MikeW

Any idea how many miles are on the chain? There are 3 adjustment positions on the camshaft sprocket itself that can be used to compensate for chain stretch. You may not need to buy anything other than new gaskets for when you put it back together. All of the service manuals (factory and after market) cover this.

A full tank of fuel adds almost exactly 100 pounds: 6.216(lb/gal) * 16 gal = 99.456 lbs Premium fuel is a little heavier: 6.35(lb/gal) * 16 gal = 101.6 lbs If the dealer-added A/C is like my old York compressor and bracket (which alone just weighed in at 31.6 lbs) then that's probably another 50lbs total when you include the condenser, evaporator, lines, etc. If you subtract this extra 150lbs from your 2539 you get 2389 lbs which seems about right. My 72 FSM shows the 2350 that you already mentioned and I would expect the 73 to be just a bit heavier.

Here's the direct link to the paint page: http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/240_misc-parts.html

While it would certainly improve durability, aren't most bedliner coatings quite thick and textured?

The only complaint about them is that someone specifically signed up for their mailing list by providing an e-mail address, and later got spam. I can't see how they can claim the spam was a directly a result of DatsunRestore.com unless they generated a unique email just for that site. If it was the site's fault it may be that they accidentally sent out the email notification with all customers on the "to" or "cc" line which is a bad thing to do. How many times have friends and family forwarded something to you and 20 other people at the same time? That's a sure way to get your email address in the wild. They should only "bc" you. Any any case just visiting the site to look at pictures of the webbing can't hurt you. It's not like there's any malware or phishing attempt involved. Here's a seat webbing kit at Black Dragon (but for more money): http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0030.asp

Here's a picture of the car from our own gallery where it won "Best of Show" at the 2006 Motorsport Auto Nationals: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=20834&cat=3316

Since the air dam is urethane the alignment may not be a big deal as the whole thing flexes. The bolts that hold it on are hidden behind the bumper and it may be a matter of loosening them a bit and sliding the dam forward. You could enlarge or even drill a new hole if needed. I'd be far more concerned about alignment of the doors or other metal panels. That being said, since the fix is so easy I don't see why it wasn't done before taking the ad pictures. I'd also be surprised for it to get anywhere near the asking price.

In post #3 Arne provided the answer: the elastic webbing that supports the seat cushion. The webbing deteriorates over time leaving the useless melted mess that you currently have. If you did nothing else to the seat replacing the webbing would raise your seating position in the car. An example of seat webbing can be found here: http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html This just happens to be where I bought my seat covers, foam, and webbing but you can certainly find all of these elsewhere.

There are simply four bolts per seat that attach the seat rails to the seat supports that are permanently attached to the floor pan. The nuts that hold these bolts in place should be clearly visible on the bottom side of the seat supports. There may be some thick plastic round or hex shaped spacers that can be used to adjust the height of the seat. For a higher seat these would be between the rail and the support. For a lower seat they may be under the support and therefore not really being used. Even though the rails (the part that allows the seat to slide forward and backward) are attached to the seat with more bolts I don't think it's possible to remove the seat from the rails while the rails themselves are still attached. It's much easier to remove the complete unit and then remove the rails from the seats once the whole assembly is out of the car. Are you still just trying to fix the car up in order to sell it or have you gotten too attached?

I note that several members here live in/near Redding but for all I know one of them might be the one selling the car. Just do a search for "Redding" and you'll see several hits.

He already cleaned up this thread once while creating the other thread. For the most part this site is relatively flame-free. Fortunately the disruptive members are in the minority and people here would do well to ignore them even though that's often difficult.

You might be able to figure it out from this shot: http://www.sfzcc.com/Events/2007/ZCON/Zcon3.jpg

When composing a message here (only in "Advanced Mode", not "Quick Reply" mode) there's a "Manage Attachments" button. That's where you can go to add a picture. It's fairly self-explanatory once you see it. Be aware that there is a limit to the size of the picture; that's what trips most people up. I usually just attach 1024x768 resolution JPEG files.

... which is to the right for someone looking at the picture.

I don't think it makes sense to try to fix/replace the foam yet retain the original seat covers. Chances are if the foam is damaged from the sun then the vinyl itself is beyond hope. If you can post some pictures of what you're dealing with that would help others give recommendations. It's actually fairly easy to replace both the foam and the seat covers themselves. The seat back and seat bottom are completely independent so you've actually got four separate pieces to deal with if you want to do both seats. The seat cover kits should come with instructions. The only tip I can offer is to make sure the vinyl is warmed up when working with it. I carefully used a heat gun but you can probably put the seat covers inside the car and leave it in the sun for a while to achieve the same effect. Warm vinyl is softer and more pliable and therefore easier to work with.

Welcome to the club. I had a used gas cap but sent it to another member here. Note that there should be a chain that attaches the cap to the car to hopefully prevent losing it.

It's not clear to me from your description if the entire door moves since you say it shuts securely. When the door is shut can you move it by hand? I'd just sit in the passenger seat and try to move the door with the pull strap. If it doesn't move it could well be that something inside the door is rattling, not the door itself.

The picture clearly shows an S30 2+2 so I wouldn't count on it fitting a later model.

SuperTarget

Here's a new edition that I hadn't seen posted here yet. For $0.97 I couldn't resist.

Who needs a map when you have Google: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=en&geocode=&saddr=Knoxville,+TN&daddr=smyrna,+tn

I find it strange that someone who claims to know nearly nothing about what they're selling would offer a buy-it-now price. In other words, if I thought I had something that might be rare and valuable I'd be hoping that it would go for a lot of money and wouldn't want to sell myself short.

Another good place to look is up under the dash near the top of the firewall. All but a complete refresh/restore will ignore that area.

This would be a good thing to include in the club DVD that Will (hls30.com) has been working on.

The easiest way is from the back side of the lights through the wheel well. Just turn the wheels all the way to one side for easy access. Be careful, however, as the fasteners may have gotten rusty over time. Be aware that the stock Z wiring can't really handle high wattage bulbs. For that you should add relays to avoid having the higher current going through the stock wires and headlight switch.