MikeW

The MSA pump is not OEM but is probably good enough. I wouldn't bother with something that wasn't designed for the car unless you're sure it will work. If you went with the electric you'd probably also need to purchase a block off plate for the original which goes for another $12 which makes up the difference in price. My factory service manual lists the mechanical pump at 0.24-0.30kg/cm^2 or 3.41-4.27 PSI. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-3060&Category_Code=SFC02 http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-3066&Category_Code=SFC02

I noticed just recently that VB finally added a few "featured" parts online. Previously you had to just fill in the blanks with part numbers. MSA started online ordering a couple of years ago but are still taking way too long to get everything online. I can't figure out why in the world they both don't just do everything online and save a bunch of money on people answering phones and toll-free numbers. Prices could be updated dynamically and they could have full color pictures of everything they sell. Catalogs are expensive to print. They could answer most questions via e-mail and there would be no waiting to order something.

If you look close enough you'll see the edges. The easiest place is probably on the end of the dash with the door open. You might also consider taking pictures and posting them here in order to get opinions on not only the dash but any other parts that may be worth something.

An uncracked NOS dash will go for upwards of $1500 US on eBay. I'd make absolutely certain that it's truly an uncracked dash and not a well-installed dash cap. It's not that hard to get the dash in and out. I removed mine in just a couple of hours working by myself. Of course, it will take a bit more time than that if you actually bother to carefully label all of the wiring harness connectors and mounting hardware. :stupid: If you do want to transfer the dash to your own car you might find that you need to move all of your wires and gauges to keep things compatible. I wouldn't, however, attempt to remove the dash pad from the frame and transfer just that. There's too much chance of cracking it doing that. The fact is that if it's not cracked now it may be really fragile and close to cracking.

Yes; it's the black plastic elbow shaped duct with an accordion in the middle that's installed on either side of the car up near the radiator. The pull knobs under each end of the dash open a baffle that lets this air come in. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8109

I see them on eBay occasionally. I got a used pair a while back myself. I've never seen aftermarket; it doesn't seem like the demand would be high enough to justify the manufacturing cost.

By longer lines he really means bumpers that stick out a little more (more than '70 to '72 anyhow). If he really wants longer lines he should go for a later 2+2.

With Dave's the connectors are down near the horns at the bottom of the radiator. The wiring from the headlight itself is unchanged. No wire splicing is required. He even provides a plug for the original connector that becomes unused. Everything is cut to the perfect length and can be installed (and uninstalled) very quickly.

The factory service manual as well as all of the 3rd party service books have a wiring diagram. For a 240Z it's only a single page so it's not that complicated compared to most cars. Which wires in particular did you unplug? What makes you think that it's a wiring problem?

It's special in that it has a flat side that properly fits in the slot in the spindle pin. If you can get it pushed out you'll see. If you can't find a proper replacement you may be able to take a bolt that's the equivalent size and grind it to match. My MSA catalog lists the "Lockbolt", P/N 23-4241 at $11.11 US.

It keeps the spindle pin from moving. If you just broke off the nut then the pin itself is still in place and doing its job. Based on the trouble most of us have had getting the spindle pin out you probably have nothing to worry about. You should be able to push the pin up and out and then replace it.

When I replaced all of my locks along with the ignition it took about 30 seconds each to use my dremel tool with a cutoff disk to put a slot in each security screw so that they could be backed out with a flat blade screwdriver. Bypassing the ignition is certainly easy. All you need to do is unplug the connector from the back and plug it into your own ignition assembly which you brought along. The biggest deterrent to a would-be thief is probably the steering column lock.

I don't see how the actually firing order could changed as it's directly tied to the crankshaft compression stroke for a given cylinder. It's quite possible for the engine to run on half the cylinders - usually because of a problems with one of the carbs - but it's not really drivable at that point. In the example given it seems like perhaps 3 6 and 2 are firing at the right time, 1 and 5 are firing 30 degrees too late and 4 is way off. In the first section below I'm attempting to show the proper Intake, Compression, Detonation, Exhaust firing order. Below that is the wrong order. You can see that only 4 is completely wrong. 1-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 5--I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 3---I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 6----I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 2-----I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 4------I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 1-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 5--I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 4------I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 3---I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 6----I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E 2-----I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E-I-C-D-E

Yeah, I guess I need to learn to keep quiet whenever someone asks a 280Z question and let someone like Stephen who actually owns one supply the proper information.

Your 280Z may be different than my 240Z but as I recall it's simply a matter of draining the coolant (there's a drain plug on the bottom), removing the upper and lower hoses, and removing the four bolts that hold it on. I'm not sure what you mean by "replacing" it but your best bet is to simply take the radiator to a local radiator shop and have them fix it right up. I highly doubt that you'd need a new radiator.

I copied these numbers from the official site where they are obviously given in kilometers so I converted them to miles for your benefit. Each line here represents a single day. Some of the short days are actually individual and team time trials but as you can see many of the days would require several hours driving in a car (remember that the route is often narrow twisty mountain roads and small towns) which would be enough to wear me out. The tour lasted from the 2nd to the 24th and there were only two off days. 11.81 112.78 132.04 41.94 113.71 123.65 141.98 143.85 106.25 119.61 107.50 116.20 107.81 137.01 127.69 112.16 148.82 117.44 95.38 34.49 89.79 Total: 2242.53 miles

Exactly. Back when I was riding a lot I found that it was all I could do to briefly hit 30mph. In reality the wind resistance becomes exponential. While I could ride 18 or 19 mph for hours at a time the increase to 20 or 21 was quite noticeable. These guys in the tour end up averaging in the high 20's for hours at a time with lots of steep climbs and they do it for weeks in a row. They are quite clearly the fittest athletes in any sport. There's just no comparison. Looking at the final results I see that the guy who finished in last place, the 155th rider, was a grand total of 4 hours and 20 minutes behind lance. I think it's safe to say that the vast majority of us would lose that much time in a single day on the first long ride of the tour. Another thing to note: if your resting heartbeat is 60 or less you're considered to be in relatively good shape. Lance and other other riders often are under 30.

That was my guess. This may surprise you but I temporarily "borrowed" your engine timing pointer. Mine didn't come back from the engine rebuilders and since it's not a part that would ever go bad I've never seen one for sale. Eddie didn't have one and all of the parts cars at his place were either missing the pointer or had the later style pointer with notches. In any case, I cleaned years of grime off of it and fabricated a new pointer out of aluminum using yours as a guide. The original pointer is steel but perhaps it's galvanized or something. I was afraid that if I tried to make one out of steel sheet metal it would eventually rust. I've been meaning to take yours back and install it but I've been kind of busy. I'll try to do it this week. Do you have an idea of when he'll be done with the work?

Since I'm the one who brought up the missing engine first I think it's important to point out that we really don't know much about it. The original engine might just be nearby but out of the picture. Also, as Alan pointed out, this car would not have an ID plate listing the engine number so it really doesn't matter if it's a "matching numbers" car. Unless someone finds 00001 then this car is obviously the oldest known S30 and as such has a tremendous amount of appeal to a collector. Hopefully Kats will be able to provide us with more detail about this car in the future.

Doesn't the bottom switch have to be to the left?

What color is your car?

Well what do you know. All this talk about a plastic hinge made me go back and actually look at mine. It is plastic. What confused me is that there's a metal frame that covers most of the plastic. I distinctly remembered that part as it's what is used to secure the door to the dash. The plastic part itself is actually the entire inside panel of the door.

No. No body panel from a ZX will fit a Z.

I tested this process recently with a cheap trickle charger that doesn't have any of the fancy settings like yours do. You could probably even use your car battery itself. You could use jumper cables to the project and then hook up the charger to keep the battery charged. Another option would be to use a standard 12-volt power supply. I have no experience with the following products but it came from a Google search and will at least let you know what I'm talking about: http://www.baproducts.com/pyramid.htm Here's something similar from Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F009%5F001%5F005%5F000&product%5Fid=22%2D507

There seems to be a size limit of 1024x768 for images and perhaps a file size limit as well. Lot's of people have mentioned having trouble uploading pictures.