MikeW

To do it right you'd almost certainly need to take the dash off. It will be far easier and quicker to work on the wiring with the dash on a bench. Just think of all of the small wires that have to actually go somewhere, not just the main bulk of the harness itself. Besides all of the instruments and instrument lights you have to deal with the ignition, turn signals, wipers, headlights, blower, cigarette lighter, radio, glovebox light, etc. Getting all of those right with the dash out will be tricky. Trying to do it while still in the car will involve a lot of cursing and blood rushing to your head as you're contorted up under the dash. Before getting started you should carefully examine the original harness for cut wires and burnt connections. There's probably a reason that the previous owner decided to switch it out - even if it wasn't the smart thing to do.

I think it just depends on who's looking for that particular item at that time and how bad they want it. If only one person is interested it will go for the starting price. If two people both can't live without it you'll see a crazy bidding war. That's just the way auctions work. Those are the extremes, of course. In the middle you have to take into account those people who are reasonable about how high they'll go as well as people who don't really need the item but are purely buying it on speculation.

After market manual antenna switch?

An advantage of keeping the color original is that often cheaper if you can get away without having to re-spray door jambs, under the hood, and other hidden places that may still have good paint. That assumes of course that those areas weren't painted a non-original color previously. Another advantage of the original color is that people consider it more valuable and certainly more authentic for show cars. On on the other hand if you're that worried about winning a trophy then you'll want to use the cheap original single stage acrylic paint. A disadvantage of the original color would be if you don't like it. When I bought my car in 1985 it had already be re-painted twice and I had no idea at the time that it was originally #113 green, a color that I don't particularly care for. When I refreshed my car a few years ago I decided to go with a color that I really like instead of restoring it back to the original color. It's not even one of the original Nissan colors and it is a high-quality modern PPG base coat/clear coat. I don't know just how much having the original color would affect a sale price but I certainly wouldn't want to spend $5000 on a color I didn't like only because I was afraid that if I ever sold the car I'd lose $1000 for not staying original. I don't ever intend on selling my car anyway so it doesn't matter.

It's 27mm although post #3 above mentions that 1 1/8" will also work. According to Google: 1.12500 in = 28.57500 millimeters so that might be a little loose but at that size it probably doesn't matter much. Good luck at the hardware store.

My '72 FSM is already cut loose and 3-hole punched. Of course, you probably don't want the oil stains on the engine overhaul pages.

Some engines have a single pointer with multiple marks on the crank pulley. Others have a single mark on the pulley and a sort of timing ruler with multiple marks. Which type of pointer do you have?

Makes sense. When you said "pick up their car" I didn't realize you were being quite literal.

Out of curiosity would you even want to put a completed car on a rotisserie? I thought they were only for shells.

It's definitely easier with warm vinyl. I even used a heat gun on mine. As I recall I did most of the work in my living room so the outside temperature shouldn't matter that much. As for the foam I suppose it depends on what shape yours is in. I replaced mine completely. It's not because it was really damaged anywhere but rather because it gets compressed over the years and doesn't provide enough support. I noticed a big different in ride height after replacing the foam.

The diagram looks to me to be exactly the same as the Black Dragon diagram posted by Mohamed. They use the Precision aftermarket kit and parts 5 and 6 even show exactly the same profile as in the hand-drawn diagram.

Did you mean 2020?

It certainly would be nice to see an explanation for some of these. Since I have no reason to believe that there's any truth to the first three I don't know that I can trust any of them. Sure, everyone should know that you can turn on your heater in the summer time to help if the car is overheating but that's kind of in conflict with the previous suggestion of shutting the engine down immediately if it gets over 190 degrees F. Frankly 190F is fine for the car. The main risk of overheating is if it gets hot enough to boil over and with antifreeze that's well over 212F (100C).

Since you drive 120 miles/day I think you should consider getting something cheap that gets good mileage like a used Honda Civic. My personal opinion is that an S30 is not the safest car to be hauling kids around in. You can certainly still get a 2 seater or 2+2 but I wouldn't use that as my only transportation. I hope your wife doesn't have a long commute at about 6mpg.

You can upload pictures to your gallery but they have to be approved before anyone else can see them. You can also upload a picture as an attachment to any post. In both cases there are size limitations but I'm not clear on what those limits are. I always end up scaling pictures down to 1024x768.

Welcome to the club. Based on the occupation listed in your public profile I'm anxious to see the pictures.

As far as I know the front fenders were the same from 70 to 78.

I've never heard of a mixed interior. Do you know the original color of your car? If so that might help determine if the white is correct or the black is correct. Since the plastic panels are more likely to get damaged and are easier to switch out my guess is that the white was original.

Well, if you ever read a bad wiki feel free to make it better. For instance, the Stanza entry was edited by quite a few people: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Nissan_Stanza&action=history Even so, there's probably something in there that you could contribute or improve upon.

I'm not sure I understand this. What size fuse was there and what should it have been? If it was too small it would blow under normal use and nothing would work. If it was too big it wouldn't be protecting you properly in the case of a high-resistance short.

On my 1972 there appears to be a red wire with a black stripe coming out of the harness that goes to the turn signal assembly. It's hard to tell from the wiring diagram but since there's a relay that operates the horns I'm guessing that grounding the wire I mentioned actuates the relay. To verify, with the ignition off I just measured 12 volts from the red/black wire to ground. When I ran a wire from there to ground the horns blew. It just took me about 10 minutes figuring out how to resize a photo on this new Mac Mini. Oh well, hopefully the attached picture will help.

Are you sure you didn't run the battery down?

My preference would be to put the emblems in the proper position. If the metal is good and the Bondo is just there to fill the holes I'd definitely just get rid of the Bondo itself and not put any new holes in the metal. I'd start with a really small drill bit from the bottom and then carefully enlarge the hole from the top. Stop enlarging when you hit metal. Once you've got enough holes drilled you can figure out where the others go based on your new emblems.

Just what kind of enclosure do you plan on building in that case? Sounds like you need some armor plating or concrete.

It's really sad, isn't it? Those that live in such restrictive areas can certainly benefit from your excellent advice so I wouldn't call it wasted bandwidth.