MikeW

Gary, those URLs don't work. You might need to try them again.

I think it will look very clean the way you've done it. Keep in mind that once the outer fender is on and a wheel is in place it won't stand out at all.

Sorry, I meant to reply earlier and forgot. As far as I know all 240Z's came with lap and shoulder belts. The earlier belts were adjustable but not retracting. Around 9/71 pockets were added to the floorboards behind the seats to accept a retracting spool for the lap portion only. These showed up later in the 1972 model year. My car came with the pockets but with rubber plugs in the extra bolt holes. Later models (260 or 280?) came with retracting shoulder belts as well and some people have retrofitted those to earlier cars. I don't know of anywhere to buy OEM seatbelts. Courtesy Nissan lists these: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=H6830-S30 but they don't look original to me and they appear to be out of stock anyhow. The only belts that MSA shows are those that you've already mentioned: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PIC06 Finally, one option is to get the original belts restored. I've heard that these people do good work but haven't used them: http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/

Do you even need a special tool for this? http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20010801ha.html#

I think it may be getting enough fuel to make it rev but not when under load. I'd first check the condition of the fuel filter.

Yep. That and lawn edging from Home Depot attached with rivets for ground effects. Now who in their right mind would do that ... ?

No, actually Army (special forces) In that case you don't even need the GTO kit as your 280Z is unique enough already. Good luck with the project. Post some pictures to your gallery if you get the opportunity.

Wecome to the group. You're probably the first member living in Grenada. Are you aware of any other early Z cars there? I've never been there although I knew some people who visited briefly back in 1983.

I'll have to try that. I had given up on fixing it and started a project to install a cheap quartz movement. I gave up on that as well when I couldn't use the original hands and had difficultly fabricating some that looked right - glow in the dark paint and all. :dead:

Be sure to look at all of the pictures. This car covers everything mentioned so far and more ... http://www.ricecop.com/mirror/ebay_civic.htm

It looks like he already knew that. I agree; excellent writeup. I wish that my clock (9/71) wasn't mechanical since I didn't have much luck fixing it going the sewing machine oil route.

I don't know how much the timing might be off; it may well be fine. The point is that you should make sure that the timing is right, the points and valves are adjusted, etc., before messing with the carbs.

Did you set the timing first?

Uni-syn: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/TE/60-9965

The float cover gasket is not important. If the needle valve gets stuck the bowl will fill up and the fuel will leak out. With a gasket in place it will go through the hose to the air cleaner where it will puddle up and leak out.

I think you should ask whoever you bought the paint from. Every paint is different. I didn't think you would sand the base coat or even between clear coats. I thought the only sanding needed was after the final clear coat and only then after the paint has thoroughly cured and settled out. I left my car in the sun for a couple of weeks before doing any sanding.

It looks to me like the pictures were actually taken at the car wash.

I know I've posted this before and someone else mentioned it above: http://www.wd40.com/Brands/3in1_product_info.html You'll notice that the blue and white can is SAE 20, only costs a couple of dollars at any hardware store, and is the perfect size and has the perfect nozzle for squirting in a few cc's.

Interesting ... what advantage does Kerosene have over water? I recall using lots of water when polishing my wheels.

There are two grooves on the damper rod to indicate the high and low level. It's just like a conventional dip stick. As for adjusting the carbs much has been written about this already, including the fact that many people decide to adjust the carbs when the problem lies elsewhere thus making things worse.

I think you have that backwards ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duane_Allman

I'm 47431, also 9/71.

That car looks a lot different to me. I suppose it could be from the same designers.

Yes, everything is metric. Fortunately almost everything you do on the car is 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, or 17mm. Of course your existing 3/8 or 1/2 socket wrenches and extension bars will work since even metric sockets come in those drive sizes. I like the somewhat recent ratcheting combination wrenches and you really only need the four sizes there as well. In your situation there's only exception to the rule: you'll probably want to pick up a 27mm socket for the crank pulley for when you want to turn the engine over by hard.

Unfortunately for Alan it's not that easy. He has multiple scattered garages located miles from his home due to the space situation and congestion in London. Perhaps he has a special garage picked out for this car ...