MikeW

I can't be too specific about a 280Z but there's always a valve that controls whether hot coolant flows through the heater core. I recall that people here have mentioned that the 280Z uses vacuum to control components instead of a simple cable but I don't know if that applies to the valve itself or just the air flow controls. I doubt there is anything electrical involved (relay or rheostat).

Of all the locks that one is the easiest to remove. Just take off the inside hatch cover and slide the retaining clip off of the back side of the lock. It will then pop right out and you can take it to a locksmith.

The only specialty tool you need to pull the head is a 10mm allen wrench socket for the head bolts. I bought this one years ago when I replaced my head gasket. Be very careful wedging the timing chain tensioner; I learned that the hard way. Even though the FSM shows a special tool you can make a wedge out of a block of wood or use a screwdriver handle as others have suggested. You'll also need a torque wrench to properly reassmble.

Have the later round vented quarter panel emblems ever been plastic?

Ok, I've done some reading on the web and understand it a little better now. It seems that a vacuum leak is most apparent at idle. The leak can effectively cause the engine to run too lean.

I'm glad you got it figured out and that it ended up being simple and cheap. I recall that when I drove my car home from the paint shop the brakes weren't working well. I did a lot of downshifting. When I got home the problem was obvious: the big vacuum line was completely disconnected from the brake booster. I don't recall, however, that there were any running issues. I only understand enough of this to be dangerous but can someone explain it to me? I could see where a vacuum leak would cause low vacuum throughout and affect the brakes and the vacuum advance on the distributor but why would it cause the engine to want to knock off at idle?

In my limited experience a fuel supply problem tends to present itself under heavy load such as acceleration or going up a hill. At idle very little fuel is needed so it may run fine with a weak pump or clogged filter. The fact that you're even having issue at idle make me think electrical as well. I think looking at the plugs will be informative. You might have one or two fouled plugs which would cause a bad idle but given enough extra fuel the other cylinders have enough power to allow you to still drive. The backfire could actually be an afterfire in the exhaust system as a result of a spark that only works periodically - igniting fuel that didn't ignite on previous cycles.

That looks like the brake proportioning valve and is in the proper general vicinity but it's also different than what I remember. Where did the rubber lines that you pulled off go? Do your brakes work?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32189

Since it's been a few days shy of 4 years since 73 challenger even logged in I suspect it may be too late. * Last Activity: 10-12-2004 03:33 PM * Join Date: 10-08-2004

Just for clarification the early headlight buckets are made out of plastic/fiberglass or some such material. Later models had them made out of stamped steel. The switchover was apparently for the 1972 model year although my early '72 (9/71) has the original type. Either style should work but if you're interested in originality you'll need the early type for a '71.

Funny that you mention homework. I thought this section was particularly funny: Wednesday comes, my car isn't ready. He said he had food poisoning. People get sick, that's life. I understood, and was told my car would be ready by Friday/Saturday 9/19 - 9/20. Thursday, he told me via AIM he was stuck doing homework. Still reassured my car would be ready by Friday/Saturday.

I agree with Dave. Just sit back and take a break from it all. You've got the space to just let the car sit until you have the inclination to do some more work on it. If you feel like you're in over your head on something then just pay someone else to fix it. It seems to me that talk of parting it out or putting it on eBay is an overreaction to the frustration.

I made it to the show and enjoyed talking to people and looking at cars. Doc, thanks for the prodding; it was good talking to you.

I'd bleed it before anything else. That may be all you have to do.

The part circled in red is the float bowl. The principle of operation here is quite simple. There's a float in the bowl. It's like the tank on a toilet. When the fuel level in the bowl drops the float drops which opens a needle valve which lets more fuel in. As the fuel rises the float causes the valve to cut of the supply. The net effect of this is to keep a constant level of fuel in the bowl which is then delivered to the carb through the rubber hose at the very bottom. The fact that your bowl was completely dry indicates a supply problem. I'd first check the other bowl. If it's full then the problem is not with the fuel pump or supply line from the tank, etc., but rather limited to the carb that's empty. The needle valve at the top of the bowl - it's screwed into the lid - can become stuck in the closed position which prevents that bowl from filling up at all.

I can't remember the last time I got a telemarketer call. I think the do not call list here in the US must have had some effect. It may simply be that telemarketing becomes less attractive with the list, not that the telemarketers actually pay attention to the list. Something that has an even bigger impact, in my view, is "anonymous call block". I don't know if that feature is available with all phone systems but it eliminates getting calls from anyone who's not willing to provide caller ID when they call you. About the only calls we get are from charities. I don't know if it's because they're exempt or if we've given in the past. Ah, yes, it is my birthday. I'd actually forgotten about it until late last night when I got an email from my mother ...

How to handle a telemarketer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un_PjRXV5l8&eurl=

The resistance is not only normal but it's the desired effect. The purpose of the oil is to keep the piston from moving too fast. The weight of the oil obviously matters here. The factory recommends 20W but people have claimed success with other weights. This is what I've used: http://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/ Not only is it 20W but it comes in a very convenient bottle that makes it easy to add just the right amount to the carbs as it doesn't take much. It's also readily available in stores whereas if you go to an auto parts place looking for a quart of 20W you'll have trouble finding it.

I'm clearly in way over my head here but it seems like a simple ratio. If ambient pressure at your altitude is half of that at sea level then I'd expect your compression to be half as well. Based on the chart here it looks to me like your pressure at 6400ft (about 11.5 PSI) is about 80% of sea level (14.7 PSI). From that I'd guess that your engine compression at sea level would be closer to 150, exactly what you came up with yourself. The fact that all of the cylinders are close and the leakage tester is good tells me that you're in good shape. On the other hand, performance at that altitude is still going to suffer without something like a turbocharger. P51 fans can attest to the difference at altitude between the Allison and supercharged Merlin engine.

Have you done a compression test to see if a rebuild is warranted?

It was only driven 5 miles before going back to the shop for yet more work? I think I'd put up with sloppy steering for a while. What's the "Ball" part anyhow? # Invoice # 12813 Mileage: 148,991 Rack & Pinion and Ball # Invoice # 12794 Mileage: 148,986 replaced clutch slave

I wish this was my garage.

I'm the one who questioned that; he was replying to me. I'd forgotten that the lights weren't part of the connector.

My advice would be to contact some of our other members living in Germany for more than just the headlight question. I'm sure they could provide much good advice regarding what it takes to import a car as well as local parts availability, etc. For an example of what can happen with importing a car from the US to Europe just find any post by "mull".