MikeW

Ok, perhaps I'm thinking of the outer shift boot. Doesn't it have 8 clips to hold it to the console?

My memory may be failing but I thought it had more like 8 holes.

Thanks for the confirmation, Will. Are two pieces normally stuck together as seemingly one piece?

I wish I could answer that but it appears that once again I'm a victim of not knowing of production changes to items like this. I'm really only familiar with what's on my 9/71 model. I had no idea that this ever changed. I've attached a picture I just took of mine that clearly shows the separate pieces. As you can see my plastic piece was actually cracked and broken and I used a plastic glue to repair it. I did just attempt to install just the metal piece without the plastic but in that situation the square hole is not deep enough to accept the mirror; the clip on the mirror hits the vinyl.

The base of the mirror snaps into a square hole in a metal clip that is in turned covered by the plastic piece that holds the sun visors. The three screws go into the metal piece which actually holds the plastic piece in place. It's possible that the plastic part is broken off and missing but the metal is still there.

You might consider making a tech article from this. Here's one I did a while back: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17688

Here's an article about that car: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0502scc_skyline_tommykaira_r/

Perhaps the original poster has already fixed the problem in the last two and a half years.

Ok, just wondering. Welcome back. Are you planning on getting another Z?

Are you on drugs?

For anyone else interested in a heater control panel who is willing to forgo the exhilaration of winning on eBay, here's a place that claims to have them in stock for $180: http://store.datsunspirit.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5

You must have skimmed the pictures as well as the article.

I'd personally avoid clicking on that link. It takes you to some bogus PC software download at www.systemdoctor.com

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=en&saddr=28139&daddr=spartanburg,+sc

He only said that the pair of wires went to the transmission. I'm the one who (mistakenly) assumed they were for the interlock. He did also mention the extra part near the coil.

It's not a tag; it's stamped into the firewall up above the master cylinder.

Have you removed the small panel in the wheel well that's in front of the filler hose?

I know you decided to put this to rest but I just quizzed the local Z car expert on this and he thinks that it was indeed for an automatic just as Arne theorized. The two wires in question actually go down to the transmission itself - not to any accessory in the engine compartment; I'm guessing that this is for the starter inhibitor switch (can't start the car unless you're in park). That would explain the two feet or so length; they were probably hanging down after the tranny swap and the PO just moved them over with the other wires in the harness to get them out of the way. The bullet connectors are similar to the wires to the reverse lamp switch on my car. He says that even automatics came with the clutch stop - it just wasn't needed. He also said that one practically guaranteed way to check if the car was an automatic is to look for the kick down switch at the top of the accelerator pedal arm since people making the switch would be unlikely to bother removing that.

Yes. I did not even release there was a detent since mine centers automatically.

Hector signed a copy of that for me as well. Were you at the Mitty? Here's a picture I took of 26th-Z coercing Hector to autograph a whole stack of posters: Link to my gallery of the event: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=20168&cat=3315

Well, as always I could be completely wrong. However, I recall that on my '72 there are actually coolant passages through the insulator to help cool the carbs. I'm going to hot link a picture from ZTherapy (while I still can) that shows the differences between model years. The pictures you posted clearly don't show the passages I'm thinking of and I didn't realize that earlier cars did not have this feature.

I don't know how likely it is but I don't see how you can say that there's no way for this to happen. It seems to me that one way would be if he spacer (insulator) cracked between the coolant passage hole and the main intake hole.

The Uni-syn tool simply provides a way of making sure that the amount of air flowing into each carb is the same. It's got a little red float in a tube that rises and falls with the airflow. You adjust the tool to the point where the indicator is somewhere in the middle; it doesn't matter where. At that matters is that it's the same for each carb. You don't want to keep the tool in place for very long as it will affect the engine. Just hold it in place long enough to get a reading and alternate between the front and rear long enough to get them the same. There are plenty of online guides that explain how to tune SU carbs. There's more to it than just getting the airflow the same. One common mistake is to just jump in and start tweaking the carbs without making sure that everything else is in tune first or that you even have a problem to begin with. Bottom line: you can use the tool easily enough but be careful with what changes you actually make. Ask questions here if needed.

Brian, Welcome to the club. Post some pictures if you get a chance ... I've got a print of Hector Cademartori's "Zeal" that you're using in your Avatar. It's autographed by Mr. K, John Morton, Pete Brock, and John Caldwell.

I got mine from Chloe a couple of years ago for $136.84 including shipping. I do note that the current high bidder has never bought anything on eBay before.