MikeW

So who's going? I've got the 3 day ticket and plan on driving up tomorrow. So far the weather is looking good with rain possible on Sunday ...

Here's the web page: http://www.zcarcreations.com/

Everyone I've talked to with a RHD Z car here in the US talks about how scary they are to drive in traffic. You're sitting close to the outside of the road and it's harder to judge where the oncoming traffic is.

Strange. I specifically recall that the Precision kit I got from MSA came with two left door seals even though one of them was labeled for the right door. I ended up returning the wrong one and getting the proper replacement. I didn't think it was even possible to install on the wrong side.

Welcome. I've not seen anyone from Lebanon or UAE post here so you might be the first. There have been some posts recently from someone in Kuwait and from the looks of it there are quite a few nice cars there. I realize that Kuwait is a bit north of you but that's the closest member I know of. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20682

I would simply remove the filter from the clip while the car is idling and move it around to see if you can get the air bubble to pass on through. If the filter is clogged then your car won't run.

I'm surprised that someone who has "too many cars" and wants to sell this one is "driving the car daily". I would have thought that it would just be sitting around undriven in that case. I agree that $800 for a running car might not be too bad.

I don't see why not. From my 1972 FSM: "Both seats can be adjusted 20mm (0.787 in) each upward and downward. The seat elevation is adjusted with the spacer indicated in dotted line in Figure BF-53. When it is desired to raise the seat, place the spacer on the seat riser. Contrarily, when desired to lower the seat, remove the spacer." I'm fairly sure each spacer is 10mm, so I suppose by default there were two spacers above and two (unused) below? That would allow for both 20mm up and 20mm down. I don't recall seeing that many spacers in my car, however.

As far as I know they all came with narrow steel wheels and hubcaps. The early hubcaps had the D as you mention. The later hubcaps had a Z emblem in the center. An eBay search for "240Z hubcaps" shows three sets there right now. Most of the original wheels were replaced, often at the dealer before the car was even sold. Slotted "Mag" wheels were popular at the time. The fact that so many of the original wheels and hubcaps were tossed out is what is causing people to pay high prices for originals in good condition.

No, I'm not going to the MSA event. I am, however, planning on going to the Walter Mitty event at Road Atlanta which is the same weekend (two weeks from today, in fact). Unfortunately I only have the pair of lights that are currently on the car so I can't go without for very long and certainly need them for the event. It would work better for me if I sent you a money order, you sent me the lights, and then I sent you mine as soon as yours arrived. That way if there's a delay in the mail I not out of luck for the event. Let me know either here or via PM what you think.

I didn't mean to sound skeptical. In fact, now that you've described them more clearly I think I'd like them. However, I'd also like to make sure that my set is good enough for you in return. If you're interested I can take some pictures and send them to you.

One concern I have is the quality of the lenses themselves (not your work). If mine are nicer than yours I'd be taking a step backwards. If not, the next guy will be. I couldn't really tell from your pictures how they look. As you know, most 240Z tail lights degrade over time, mainly on the left side above the exhaust. The "chrome" plated plastic part tends to get eaten away. I replaced my left side with a used unit that was in better shape than my original but I'd like something even better. I've seen people talking about repro lenses but those don't seem to come with the above-mentioned plastic part.

How are your seats? I noticed a more comfortable ride after redoing my seats with new foam inserts and new seat covers. I'm not convinced that a change in the tires would make a big difference in the ride as there are many other factors that contribute: springs, struts, bushings, etc.

When I was looking for paint and body work I went to the local store that sells automotive paint and asked them for recommendations. They probably know everyone in the business in your area. One point that they made was that you should look around at local cars shows and when you see a nice restoration job ask the owner who did it. Word of mouth is really the way to go. Find someone who's happy with the work that was done for them.

I'm guessing that guy was me at the meeting last week. Welcome to the club. Obviously a lot has been written about this swap and apparently different people have tried motors from both Civics and Preludes. Let me know how it goes because I'll probably do mine at some point.

They should just pull out. I'd try a thin piece of plastic as a wedge to avoid damaging the paint.

The tool in question is not an air tool. When you hit it with a hammer it twists the screw clockwise or counter-clockwise depending on how you set it. I can't remember if I had to use mine on my seats but I bought it at Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00947641000

Is there any chance this will make it onto the TV show and if so, is there a way to figure out the time slot?

I use a remote starter for this. I can't remember where I bought mine but here's a link to a similar product: http://www.iequus.com/item.asp?cid=40&pid=3630

Even if they were completely clogged the float bowls should not overflow because the floats would rise and cut off the supply.