MikeW

Out of curiosity would you even want to put a completed car on a rotisserie? I thought they were only for shells.

It's definitely easier with warm vinyl. I even used a heat gun on mine. As I recall I did most of the work in my living room so the outside temperature shouldn't matter that much. As for the foam I suppose it depends on what shape yours is in. I replaced mine completely. It's not because it was really damaged anywhere but rather because it gets compressed over the years and doesn't provide enough support. I noticed a big different in ride height after replacing the foam.

The diagram looks to me to be exactly the same as the Black Dragon diagram posted by Mohamed. They use the Precision aftermarket kit and parts 5 and 6 even show exactly the same profile as in the hand-drawn diagram.

Did you mean 2020?

It certainly would be nice to see an explanation for some of these. Since I have no reason to believe that there's any truth to the first three I don't know that I can trust any of them. Sure, everyone should know that you can turn on your heater in the summer time to help if the car is overheating but that's kind of in conflict with the previous suggestion of shutting the engine down immediately if it gets over 190 degrees F. Frankly 190F is fine for the car. The main risk of overheating is if it gets hot enough to boil over and with antifreeze that's well over 212F (100C).

Since you drive 120 miles/day I think you should consider getting something cheap that gets good mileage like a used Honda Civic. My personal opinion is that an S30 is not the safest car to be hauling kids around in. You can certainly still get a 2 seater or 2+2 but I wouldn't use that as my only transportation. I hope your wife doesn't have a long commute at about 6mpg.

You can upload pictures to your gallery but they have to be approved before anyone else can see them. You can also upload a picture as an attachment to any post. In both cases there are size limitations but I'm not clear on what those limits are. I always end up scaling pictures down to 1024x768.

Welcome to the club. Based on the occupation listed in your public profile I'm anxious to see the pictures.

As far as I know the front fenders were the same from 70 to 78.

I've never heard of a mixed interior. Do you know the original color of your car? If so that might help determine if the white is correct or the black is correct. Since the plastic panels are more likely to get damaged and are easier to switch out my guess is that the white was original.

Well, if you ever read a bad wiki feel free to make it better. For instance, the Stanza entry was edited by quite a few people: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Nissan_Stanza&action=history Even so, there's probably something in there that you could contribute or improve upon.

I'm not sure I understand this. What size fuse was there and what should it have been? If it was too small it would blow under normal use and nothing would work. If it was too big it wouldn't be protecting you properly in the case of a high-resistance short.

On my 1972 there appears to be a red wire with a black stripe coming out of the harness that goes to the turn signal assembly. It's hard to tell from the wiring diagram but since there's a relay that operates the horns I'm guessing that grounding the wire I mentioned actuates the relay. To verify, with the ignition off I just measured 12 volts from the red/black wire to ground. When I ran a wire from there to ground the horns blew. It just took me about 10 minutes figuring out how to resize a photo on this new Mac Mini. Oh well, hopefully the attached picture will help.

Are you sure you didn't run the battery down?

My preference would be to put the emblems in the proper position. If the metal is good and the Bondo is just there to fill the holes I'd definitely just get rid of the Bondo itself and not put any new holes in the metal. I'd start with a really small drill bit from the bottom and then carefully enlarge the hole from the top. Stop enlarging when you hit metal. Once you've got enough holes drilled you can figure out where the others go based on your new emblems.

Just what kind of enclosure do you plan on building in that case? Sounds like you need some armor plating or concrete.

It's really sad, isn't it? Those that live in such restrictive areas can certainly benefit from your excellent advice so I wouldn't call it wasted bandwidth.

Just a guess but according to Wikipedia Talkeetna, AK has 772 people, 358 households, and 181 families. Somehow I don't think the lawyer for the local neighborhood association is going to get too bent out of shape. I went through there once on the train from Anchorage to Denali and Fairbanks. I recall one place where they tossed some old railroad cars in the river to help prevent erosion of the banks.

The cable comes through a hole in the firewall between the brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder but down low.

Is it possible that your current speedometer cable is simply unattached at one end or the other? Why did you get a new cable if you don't even know if you have one? You can reach up under the dash to the back of the speedometer. The cable screws in to the middle of the back of the gauge.

Wow; I might have to visit again to see that. I'll buy lunch this time. Seriously, I'm glad to see that you made it into the magazine.

I'm no expert but most people around here seem to believe that carbs off of a '73 aren't worth anything, especially in unknown condition since they'd likely need work. While they would fit the earlier "round top" carbs from '70 to '72 would be a better bet if you want to get away from fuel injection.

It's difficult to answer without know what kind of paint job you're getting. If you're just trying to save them a bit of work by doing stuff yourself that's certainly nice of you but any decent paint and body shop will certainly end up doing all of this themselves and more. The guy that did the work on my car removed all of the glass, tail light finishers, horns, etc., and even took the doors off several times just to make sure that all of the body lines were just right. On the other hand if you're paying for a $200 quicky job where they spray right over the dirt and grime then you're certainly on the right track ...

From Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moller_M400 "As of late 2002, MI's approximately 40 years' of development has resulted in a prototype Skycar capable of hovering about fifteen feet above the ground."

On my car it's a rubber U-shaped channel that is also covered on the inside with a felt-like material so I guess you'd have to count that as one piece. I think I got them from MSA a few years ago. They call it a "door window channel".