MikeW

2002; it's really more of a special edition that sold for $9.99 on newsstands. I wouldn't have even known about it had I not been in a bookstore and saw someone flipping through one and saw one of the cars. Sports Illustrated Ulimate Swimsuit 1964-2002 Here are a couple on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=280&item=6966052847&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=280&item=6966147221&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW Each color ad is a full two pages: 1970 1972 1983 1986 1990 2002

Yep. Same picture as from the magazine. As I recall from earlier discussions that one was edited to look like a '70 with the inclusion of hatch vents. Of course, there are a lot of other good shots in there as well. For those of you that missed it: it's the anniversary edition of the swimsuit magazine with all of the best photos. It's kind of a chronological review. All of ads in the magazine are from Nissan and go in the same chronological order as the pictures. On the back cover is the 350Z. My wife thinks it's funny that I would buy the magazine just for that ads. I didn't tell her that wasn't the only reason ...

I agree it would be nice, especially with the non-retracting shoulder belt. Sometimes when I put on my seatbelt before closing the door my arm is not long enough to pull the door.

That looks like the same photo that was used a few years ago in the Sports Illustrated swimsuit edition ad series where all of the Z cars had their own full page ads.

Just ended. Sold for $24,100.00.

Which model number did you order from MSA?

Fair enough. I didn't think of someone starting on a project car and then giving up before finishing. I suppose it's possible to find just about anything for sale for one reason or another. As far as cost goes I would think that a non-rolling shell would be more difficult to move/ship than something that at least has wheels and can be rolled onto a truck/trailer.

I've followed this thread without replying but I can't help myself. I honestly think you'd be better off looking for a whole car and not a mythical shell. Since the unibody of these cars is the most difficult part to "fix" it's highly unlikely that you're going to find just the "shell" in great shape. If the shell was in great shape why would someone bother to remove all of the usable parts? A more likely scenario is that the body has problems and the parts were moved to another car - just like you're trying to do. I think you'll have better luck finding a car that's even drivable and bringing that home with you. You can then pick and choose which parts should be transferred.

I like the idea of custom brackets better than destroying the original gauge housing with a hole saw.

Yes, I meant to say 60 degrees (360 degrees divided by 6 cylinders). Sorry for the confusion. How's it running now? Does the screw fit in the slot?

Unless you're about to sell the car it really doesn't matter. If you do plan on selling anyone interested in buying should be smart enough to look at the VIN and build date and know exactly what they're getting.

This has nothing to do with the three positions on the cam gear. Those are there to compensate for stretch in the timing chain. As Stephen said the problem is with the distributor shaft alignment. A common gear turns the shaft that runs both the distributor and the the oil pump. If this gear is off by one or more teeth you'll have the problem you described. To fix it you have to lower the oil pump, move the gear to the correct position, and reassemble. The other possibility is that your plug wires are off by a position but that would effectively change the timing by 30 degrees.

According to the information posted here, the earliest recorded VIN titled as a '71 is HLS30-06072. I would say that yours was titled in error, but that apparently is done on a state by state basic here in the US. I'd be curious to know why the title wasn't done until '71. That implies that it either sat on a dealer lot for a long time - which is improbable - or that it didn't get imported for a long time. We've heard stories of cars with factory defects taking longer to come off the line but that certainly seems excessive.

I wonder if it's choke related? It may have nothing to do with running on the highway but rather just the fact that the engine gets fully warmed up.

I'd forgotten that I have a Haynes manual that contains a 280Z wiring diagram. It's really hard to see without a magnifying glass but it does show a blue (L) wire that goes to the resistor and then continues on to the negative terminal.

If it's the same as a 240Z then the black/white wire goes to the positive terminal and the black wire goes to the negative side.

Interesting. I'd never heard of R414B so I did a quick Google search and found this: http://www.refrigerants.com/refrigerants.htm Strangely enough, it looks like all of the varieties cost about $1/pound in quantity. I thought that R12 was extremely expensive to keep people from using it.

This got me curious so I had to look it up. Since I'm in software I certainly have my opinions about Bill and avoid shopping at Walmart (there's a nice SuperTarget a few miles from me). At the end of the day today the market capitalization of Walmart was about $226 billion and Microsoft was about $236 billion. Bill's share of MS is $46.5 billion. The top 5 members of the Walton family are worth a combined $90.7 billion. http://finance.yahoo.com/q/cq?d=v1&s=wmt%2c+msft http://www.forbes.com/static/bill2005/rank.html

Perhaps I was confused. I don't recall seeing a writeup on repairing the high/low switch that is part of the turn signal. I assumed you were referring to what I had written up but obviously you weren't. It is still possible that the problem is in the combination switch. If it's starting to flake out the change in current between high and low might be exacerbating things. That doesn't explain, however, why the headlights seem to alternate in this case. For that particular problem, perhaps the low filament is burned out on one side and the high burned out on the other? Maybe there's a break in the high wire to one light and the low wire to the other? Maybe there's nothing at all wrong with the switch.

Look a few posts before yours.

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=brasso

Speaking for F1 engines and high RPMs, here's a really cool video. Note how responsive the engine is: http://www.smele.com/video/

The download works fine for me in Firefox. In IE when I click on the link it complains. However, in IE I can right click and choose "Save target as ..." it downloads only part of the file as you say. I don't think I did anything wrong with the upload. If the system doesn't allow PDFs or spaces in file names, for example, it shouldn't have accepted it. I've edited the first post and changed the PDF to the same file zipped up and it seems to work fine. Let me know if you're still having problems.

... and a while back I wrote up and posted a writeup with directions and pictures showing how to do this. The old attachment, if you can find it, appears to be broken so I've just uploaded it again to the technical articles forum. Here's the new link: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17688

This is an writeup I posted a while back in a regular thread but it should really be here in the articles forum. Edit: changed attachment from pdf to zipped pdf. Repairing 240Z combination.zip