MikeW

Wow, you just missed an opportunity. That very car was just up for sale on eBay: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24326 Welcome to the club. If the rust is as bad as it sounds I doubt that it's worth it for anything other than parts.

I don't know; it just seems tricky since the transmission is on the front of the engine with power delivered to the differential located at the rear of the engine through half-shafts. You would then take that whole engine and turn it around so that the former front faces the rear, remove the Lambo tranny and replace it with something conventional that has a drive shaft at the rear. At that point, who knows? Do all V-engines even rotate in the same direction? You might end up with 5 reverse gears and only one forward ...

Looks red to me. They must have used the authentic Datsun paint.

This thread provides a perfect opportunity to use the new reputation feature of this site to provide kudos to those members here who go out of their way to provide excellent advice time after time. In this case some of the information provided is crucial for safely working on our cars and when it comes from people uniquely qualified to provide such advice it once again proves how useful a community this is. While it's also possible to use the reputation feature to disapprove of posts I've found that the "ignore list" option works well in this sort of situation.

Dealing with the transmission and output would certainly be tricky. I suppose you could turn the Z into a FWD car.

It may be the filler hose as suggested but it may also be some of the other vent hoses.

Welcome to the club. I have an old hatch lock but you'd obviously need to get it re-keyed. I'll see if I can find it in the garage.

While I won't disagree with the experts I do note that a long time ago I had the same problem and had to use a bit of force to get the sprocket back on. A week or so later the tensioner broke and I bent my exhaust valves. It may have been just a coincidence.

If the sprocket won't go back on that's a good indication that the wedge didn't work properly. You don't have to pull the engine or remove the head but you will likely need to pull the front cover off to get the chain installed properly.

I did this 20+ years ago so I may not remember correctly. I fabricated a bracket out of aluminum and drilled holes in it that line up with the choke lever assembly. I used nuts and bolts to attach the assembly to the bracket. I then used sheet metal screws to attach the bracket to the tunnel. I don't recall there being any existing holes in the tunnel in this area.

I eliminated the whole problem by fabricating a bracket that attaches the choke assembly down to the transmission tunnel instead of up to the plastic console. This provides the additional benefit of being able to easily remove the console while leaving the choke cables and lever assembly in place.

The color and type thing only applies to modern spade fuses like these: Unless you've upgraded the fuse box a 240Z uses the old-style glass fuses: You can easily buy an assortment of these for a few dollars at the parts store. It's a shame that they didn't have a clue when you went there. As I recall the 240Z uses mainly 10A and 20A fuses (10 amp and 20 amp).

Patch panels are readily available. Black Dragon: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0021.html Tabco, the original supplier of patch panels: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/167.htm

I finally got to see the episode, "Hard work pays off" that covered the Walter Mitty Historic Sports Car Race event back in April. I'm not sure when it was first broadcast but they're showing reruns of it a few times this week. I'm not sure about other providers but DirecTV showing it again tonight at midnight. The first minute or two of the show provides footage from the event including a drive-by of the Georgia Z Club tent where my car was parked.

Yes, that's what I figured. However, wouldn't you want the stated value as high as possible? My stated value is also based on an appraisal. It doesn't seem right to try and sell it for $6100 more. If it's truly worth that much more why didn't the seller try and get it insured for more?

Clutch, tires, battery, wipers? Is that 1% by weight, volume, price? To me it's just a made-up statistic. I wonder why the seller has it insured for less than the asking price.

"THE DMV REGISTER THIS CAR AS 1970" So it counts as a 1970 since the DMV didn't know what they were doing? I don't know much about an S31 myself but doesn't it have tail lights that didn't show up until 1974?

His dining room wouldn't be big enough.

If you're going to be painting soon anyway and don't want to stay stock why not use one of the body kits that replaces everything: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7RS/50-1473

Are you asking about the horizontal chrome-plated plastic piece that is part of each tail light or the thin edging that's part of the metal tail-light surround?

These were often added by dealers but did not come that way from the factory. My car had them installed with pop rivets so I don't think you can assume that they can be removed without showing damage. Even if they're somehow glued on you still risk damaging the paint. However, can can probably make the determination easily. Mine were actually two pieces: the silver portion that goes up against the car and the black portion which slips into the base. You can probably pull the black part out and look for the attachment points.

I'd remove the pump and simply try it by hand with fuel hoses straight into a gas can.

Welcome to the club. Did you bleed the master cylinder itself before the brakes?

Purchase the parts CD from this club. It's a scan of the original Nissan microfiche that shows all of the parts diagrams and numbers. https://www.classiczcars.com/store/

Really? Can you post a picture of a knob with a metal emblem? Mine is plastic like Arne's and is also somewhat damaged.