MikeW

Before you go and buy one from VB be aware that a member here was making and selling these a while back. I bought one of his and can vouch for the quality. I don't know if they work with anything other than a 240Z, however. http://new.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14897

In that case I bet they're the same rivets that started this thread. I recall trying the larger interior rivets but those don't fit.

It's a little hard to tell from the picture but are those plastic rivets in the corners?

Not strange. It is a link to this same thread but has the "pp=5" option in the URL that causes it to show only 5 posts per page hence the large number of pages.

Even a new emblem doesn't always look red so I can understand the confusion: http://www.zparts.com/events/wczn20/images/00r08f20.jpg http://www.datsunrestore.com/images/280z_fender_emblem.jpg http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/s30/98811-280ZF.jpg

I've seen advice before about keeping fumes out but I don't quite understand. What fumes are we talking about? I would think that if you've got exhaust fumes in the engine compartment then you've got a bad gasket or manifold.

I have the following book which is essentially a collection of reprints from all of the car magazines, not just R&T: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1855203952/qid=1121880179/sr=1-16/ref=sr_1_16/103-2672197-3888601?v=glance&s=books

Where is the other thread? I can't find it. Edit: never mind. For some reason searching for the text you copied didn't produce the result.

It's a shame that the engine appears to be gone.

The screws go in the rectangular vinyl-covered panel that attaches to the underside of the hatch near the taillights. From what I can tell there are actually two different size screws needed. Six of them (the four corners and the two in the middle) use larger screws that attach to holes directly in the sheet metal. The other four attach to speed nut clips instead and must be smaller for that reason. I just got through attaching mine using sheet metal screws that seem to work but would love to see photographs of the originals - along with what I think are metal grommet rings that the screws all go through. I just bought a variety of these fasteners at the hardware stored and used those that seemed like the best fit.

I notice another auction like this here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=42606&item=4561896277 Is it the same seller? If so, I got kind of burned by this guy on shipping. It took a long time and his claim of "As always there are no handling fees and I'll will find you the lowest price possible on shipping" is not true at all. I've now learned to never buy anything unless the shipping is explicitly stated. He also lists his location as in Michigan but he's really in Canada.

Yes. The engine should turn over fairly easily by hand with the breaker bar, especially if the spark plugs are out.

I would say that if it won't even budge with the breaker bar then don't even bother trying to use the starter as you'll risk doing more damage. I've seen people recommend squirting penetrating fluid in each cylinder and letting it soak in before trying to turn the engine over.

I've used a similar troubleshooting approach. Instead of hooking the meter up at the battery it's much quicker to do it at the fusebox. With everything in the "off" position simply remove each fuse one at a time and bridge the gap in the fuse box with the meter set for current. With everything off there should be no current flowing so any reading at all indicates a drain. I can't remember if the clock gets power through the fusebox so that might be one exception.

It means using the proper tap to make sure the threads are clean. A tap is a tool that allows you to make your own threads in metal. You first drill a hole and then use the appropriate tap to cut new threads into the hole. The tap can also be used to clean out the threads in an existing threaded hole. You can buy a tap and die set with all the appropriate metric sizes. A die is the opposite of a tap. You use it to make or clean threads on the bolt part.

Since he cut it up I'm guessing you'll have to compensate a bit for all the pieces that flaked off over the years. All the holes certainly weigh a good bit less than the surrounding metal.

You can redo the originals yourself for a lot less (new covers, new foam, new webbing). I can't answer the mechanical problem you're having but the mechanism is fairly simple and you could even move the hardware from an otherwise trashed original seat. While I used covers from another source many people feel that these are the closest to original: http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/240_interior.html You'll note that seat covers here are $210 for a pair and the foam is $100 for each seat. $410 plus a few hours of your time is way less than the $1200 that you're looking at.

I was thinking the same thing. They must have done a lot of work to make it look like a 240Z.

Yes, but as I mentioned earlier you need the pockets in the floorboard for the retractors. These first showed up around 9/71 even though the retracting seatbelts came later. Since your car is a '71 you're probably out of luck.

I think that all Z cars came with shoulder belts. You should have the attachment point up high in the quarter window trim panel. If your lap belts are original you can kind of twist the webbing on the male portion of the seat belt latch and you'll notice a hole where the shoulder belt portion attaches. When I bought my car in 1985 there were no seatbelts so I had to add some aftermarket lap belts.

Interesting. I'll have to go look at the original seat covers that I pulled off to see if there is a hole on the side. My car came without the retract mechanisms but was one of the earliest cars to get the pocket in the floorboards to hold the mechanisms. There was even a rubber plug in the unused threaded hole in the pocket since the original seatbelts only needed one bolt there. I have since added the later seatbelts.

Opening them would be easy enough. It's the getting them closed back up that's the problem. I'm thinking you'd need to carefully slice them along the one seam and later try to seal that back up. How was it done originally? From memory it seems like the vinyl is fused together using heat. I'd certainly practice on a disposable pair before attempting this on anything rare.

Yes, that's the metal tab I was referring to. When I recovered my seats I didn't recall seeing a provision for the seat mounted clip. I went ahead a fabricated a clear washer out of plexiglass. What do you think?

Sorry, I didn't even notice that link. That's perfect.

It's a very early Series II 1972 model year built 9/71. Attached is a picture of the clips that I have. I got them a while back from someone else so I can't be sure they're right for my car. From what you and Chris have said it sounds like these do go in the bottom hole that I mentioned. I'd love to see a picture of the clear plastic washer and screw for the other hole.