MikeW

If you don't already have it get the club parts CD. This contains scans of the original microfiche that was used in the Datsun/Nissan parts department to find parts. Once you have the proper part number it becomes much easier to find those obscure parts. Web sites like nissanparts.cc mentioned above can get anything that's still available through Nissan. If you already have parts numbers and are still running out of luck feel free to post requests here. Often it's possible to find a used part in better shape than the original you're trying to replace. The people with those cars that look like they did on the showroom floor simply put a lot of time and effort and money into tracking down parts.

The needle valve is inside the float bowl. It's attached to the inside of the cover of the bowl. The hoses you're wondering about are attached to the outside of the float bowl cover. The carbs you have were not stock on a US 260Z but rather come from an earlier 240Z.

Those are the float bowl overflow hoses. Normally they go to the stock air cleaner housing which is why yours are loose. The idea is that if the needle valve gets stuck open raw fuel will come pouring out and needs to go somewhere. If it goes into the air cleaner at least some of it will get sucked back into the carbs while the rest will pour out onto the hot exhaust manifold. In your case they look like they might spray it on the air filters. Another solution would be to get longer hoses and run them towards the ground in order to bypass the exhaust manifold. Edit: of course, you really need to get the needle valves unstuck. I didn't actually read your post where you said fuel was coming out. I thought you were just wondering why you have loose hoses.

His profile claims "1978 280z" so who knows. I've never heard of a 200Z and a Google search for 200Z turns up nothing useful. Perhaps it's a 280Z with a transplanted 2.0 liter engine from another car which would make this problem even harder to diagnose.

Ok, that's what I figured but I always call those the turn signals. When I hear parking light I think more about the side marker light. I damaged my left side turn signal years go but was able to get by with just a replacement lens. There's one on eBay right now and it's the right side. First you said right side and then you said left so I'm not sure if the one on eBay will work for you. Hopefully you meant left side of the avatar picture.

Sorry about the bad luck. To be clear even though the air dam got damaged both the left and right turn signals are fine and you need the right side parking lamp which is above the bumper and behind the headlight?

I don't see a "low-flying pelican" in that video.

As I recall it wasn't his Enzo in any case ...

This is the celebrity crash that stands out in my mind:

It doesn't completely take the load off of the headlight switch, it just reduces it from 10A or so down to a fraction of an amp. Think of a relay as a heavy-duty switch that can be flipped on or off with a small electromagnet. It's that small current flow through your normal headlight switch that activates the electromagnet in the relay. That being said there's no way that a cheap, generic headlight harness will be easy to install without butchering up your existing wiring. I once went as far as purchasing some relays and wiring before finding Dave's excellent plug and play harness for my 240Z.

Here's the eBay ad for anyone interested. I find it a bit ironic that someone in the scorching heat of Vegas is looking at a rusted out parts car in Massachusetts for rubber parts while people in salt-infested Massachusetts often look for rust-free body parts in your area. Why not use the real thing

Sorry, I guess "location is Als" was ambiguous. You're right, it's still a long way and requires a ferry. How often do they run? If you're interested, here are the walking directions. Since that route also requires a ferry I think that would be cheating. "Use caution – This route may be missing sidewalks or pedestrian paths."

Arne certainly is. Go ahead and send him the order. "as long as I still don't personally profit from them" indicates to me that you could sell them on eBay provided you just used a "buy it now" price that's the same is what everyone here is paying (possibly plus the cost of doing business on eBay). I realize that eBay can be a hassle but surely that's a wider audience than what you have here. Clearly there are those of us who visit every day but there are others like Jerry who simply wasn't aware of this opportunity. I know you're anxious to make this happen but I'm personally willing to wait as long as it takes rather than have you feel like you have to pull the plug and return payments.

For such a relatively small country I didn't realize it would be that far between two cities and that taking the ferry doesn't really help. I'm happy to see the growing number of enthusiasts in Denmark.

I'm sure you could but it seems strange. Where are you going to find just one? What's really wrong with bad one that can't be fixed?

Yes, but it's not needed for just replacing the head gasket. I have a copy somewhere but it's really about modifying the engine for more performance. http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1255380630&sr=1-1

That was quick. I didn't realize they could do them that fast. I'll be sending mine off at some point. In the past I've resisted because I didn't want the car not drivable for a period of time but the sad reality is that I just haven't driven it in months anyhow.

But not just lugging the engine due to upshifting too soon and dropping the RPMs too much? Does the noise ever go away at higher speeds?

Does the noise occur immediately upon shifting into 5th or after shifting into 5th and releasing the clutch?

Even on the same dyno that's got to be within the margin of error especially if the two different engines weren't run back to back. I've got to think that temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, fuel, etc. all will affect the numbers. Would two runs in a row with the same engine even be that close (0.2 HP)? I suspect that what this really means is that Dave is really good and probably has built a bunch of engines with the same specs that consistently produce that kind of output. It's not like there's a guy at the other end where all the same work was done but the result was only 150HP.

Interesting. I must not have inner fender liners. Even though I bought the car 25 years ago I still occasionally find missing items I never knew I was missing.

You don't need to take out the lights; the bolts are not that far forward. The only reason that you shouldn't be able to find the bolts on the inside is if they're already missing but in that case the ends up the bumper would be free to move up and down. I'd turn the steering wheel all the way to one side or the other and use a light to get a good view instead of trying to feel for them.

Like many people I removed mine (using a heat gun but others have been successful with dry ice), painted the floorboards with POR-15, and then added a layer of insulating material. I used Dynamat but there are plenty of good products out there. I did cover much more area than the original tar mats. The purpose of this material is to add a layer of mass that helps prevent the sheet metal from vibrating and therefore helps reduce sound entering the cabin. Some people have even added mats inside of the doors to make then sound more solid on closing and further reduce noise. On top of the Dynamat I added a layer of heat insulation and then finally the carpet.

Keep in mind that it's possible the previous owner didn't know some of what had been done to the car unless he was the original owner. He may not have known some of the problem spots either - things tend to deteriorate over time without being noticed. Why don't you post some pictures and let the experts here give you an idea of what needs to be done. It may end up being not a big deal.

The "weird rubber thing" may actually be what we call the "tar mat" which is a thick layer of material glued to the floorpans. In Bob's picture you can clearly see the rectangular outlines of these mat sections.