - $193.59 Mounting bracket, Right - $193.59 Guard, Left - NA Guard, Right - NA Filler, Center - NA Rear Bumper end, Left - $118.88 Bumper end, Right - $118.88 Face bar - NA Guard, Left - NA Guard, Right - NA Mounting bracket, Left - $240.64 Mounting bracket, Right - $240.64 Filler - $85.66

MSA lists a '72 fusebox (part 12-4211) in their current catalog for $88.41. www.zcarparts.com

I think that's just to differentiate the early 280's (75&76 which appear to be the same as the 240 and 260) from the later 280's (77&78).

At $14 each these don't seem like just the refills: http://www.courtesyparts.com/s30_wipers.html However, they might not be the same as the originals but I'm sure they'd be good enough for me.