MikeW

Here's what the '72-'73 version looks like. One problem seems to be that the holes for the tiny screws that hold the cover in place are very close to the edge and they tend to break at that point.

This is a common problem that is apparently worse when you use the aftermarket "Precision" brand kit as opposed to the Nissan OEM seals. Eventually the weatherstrip will compress and the door will be able to close easier. You're just going to have to really slam it for a while.

I think you're getting ahead of yourself here. I'd wait until you get the car before you start worrying about what might be wrong if the first things you try don't work out. I'd be surprised if the teeth were really ground off the flywheel. The starter has a centrifugal Bendix that engages the flywheel teeth only when the starter is spinning. If this is sticking then you'll just hear a high speed spinning sound. It's easy enough to pull the starter off and check all of this out.

For what it's worth I installed a new headliner without removing the pillar vinyl trim. You just have to kind of push the edges in around the perimeter. I think it's safe to say that step 4 must come after 1 and 2 and that 7 has to come after 6. Everything else can be done at any time in any order.

I'm not aware of any changes in taillights for the 240Z between years other than the difference of the so-called "Euro" style amber lenses which should probably be referred to as "non North America" lenses. Typically the left side lens will be in worse shape than the right because of its proximity to the exhaust. That may well explain why yours is darker.

The microdrive that's in my iPod mini uses the compact flash format and has the following specification: Operating: 175 G, Non-operational: 1500 G

If it's a 1978 it's a 280Z. The 280ZX was introduced for the 1979 model year. Do you have pictures? People around here are more likely to be able to help if it really is a 280Z and not a 280ZX.

Often the problem is that they only give you a couple of stations to choose from so there may be crosstalk. The griffin iTrip unit for the iPod allows you to tune it to every possible station so you can find one that's not in use. Here in Atlanta I had to try every single possible station in order to find one that was completely clean. It works very well. http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/itrip/

You can always attach an FM transmitter to your iPod.

I don't know about the pillar vinyl because I simply dyed mine but you can get a pre-cut headliner with the foam already attached from http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html for $54.95 in a variety of colors including the OEM blue.

This is interesting to me for a couple of reasons. In early April, 1970 we have to remember that these cars are at most about six months old. The fact that one is being used as a pace car that early is impressive but not unusual. I'm thinking in terms of races like the Indy 500 where new cars are often used and showcased as pace cars; for instance next month they'll be using a 2005 Corvette which has only been out a few months. The fact that they were racing a couple of 432-R's is actually more impressive to me. If you think about all of the modifications from stock and the fact that many of these changes had to be fabricated by hand is an indication of just how much work had to be done in a rather short amount of time. I'm sure they knew what a winning design they had but surely a lot of testing was involved to verify the mods. I suspect that all racers can relate to that but I'm still amazed by it.

Yes. I bought a complete NOS set of locks with matching keys off of eBay - from a member of this club. They're actually the later 280Z style keys. The grooves are different. Other than the key itself everything is identical and can be replaced very easily. I didn't bother with the break-off theft protection bolts for the ignition lock as it took me just a couple of minutes with a dremel tool to notch the originals enough for them to be backed out with a flat bladed screw driver. You'll presumably need to do the same sort of thing if you intend to pull them yourself at a yard.

Chances are you won't give them the code but rather tell them the year, make, model, and color and they'll look it up in their extensive library of color mixing formulas based on the brand and type of paint you decide to go with.

I'm not sure I understand your question. Nissan, like every other manufacturer, changes colors on new models often. If you're asking about paint suppliers I don't know that Nissan has ever sold paint - except for maybe touch-up paint.

I'm also just guessing but I think that the OEM seals are probably the improved versions that came with the 280Z. It's not uncommon for a Nissan part to supersede another part. I know that the aftermarket kit from Precision is actually a 280Z kit and there are a couple of pieces in the kit that aren't used on a 240Z. The door seals seem to be those that cause people the most problems. Some suggest that the OEM seals are much better for the doors because they're made out of a softer rubber that compresses better.

Sure you can ... ... what's wrong with you? Our cars don't have frames ... they are unibody. Just kidding. I've heard that the magnetic key holders have a tendency to fall off and that thieves know all about them.

It's true that newer keys have a chip in them (actually a high precision resistor). However, as far as I know that style of key only matters in the ignition, not the doors. If all you've done is lock your keys in your car then any old spare will do. Alternatively you could get a car with OnStar which has the ability to remotely unlock your car for you - as long as there's cell phone coverage. Finally, there's BlondeStar: http://www.smartelic.com/

I got the standard vinyl covers from Too Intense. They are very close to original but not exact. The vinyl grain, the seams near the headrest, and the metal vent holes are all slightly different. They do offer many different color choices and since I was interested in changing my entire interior color they were the best option for me as I also got a matching full carpet set and headliner. If I haven't thrown out my original torn up seat covers I can probably take some photos showing the differences if you're interested.

The lugs on my flasher are at right angles as well but it doesn't matter. It doesn't plug into a socket; there are just two wires with female space connectors that attach to the flasher itself.

While I've never attempting anything close to this I'd be curious about what you'll need to do to protect the fuel vent hoses and expansion tank from the welding process. I'm guessing you'll need to remove everything fuel-related first.

If you haven't used it Google's new maps software is awesome. Say goodbye to Mapquest and yahoo maps: http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=los+angeles&daddr=marina+del+rey,ca&hl=en

Perhaps some of those cars should be taken back to the factory for a visit. After all, they haven't been there in 30+ years.

Los Angeles is a big place. You might want to be more specific.

What year is your car?

I hope it was the back end that dropped ... Did anyone see the episode of Mythbusters where they intentionally made this happen into a strategically placed pothole?