MikeW

Kats, I can't see it in any browser I've tried (Firefox, Chrome, IE). It's a Flash-based video player and I've tried with the latest versions of Flash. I'm unable to translate the attached error message but hopefully that will explain why it's not working for some of us.

There is a plastic center pin that you simply push through. Once the pin is removed the entire clip can pop out. Once you remove all of the clips the panel itself will come right off and at that point you can go searching for all of the pins that fell out on the back side.

And I need to resist the temptation of clicking the "view post" link on post #4 which caused my callous reply in post #5. In this case I clicked it thinking there was a possibility that I was being corrected or had missed something in my post #2 response. I'm always eager to apologize for or admit mistakes in posts where I either provide bad information or misunderstood the question. It's easy to skim a post and think you understand the question when in fact you don't.

Not to beat a dead horse but my remote starter switch, which looks a lot like this, has a squeeze trigger that allows tight control over how long the starter is engaged and you can easily operate it with one hand while watching the cam lobes spin into the proper position. Yes, you can use a fixed wire or screwdriver but those don't provide the same level of control.

Whoosh

You don't have to disconnect anything. You're just hooking up a new switch in parallel with the existing switch. Here's an old thread that discusses slight variations. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10842

Unfortunately I couldn't find my camera this morning before driving to Road Atlanta so I was forced to take pictures with my phone. It was nice to meet Ron and Les and see the wonderful cars they brought from California.

And if it's not an aftermarket unit it's not even a stereo; the original Hitachi AM/FM mono radio in my '72 has three pushbuttons for AM preset stations and two more for the fancy new FM stations. The poor early 240Z guys had AM only. What is remarkable to me, however, is that the radio actually has an integrated circuit, not just transistors.

It looks like MSA carries the 2mm gasket for $314.95: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM09/10-2453 How thick is the stock gasket? I seem to recall mine being more than 1mm but that was 20+ years ago when I replaced it.

Precisely. I honestly don't know enough about rebuilding to know what's acceptable but I knew you'd come to the inevitable conclusion on your own - as you've already done. All I was able to do was steer you away from the notion that it could possibly be an L26/L28 crank in there.

The stroke went from 73.7mm (L24) to 78.0 mm (L26/L28) which is 0.170 inches, far more than the 0.035 inches that you're seeing.

If there are no marks or numbers I wonder if there's a weight difference? Presumably the longer the stroke the heavier the crankshaft.

If you literally have deep pits uniformly covering the entire windshield it would be an incredible amount of work. Like any polishing operation you're removing material (in this case glass) to reduce the entire surface level down to the bottom of the imperfection(s). I was less concerned about the pits from sand than the deep scratches from the wipers. I concentrated on the deep scratches (anything that you can feel will your fingernail). The deep scratch kit contains the colored abrasive disks which can remove a lot of material. The normal kit is a powder that is mixed with water and applied with a felt pad. It can remove shallow imperfections like hazing or acid rain etching, etc. There's a different product, which I haven't tried, which looks like another alternative.

I used this kit from Eastwood with some success on my original windshield. A previous owner had let the wipers (or lack thereof) create deep scratches in the glass. There were also a lot of pits as you've described. When I had my car repainted I bought a new windshield which unfortunately broke on install so we put the original back in causing me to try and repair it. I may buy new glass at some point anyway because even though the deep scratches are gone the glass is a bit "wavy" because of the amount of glass removed. Since the kit is considerably less than a new windshield you could give it a try and if it doesn't work well enough you could go ahead and replace the windshield at a later date. It does work a lot easier with an angle grinder/polisher instead of a drill so you'll need to take that into account if you don't already have one of those.

At least you caught it before anything worse happened. I wonder what would cause that? It doesn't seem like there would be that much stress on the pulley under normal operation. I wonder if in the past someone tried to coax it on with a bit too much force?

I apologize if my message wasn't clear. I was trying to say: It's too bad the the shift knob currently available from Nissan new isn't a good match of the original. If it were a good match you guys wouldn't have to go through all of this trouble and expense.

Discussed earlier in this thread

It's a shame that this apparently isn't an exact match of the original. It would be very easy to just buy a new knob from Nissan and be done with it. The shift knob is the single easiest component on the whole car to simply replace. No tools required - 30 seconds of work. The original could be kept in your sock drawer if originality is that important to you. The reason I'm pointing this out is that with the wood, plastic, and chrome not to mention the glue inside this is actually a quite tricky piece to restore and I suspect you guys who've been working on it have put in quite a few hours to get those great results.

When you say you checked all of the wiring what do you mean? Presumably you'd want to use a voltage meter at each step of the way. The fact that you can hear the relay click indicates that that the relay itself is properly wired to the combination switch (at least on the high beam) so the relay is being actuated. However, that doesn't mean that the relay has a power supply to pass through to the lights. Where is that main relay power coming from? Normally it would come straight from the battery or similar.

I agree, Gumball Rally. I can pretty much give you all the quotes from the first Cannonball Run - the second movie was horrible. Actually, the first was pretty bad as well from the critics standpoint but I loved the cars and the stars. Besides Burt and Dom and Farrah there was Dean Martin/Sammy Davis Jr, Mel Tillis/Terry Bradshaw, Roger Moore, Jamie Farr, Peter Fonda, and, surprisingly the first serious US movie for an unknown from Hong Kong named Jackie Chan. Here's the opening scene:

Just remember: you can never talk yourself out of a ticket but you can always talk yourself into one.

Yes, I was clearly joking. Must of us envy you low humidity guys who seem to have all the luck finding cheap rust free cars. However, unless your car was purchased in and never left that environment there's no telling where the rust originated. My last visit to Tuscon involved driving up to Casa Grande Ruins. I do recall some rain that day and being warned by locals about the extreme danger of washes in such situations. I'm sure there have been some unlucky people end up with rusty cars in that situation. To ChrisZ: there may well be some desert dwellers in Australia who'd love a crack-free dash from Ireland.

It's just not fair for a guy from Tucson to be lecturing a guy from Ireland on rust. The last time I was in Ireland I walked along the coast road from Malahide towards Port Marnock. It was a beautiful spring day with a nice salt breeze coming off of the water. It then got so warm I had to take off my windbreaker. A little while later it started snowing yet the sun was shining. At the end of the walk it was back to a nice spring day. It was the strangest and fastest change in weather that I've ever seen. With weather like that there's just no chance of finding a rust free car in Ireland unless it's never been driven. The only good news is he might find one without a cracked dash so you desert dwellers don't have all the luck of the Irish.

You youngsters have no concept of how primitive these old arcade games really were when you've grown up with PlayStations and XBoxes with games like Forza that blow away the best games of just a few years ago and rival the graphics rendering capability of multi-million dollar airliner flying simulators from 20 years ago. We're talking about a CRT console video game in a wooden cabinet that was produced the same year (1976) as the first Apple home computer and years before IBM ever thought of a PC (1981). There's probably no 280Z displayed in the game because that would have been too hard to produce an image that actually looked like a 280Z. The original game was probably designed as "night driver" to avoid using color for drawing trees and sky and grass. The sample video looks like you're driving at night so the whole screen is black except for these white reflective markers on the each side of the road. At the time it was an amazingly realistic simulation of driving at night and kids were willing to insert quarter after quarter in the arcade to play it. After all it was the first 3D driving game; previous driving games were merely 2D. I bet the 280 ZZZAP version of Night Driver just had pictures of a 280 on the cabinet to capitalize on the popularity of a hot new car and therefore suck in more quarters.

From the link just posted: This game ranks a 0 on a scale out of 100 (100 = most commonly seen, 1=least common) in popularity based on census want list records. That's not very encouraging ...