MikeW

On the front right hand side of the engine. On a 240Z it's mechanical, not electric.

I don't know if this is still the case but it used to be that in Florida vehicles were taxed based on how heavy they were. The reasoning here was that heavier vechicles like trucks caused proportionately higher wear and tear on the roads and other infrustructure.

Why are so many people from Georgia replying to this? We have some of the lowest gas taxes in the country and therefore the about the lowest overall prices.

You have to adjust the uni-syn by turning the center wheel thing. This controls how much air flows through the device versus how much air is forced to come through the tiny hole which gets its air through the tube with the red float. As I recall the more the main air hole is blocked the more air comes through the tube and therefore forces the red float up. Keep in mind that the calibration marks really mean nothing. The entire purpose of this tool is to simply get the two carbs balanced. As long as the float is not resting at the bottom or floating all the way to the top you just want to adjust each carb so that the float is in the same relative place. Another key to using it is to not hold it over the carb for very long. You just move the uni-syn into place long enough for the red float to move to a certain position but not long enough for the reduced airflow to have a noticeable effect on the engine.

Hey, don't feel bad. My daily driver is a 1990 240SX (Sylvia as it relates to the rest of this thread) without power windows. A/C is, of course, mandatory here in the Atlanta area.

This got me curious so I did a quick web search: First power windows in a car: 1946 Automotive air conditioning: 1939 http://www.sae.org/sae100/history/timeline/timeline.htm

Be aware that this site is dedicated to the earlier S30 1970-1978 240/260/280Z. The S130 280ZX does share the same basic engine but other than that no parts are interchangeable with the earlier models.

Looks like it went for $305. I guess I need to just start buying this stuff as an investment even if I don't plan to put it on my car.

It's almost certainly oil which, as you know, can range from an almost clear honey color to virtually black depending on how fresh it is. I'd have to guess that the plug simply wasn't in tight enough and that there's not some catastrophic failure in that cylinder.

Typical thread drift. Sonofzzap's 'custom exhaust' supposedly sounds like the Ferrari in "Ferris Bueler's Day Off" which wasn't really a Ferrari but a replica which are commonly used in movies and TV shows with over-dubbed V12 sounds because Ferraris really aren't all that common, even in Italy, just like bike shops aren't on every corner in Italy even though some people seem to think that.

Don't forget Miami Vice with the Daytona Spyder replica on a Corvette platform. It bothered Ferrari enough that they donated a couple of real Testsrossa's for the show to use.

Sorry, I should have looked at your public profile first. I also have a '72 and mine came with dealer installed air. I suspect yours is as well. Mine is a Borg-Warner compressor and is big and heavy and was mounted on a big and heavy bracket over the fuel pump. Even though I removed it many years ago - since it didn't work well and the car wanted to overheat - I kept it for some reason. I really don't think it's worth much and if and when I do put AC back in the car it will probably be a modern and efficient compressor running R134a.

What year is your car? Early models of the 240Z didn't come with AC from the factory so they were installed by the dealers. Once you could get AC from the factory I suspect the number of dealer installations went down considerably.

Sorry, I should have been more specific and didn't mean to imply that something wasn't correct. I was really more interested in the overall configuration. Were the two separate emblems used this way only on the spoiler or were there models with this configuration on the hatch itself? I supposed I answered my own question if this is specific to the ZG assuming that the rear spoiler was always present.

Along with the 240Z ... Alan, can you clarify?

Yep. I've got a couple of old pipe wrenches that the previous owner of my house happened to leave behind. I decided to drill holes in the handles to hang them up on my peg board. The drill went right through one of them. The other wrench - which appears to be much older - now has a very small dent in the handle where I tried and tried to drill. Even with a carbide bit it barely got scratched.

One other thing you could do is post some pictures here (yes, I know it's painful). Extra eyes might spot some damage or extra work that the insurance guy won't. The other issue that you're going to have to deal with is paint. If your old paint was faded a bit then things aren't going to match and you're going to want to get the whole car painted. They're already going to be painting most of it anyhow from what you said so you might as well come up with the extra out of your pocket to get the roof and doors painted at the same time.

Just to so that everyone won't have to stand on their heads I've attached an image containing both the original and a version rotated 180 degrees. It appears to me that the whitish component in the background is part of the turn signal assembly. If that's the case then the original picture on the left is the correct orientation.

I used the urethane model but it's probably about the same. As other have said you just need to take off the 3 existing pieces. I assume from the airdam link that you have an early model 260. You'll need to transfer your turn signals to the airdam. As I recall it's a bit tricky because of the curvature of the turn signal and the angle of the bolts coming out of it. If it's like the urethane version you'll have to drill holes yourself for all of the hardware.

Could be a rusty caliper causing the piston to get stuck. Brakes are the single most important part of the car to have functioning properly. I would have it fixed by a professional if possible.

My wife recently had a minor accident and I first took the car to a local shop to get an estimate. I then went to the insurance estimator knowing what I should expect. His computer was broken that day and he simply took some photos and made a few notes. When he noticed I already had an estimate from somewhere else he asked for a copy of it and when he finally got his estimate a few days later it was actually slightly higher than the first (although virtually identical). This worked out to my advantage because he was able to make sure he didn't miss anything that the other guy found. The estimate is actually a bunch of small things from replacement panels to frame work to emblems to paint to an alignment, etc. They really just go by the book on that stuff. It may be different for an older car that may not be covered in the book but you should at least be informed before you let the insurance guy look at it.

That would be an awful lot of work. Have you looked here? : http://www.toointenserestoration.0catch.com/

It's 1976 280Z

The "clicking" sound is produced by either the flasher unit or by an auxiliary device that the flasher plugs into. Mine is of the second type; see the attached picture. This is a very easy thing to change out. It's up under the dash just to the left of the steering wheel and requires no tools.

Looking at a site that sells wheels, it looks like Honda Accords came with 4x100 from '82 to '89 and 4x114.3 from '90 on. I don't know the accuracy of this but it matches what you're saying: http://customwheelsmarket.com/vx877sil.html