MikeW

You're probably right - provided that your fusebox doesn't melt since you're now pumping about twice the wattage as stock (which is 40 watts on low and 55 on high if I recall correctly). Since installing Dave's upgrade harness I switched the stock 20A headlight fuses to 2A fuses. Seriously, feel how hot your fusebox is getting with these new headlights.

It can also happen at night because artificial lighting is based on 60Hz AC current. Lights actually flicker on and off 60 times a second which is too fast for you to notice because of persistence of vision. However, when something like a wheel is spinning at speed this flicker produces a strobe effect.

I would imagine that the wiring would be easier if you dropped in the engine out of a 350Z at the same time which is what appears to have happened in this particular case.

All you would need is a whole lot of time, money, and experience although you could get by with just a whole lot of money if you prefer to not do the work yourself.

I have heard of people adding a rigid strip along the bottom. I don't know how bad the problem really is as I've never had an opportunity to watch it at high speeds. As far as paint goes, I know that my painter used a flex additive when he spayed the air dam.

I have the urethane version but I've heard people complain that it deforms too much at speed. Screwing up the paint will happen with any air dam. With fiberglass you have to worry about damaging the air dam itself, not just the paint.

I concur with Marty's advice regarding SEM products but I also note that SEM offers a "SEM Soap" and a "Vinyl Prep" which is what they recommend.

Be aware that the stock wiring in a 240Z is barely adequate for the stock headlight wattage. You should definitely consider adding relays to your system if going with higher wattage lights. One of our fellow members made an excellent relay upgrade harness that plugs right in using the existing connectors. No wire cutting is required. It's well worth it. I hope Dave still is making them: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14897

Just turn the wheels all the way in each direction. It's very easy to remove the headlight assembly through the wheel well. It's only three screws per side.

How do you plan on making those fit on a 240Z? They don't appear to be available in the correct bolt pattern or offset.

I've never heard of paint containing lead being used on cars. It was used in houses because the lead in the paint helped prevent mildew and algae but was banned in the late 70's. The emblems should pry up using a wide flat blade. While some people have had success painting the white and black portions of the emblems the "chrome" part is not so easy since it's on plastic (at least for some of the emblems). You can still buy new emblems which may be better in the long run.

That big rear bumper is really shiny. Notice how well the license place reflects in it.

Unless you run into a sharp curb or some other avoidable obstacle most typical flats are caused by picking up a nail and could be fixed with a can of fix-a-flat (hopefully a non-flammable variety). I can see you being worried about the weight of a spare while racing but I don't see what space savings you'll achieve unless you plan on putting something else in the spare tire well.

Unless the 260 is completely different than the 240 it's quite easy to remove the entire center console. Just make sure you've removed all of the screws before pulling it out. Once you've addressed the immediate problem you might consider fabricating a bracket to mount the choke handle mechanism to the transmission tunnel instead of to the plastic console.

Exactly. Without removing that nut and bolt the spindle pin removing tool will do you no good. By the way, sometimes the spindle pin really does slide right out like the FSM leads you to believe. One of mine came right out easily. The other wouldn't even come out using a press. I ended up just getting a used assembly instead of fighting with it.

He posted to the spam thread here just yesterday.

I've looked at Moyer's as well and they certainly look good. I'm a little concerned about shipping an empty tank. Their instructions say to just empty the tank, put it in a plastic trash bag, seal it up with tape, and ship it to them in a cardboard box. The first thing they do when your tank arrives is put it in an oven to remove the gas fumes. I know for a fact that whenever I take a small box to the post office they now have to ask if there's anything hazardous inside. I wonder what the response would be if you said you're shipping the equivalent of a fuel/air explosive? From the USPS hazardous materials sheet: Gasoline (UN1203) is a flammable liquid that normally has a flashpoint of –50° F. Gasoline is nonmailable under any circumstances. I would expect that UPS, FedEx, etc. would have similar requirements.

I've been thinking about doing this myself. Here's some info from the POR-15 web page: <A href=http://www.por15store.com/POR-15-Tank-Sealer.html>Product info</A> <A href=http://www.por15store.com/POR-15-Tank-Sealer-Instructions.html>Instructions</A> <A href=http://www.por15store.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TSS&Category_Code=Specials>Special offer</A> Maybe the pint will do? It says up to 14 gallons ...

When I bought my 240Z 20+ years ago I had no idea there were covers. Only since I joined this group did I find out about them and I got a pair of used covers from Charlie Osborne. It was only then did I see that they were attached by screws and that the screws themselves were still in place in my car. I'd have to guess that many of the covers simply broke off that way. By the way, I wouldn't try the 0.50mm pitch. That will clearly strip the threads. The 3.5mm may work but it would be a really tight fit.

I would agree with your assessment. I went by Ace hardware and it's definitely an M3 but everything they had in M3 was 0.50mm pitch. I came home and realized that I've got a tap and die kit and sure enough the only 3mm diameter in the kit is a 0.60 pitch and it's a perfect match. I went ahead and tapped a hole into a piece of flat bar steel and it's exactly right for the screw. Looking back at McMaster-Carr it appears that the only 0.60 pitch is in 3.5mm diameter.

It looks to me to be : straight thread, pan head, 5mm long, 2mm diameter. McMaster-Carr shows only a 0.4mm pitch in that size but that seems too fine of a pitch. However, that's from attempting to measure it with a ruler. I'll take the screw by Ace and get an exact match and get the size information from that.

I've had good luck finding small metric screws at Ace Hardware. I'll go by there later and see if they have the right size. If not, a good place to find just about any fastener is http://www.mcmaster.com/ As long as you know the size it's very easy to navigate their web page to find exactly what you're looking for.

I was referring to parts that are black even with a non-black interior. The seats, headliner, door panels, sun visors, and hatch plastic trim all match the interior color.

This is obviously also the case for the dashboard, passenger door pull strap, and the plastic seat belt clips. Anything else?

I'd take a pair provided the price is reasonable and the match is good. As long as the total weight is under a pound you can ship anywhere in the US priority mail at the post office for $3.85. I would think that aluminum would be easier to work with but I have no idea how you plan on making them. Isn't it going to be tricky to match the grain?