MikeW

It sounds to me that they don't like the negative connotation of the word "kit" while taking full advantage of using the technicality to get past US regulations since they sell it without an engine or transmission. I recall seeing a radar jammer that could only be sold legally in "kit" form: you had to snap two pieces together to get it to work. Here's another source (not a Wiki) that coincides with what I just said: http://www.autoblog.com/2006/10/16/superformance-rebuilds-the-original-gt40-to-spec/: Superformance, the producers of the best Cobra and Cobra Daytona Coupes replicas in the business, builds something a little more than a "kit car". All of its products are complete factory manufactured rollers minus an engine and transmission. This allows the company to bust a fat right around complex emissions and safety regulations by classifying their products as kit cars, though obviously they're so much more. In any case I think the Superformance cars are fabulous.

From the Wiki article I referenced earlier: SPF cars are sold as "turn-key kit-cars" in the United States to bypass complex emissions and safety regulations. No question, these are not your old fiberglass body on a Volkswagen chassis kit car. They are extremely high quality reproductions. I've seen several of them up close. Attached is a shot of one I took last year at the Mitty.

The original six cars: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelby_Daytona Most likely the replica in question, made in South Africa: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Superformance The car that Australian Peter Brock was driving: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytona_Sportscar

Except that the negative will have degraded a bit after 20 years. How about 50 or 100 years? I've got 50+ year old Kodachrome slides that are all washed out. Digital does not degrade. Yes, you have to make sure you've got reliable backups.

Years ago when I still shot 35mm I learned a simple trick. Don't be a cheapskate and think you have to finish off the roll just because you paid for the film. Otherwise you run the risk of wasting a bunch of shots that you really don't care about just to finish the roll and then end up paying extra for prints you don't really need.

If anything they're better since they don't rust.

Cool - I'm glad that trick worked for you. That should give you another 10 years or so unless you put in headlight relays. The relays greatly reduce the current flow through the switch thereby reducing the arcing as well.

Let's see if it's a problem with using Quick Reply: http://www.classiczcars.com Edit: no - that worked. Strange ...

I can't help but notice that every time you post a URL it can't be clicked on. How are you doing that? You'll notice that in my quoted version of your post it got fixed automatically. Normally you don't have to do anything to get URLs formatted properly.

If you haven't already seen it the PDF I did a while back might help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17688

The last picture you posted is the key to the switch. Can you check the continuity again with it apart like that? It's those little rocker plates that do all of the work. I can't recall which wire does what; just looking at it should tell you which pairs get opened and closed.

The replies are identical. The forum is having serious problems.

If twisting it on and off a few times eventually makes the lights work then it's certainly in the switch itself. If you didn't already you might try swapping the little rocker plates inside the switch. That's what I did when repairing mine and it seemed to make a lot of sense at the time; you're moving fresh metal to the spot that gets pitted due to arcing.

Combination switch. You might see if they will come on if you rapidly twist the switch on and off a few times. I remember you repairing your turn signal switch but did you do the combination switch as well?

Sorry, it looks that attaching files has recently broken.

You can attach pictures directly to a post which bypasses the whole approval process.

Cool, sounds like a fun trip. BTW I just noticed that you were in Shalimar. I went to college with a girl who grew up there and drove my 240Z from here in Atlanta down to visit her back in 1989. I looked both of you guys up on Zabasearch and her parents still live literally 0.2 miles from you on Poquito Rd. I distinctly remember riding with her in her RX7 late one night in the neighborhood when she sped up and turned off the headlights when approaching a 4-way stop. Claims she learned the trick from her older brother. You can apparently tell if there's another car coming the other way because you can now see their headlights on the road. I was just hoping her brother wasn't out driving that night.

Perhaps you should switch two plugs and see if the problem stays with #6. I'm not sure if the #5 wire will reach #6 but if so you could also try swapping wires. Admittedly I know next to nothing about fuel injection but is it possible that an injector can get stuck open such that it's always spraying? Can you also swap injectors and see what happens?

Wet with fuel or wet with oil?

My guess is that you are representative of the majority.

While I don't know the pitch off the top of my head I can offer a suggestion for the future. I went to my local hardware store and simply bought one each of metric nuts and bolts in the common sizes used by Datsun. You can store each pair in a labeled bag and can use them to verify sizes whenever you need to buy new fasteners.

The magnet idea is going to be tricky since the magnet will want to stick to the tank itself more than the screw. You'll have a hard time moving it around; I believe there are baffles inside of the tank. As always be very careful when working around the tank.

The vacuum advance has nothing to do with making the carbs work. It has to do with making the distributor work. The front carb is just the source of the vacuum. If your distributor does not have a vacuum advance then just plug the small hole in the carb.

Considering what it would cost to buy replacement panels the shipping charge does not seem out of line to me. I don't know what your time is worth on this sort of job but assuming you'd want $50 then for $140 someone can get their chrome strips fixed for a lot less than buying and shipping used panels from somewhere. New panels aren't even an option anymore: http://store.datsunspirit.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=84 What you should really do is offer to a panel restoration service. As you know a can of SEM dye can make the vinyl look like new and with new chrome strips it really will look new.

I'm surprised the shipping would be that much. I just ordered a piece of tempered glass from Vancouver, WA and it cost about $30 in shipping FedEx ground. The package was only slightly smaller than what a couple of door panels would require.