MikeW

Welcome to the club. If you can, please upload pictures of your cars to your gallery here. I'm sure a lot of people here would be interested in seeing them.

As an experiment with my old cracked heater control panel I actually used a black permanent marker to restore the worn black paint. It came out better than expected.

Didn't he say all but the speedometer are not working? The speedometer is the only mechanical gauge. If all of the others don't work it's obviously an electrical problem and could be easy to fix.

Unless Alissa has another buyer lined up or has a use for the dash herself why discourage him? I say sell it ...

I don't think it would be fair for him to expect that you'll know what problems he'll run into. It seems to me that you should happily sell it to him with the stipulation that you don't know whether or not it will work and that he's on his own.

What type of paint is it? Does it have a clear coat? I'd suggest 2000 grit wet/dry paper with plenty of water. If that doesn't work then the paint is already damaged by whatever you're trying to remove.

If Zabasearch couldn't find it then I'm afraid the person chooses to not be listed. There are certainly other methods but they aren't free. If you want to send me a PM with the address I'll see if I have any better luck.

I thought I responded to this earlier today. Perhaps I forgot to hit send. In addition to Arne's advice there's a possibility that the needle is bent. The ZTherapy video mentioned above shows a clever trick for straightening needles. You chuck it in an electric drill and spin it while pressing it from the side with a piece of cloth.

Consider using a PM (private message) on this forum for exchanging information that you don't want visible to the world.

Phone book? What's that? Oh yeah, now I remember. I haven't used one in years. http://www.zabasearch.com

Which interior parts are you referring to? The plastic panels in the hatch area all attach with plastic rivets. The vinyl is glued on. The door panels and dogleg panels use clips. If you can be more specific - perhaps by posting pictures since you may not know what you're missing - we can probably help you out.

There are actually two kits from Eastwood. The product that removes deep scratches (those you can feel with your fingernail) uses different grades of an abrasive disk. If you end up needing this there will likely be some distortion in the glass. The other product uses a powder that is mixed with water to a "gravy" consistency along with a felt wheel. When used properly this will clear up all of the haze, water marks, etc., leaving clear glass. While it's possible to use either of these with an electric drill I found that a variable speed angle grinder works much better.

Thanks Will. The monthly club meeting is actually tonight so the timing is perfect: http://www.georgiazclub.com/

Looking good. Be very careful putting the bumper back on. It's too easy to let it slip a little and scratch that new paint. Perhaps you can wrap up the ends temporarily with something like bubble wrap and duct tape.

I'd suggest shots of the typical rust-prone areas that any serious buyer would want to see. The frame rails, battery tray area, floorboards, spare tire area, etc. It would also help to see pictures of all of the available ID tags with VIN numbers and engine numbers and so forth.

When it jumps around a little what is the car doing? If the battery is low and you rev it up I expect the ammeter to jump up a bit as it tries to recharge the battery. If you're idling and turn on the headlights I expect to see the needle jump to the left a bit as takes on the extra load. You can't electrocute yourself with only 12 volts so I wouldn't worry too much about that. I don't know that you could electrocute yourself even on the ignition circuit. I don't think the current flow is high enough at those extreme voltages to do more than knock you backwards a few feet. Of course, I'm not willing to get first-hand experience with this.

My understanding is that a fusible link is really just a wire. The key is that it's a wire that is about 4 gauges smaller than the rest of the circuit (making it the weakest link) and has a special non-flammable insulation for when it melts. http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

Me too. Especially since I've met each of them in person (as well as the person who started this poll). It's funny how people don't always come across in person the way they do online. An awful lot is lost in the written word. There's no question that the people are the best part of the club.

I agree since anyone can post an offensive picture as an attachment to a post without approval. The most offensive thing I've ever seen on this site was actually some one's avatar which also requires no approval. What I'd really love to see on this site is a community ratings system similar to digg. When someone shows up and spams us with an ad for iPods or claims that they have the best low-mileage 240Z in existence and the rest of us are whiners then people here simply give the post a thumbs down. I then set my filter to ignore posts with negative ratings. I could even automatically ignore all posts from people who have a lot of negative ratings.

Here's some good information on the above: http://www.jtuned.com/content/templates/tune.aspx?articleid=288&zoneid=16

The car does have 240Z taillights which would be harder to change out than emblems. Clearly the RLS VIN makes it an early 260Z, but apparently someone in the past really wanted it to be a 240Z. I question having a starting bid equal to the buy it now price.

If you're like me you're often doing a "Datsun 240Z" or "Datsun 280Z", etc. search on eBay. I get kind of tired of the (watches, wall clocks, t-shirts, key chains, die-cast models, diamond cut headlights, etc.) and decided that instead of trying to filter out certain keywords that it would be best to just filter out certain sellers who put up the exact same stuff week after week. I really don't want any of that stuff. I've seen it already. Again and again and again. I thought it might be useful for us to collaborate on the best list of users to ignore. Unfortunately eBay limits you to 10 users. You simply go to the advanced search page and enter a comma-separated list of users to exclude. Here's what I just threw together based on what's currently on eBay: ur-gelis, wholesale_diecast_models, el_andyboy, redline_motorsport, racing_accessories, revospec, zoinkerswatches, toysmall I included ur-gelis because I've seen postings here from unhappy buyers. I believe I've seen other people here who refuse to buy from other certain prominent Datsun sellers but I can't remember the names. Who can help me out on that?

240's had only one speaker.

I'd say it's either a problem with the starter solenoid or a loose battery cable.

The center finisher goes on first and is just kind of held in place. You then attach the licence plate lamp assembly through the hole in the top of the center section which helps hold it in place. The left and right finishers go on next and also help hold the center since the center piece is now behind the left and right finishers. Those two snap into clips on the bottom edge and are held with plastic rivets on the top (the ones that you need to drill holes for). Finally, the bottom two screws holding the license plate to the car are the only thing that really attaches the center finisher firmly into place. I just took mine apart in order to describe this. I can take pictures if needed. Edit: the license plate lamp assembly actually needs to go on last since the left and right finishers go behind it as well. When I took it apart I was able to slide the left finisher out from behind the lamp assembly but now that I just put it back together I realized that my order was wrong.